Help for building CRACK with Speedball

i luvmusic 2 · 8114

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #15 on: August 05, 2014, 09:55:47 AM
 Just for the tube heaters i'am thinking to disconnect those heater wires from the Crack transformer to lighten the transformer load maybe it will help to run cooler.In you guys opinion thus this make sense? Thanks!



Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9563
    • Bottlehead
Reply #16 on: August 05, 2014, 10:15:21 AM
The tubes require a specific amount of energy to operate, and no matter where it comes from they will produce the same amount of heat. Unless your heater supply is more efficient you will generate essentially the same amount of heat with an external power supply as you will by using the existing power transformer.


Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline fullheadofnothing

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1487
  • A noble spirit embiggens the smallest man
Reply #17 on: August 05, 2014, 10:17:31 AM
Since you said you haven't finished your base, have you put the supplied feet on your base?

Joshua Harris

I Write the Manuals That Make The Whole World Sing
Kit Packer Emeritus


Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #18 on: August 05, 2014, 10:29:54 AM
 These are my measurements result after my CRACK Build and i do have some concerns some are low and some are a bit high all my resistance readings are spot on except for the RCA Jacks center pin L 86.7K R 95.6K ground lug 0 and the voltage reading are as follows below.
 Does the small amount of over or under voltage over/under the  specified voltage in the manual will make a deference in performance of the CRACK Amp?

Term.1=77.5V
         2=176.1V
         3=0
         4=175.9V
         5=79.5V
         6=0
         7=101.5V
         8=0
         9=104.7V
       10=0
       11=0
       12=0
       13=174.8V
       14=0
       15=195.6V
       20=0
       21=216.6V(it should be 206V)
       
       A1=78.9V(it should be 90V)
       A2=0
       A4=0
       A5=0
       A6=76 (it should be 90V)
       A7=0
       A9=0

       B1=76.5V(it should be 90V)
       B2=174.5V
       B3=101.6V
       B4=78.8V(it should be 90V)
       B5=174.5V
       B6=104.7V
       B7=0
       B8=0
 



Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #19 on: August 05, 2014, 10:32:10 AM
Thank you! all for the replies and yes the base feet are installed.



Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9563
    • Bottlehead
Reply #20 on: August 05, 2014, 10:39:34 AM
From the manual -

Don’t worry if your voltages are not exactly these figures. Line voltage variations and tube tolerance variations can change them by up to 10-15%.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #21 on: August 05, 2014, 10:42:19 AM
Again Thank You!



Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #22 on: August 05, 2014, 11:03:27 AM
 I gotta admit patience will take you along way when it comes to building this KIT or possibly all sort of kits.I've checked and double checked each steps and i still managed to screw up few times i soldered where i should not be soldering and put wires on top where it should be in the bottom terminal,I looked at the manual several times when it comes to installing those Caps and Diodes I have one extra piece of #6 lock washer for the 9 pin socket i could not fit it in place due to the socket i used. It took me 12 hours to build the KIT but in the end all my testing it went really smooth no issue at all or maybe i was lucky.THANK YOU! Bottlehead for the nice manual and a excellent sounding AMP(CRACK)and all the support from all of you here.THANK YOU! ;)



Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #23 on: August 05, 2014, 11:29:30 AM
Here is mine i'am not sure what kind of finish/look i want for the base so many nice looking base to choose from.
https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1164239/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL
(http://)https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1164235/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19395
Reply #24 on: August 05, 2014, 02:09:32 PM
Just for the tube heaters i'am thinking to disconnect those heater wires from the Crack transformer to lighten the transformer load maybe it will help to run cooler.In you guys opinion thus this make sense? Thanks!

The transformer may run a little bit cooler, but otherwise there will be no change.  IIRC, the PT-3 is rated to run with 3.5A of load on the 6.3V winding.  The stock Crack uses about 2.8A of that current.  On the high voltage side, the headroom is substantially higher.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #25 on: August 05, 2014, 02:19:07 PM
Thank You for the info!



Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #26 on: August 08, 2014, 04:26:53 PM
 I need help for the MJE350 for Speedball PCB A&B the picture on the manual is deferent from what i received mine don't have the metallic side so i don't know which is the back or the front on my MJE350.The MJE350 markings are Fg D37 MJE350 and on the other side  there is a mark (A) on left top corner,Can anyone please tell me which side i have to orient the MJE350 on the A and B speedball PCB?Thank You!



Offline i luvmusic 2

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 235
Reply #27 on: August 08, 2014, 04:32:43 PM
Another question about SB PCB A and B D1 and D2 is it connected in series?I soldered the 2 leads in between the two LED together.



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19395
Reply #28 on: August 08, 2014, 04:57:14 PM
I need help for the MJE350 for Speedball PCB A&B the picture on the manual is deferent from what i received mine don't have the metallic side so i don't know which is the back or the front on my MJE350.The MJE350 markings are Fg D37 MJE350 and on the other side  there is a mark (A) on left top corner,Can anyone please tell me which side i have to orient the MJE350 on the A and B speedball PCB?Thank You!

The metal side is the side without writing.  (See the sticky about MJE350's)

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19395
Reply #29 on: August 08, 2014, 04:57:47 PM
Another question about SB PCB A and B D1 and D2 is it connected in series?I soldered the 2 leads in between the two LED together.

D1 and D2 are in series. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man