Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: michael30 on November 10, 2019, 07:32:32 AM
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Hello everyone
I finished the crack and checked the volts.
First of all,one of the LEDs do not light up.
These are the test results:
terminals-
1: 157.6
2: 173.7
3: 0
4: 174.5
5: 86.6
6: 0
7: 159
8: 0
9: 112.2
10: 0
I over checked all the wiring.. looks good.
i'm new so i can't point at the problem.
Ty for help!
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Do you see both sides of the 12AU7 glowing?
Can you very carefully check the voltage on A8?
Generally this is not related to the LED itself, so resist the urge to reflow the solder joints around the LED, as excess heat can damage them.
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Yes, 12U is OK as a ground. Terminals 1 and 7 will fall into line based on the information we find from the voltage measurement at terminal A8.
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A8 Voltage is 18.57.
I deleted the comment before by a mistake.
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That is generally indicative that the LED has been cooked and is no longer working. You can connect a piece of wire between A3 and A8, then in all likelihood you will find that your voltages are proper.
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Ok I did as u said.
Terminal 1 read: 86.6V
Terminal 2 read: 112.6V.
I will order a new led.
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I just found a replacement HLMP-6000 LED in my garage.
it doesn't have banded side like yours.. Can i use it?
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If you can't tell which end is the cathode, it's not a good idea. They also absorb moisture over time, and a garage is pretty humid.
112V is still a little high, what DC voltage do you see at A7?
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If you can't tell which end is the cathode, it's not a good idea. They also absorb moisture over time, and a garage is pretty humid.
112V is still a little high, what DC voltage do you see at A7?
Btw i meant Terminal 7.. but you got me.
anyway i read 0 for A7.
https://postimg.cc/jCSgK6tR
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I would reflow A5 a bit.
Can you list your voltages on terminals 1-10 again as the amp is now?
-PB
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Thank you for fast respond.
The new reads:
1) 85.7
2) 179.4
3) 0
4) 179.4
5) 89
6) 0
7) 111.6
8) 0
9) 114.6
10) 0
Both LEDs glowing. https://i.postimg.cc/wTTy1ZCT/IMG-9761.jpg
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That's a working amp.
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Cool, Thanks!
Can I run it for now with the wire A3-A8 until the new LEDs will arrive?
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You can run it with the wire there forever if you'd like.
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Update Voltages after soldering wire a3-a8.
1) 85
2) 184
3)0
4)184
5) 0
6)0
7)113.5
8)0
9)116
10) 0
after soldering reasults.
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The 0V at terminal 5 looks unlikely based on the other voltages, can you double check?
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after 30 min run.
terminals:
1)86.8
2)174
3)0
4)174
5)89.5
6)0
7)110.4
8)0
9)112.5
10)0
Yesterday i checked it with 235v.. now im at my brother house and i get around 223v from the wall.
Also I think can hear diff in volume between left and right ( left +1 -2). not sure yet.
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Those are working voltages. You can check the Crack FAQ stickied on this board regarding channel imbalance at low levels on the volume pot. It's not abnormal and there's an easy modification to fix that.
-PB
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Hey Paul .
Just wandering... I wasn’t able to touch the chassis because it gets really hot, is that normal for the crack ? I only using 1/10 of the volume right now.. after 2 min I can’t touch it.
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If the voltages in your amp are normal, then the temperature of the top plate is normal (provided you have also installed the rubber feet).
A stock Crack will produce some extra heat in the top plate around where the 3K/10W resistors are and the Speedballed Crack will produce slightly more heat overall under the plate, but less localized.
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Hey there.
After some time with the crack I have a new problem .
Some static noises and chuckles that comes and go...
I tried replace rca + all cables, still there come and go.. also some really low background noise that always there but noting harmful. But the static and chuckle really annoying , what it may be ?
First hours used was dead silent .
Ty Michael .
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This could be an issue of solder joints or potentially interference from nearby electronics. Are you using your computer as a source with the Crack?
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Computer/iPhone
But I did unplug all, left it only connected with my headphones and it didn’t stop.
For now it stopped .
I will update if it will come back . Also I will upload all my solders ..and re solder any points you will tell me.
Thanks again 🙏🏻
Michael.
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Hey.
here is the photos. if something else needed i will update as soon as i see.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AIkd22uIUl4odWHvNJ6TgT_yk-UfVJlj
also i swap the 12au7 to cbs jhy 5814a from 10/1960 , for now looks like those chuckles and noises gone.
anyway i would like to fix any bad soldering.
Ty Michael
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I've found over the years that a lot of times swapping tubes will move solder joints that aren't 100%, which can make it look like an issue is tube related, but it comes back at a later time anyway.
You can also try this mod, which will help with external interference:
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=11676.0 (https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=11676.0)
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Hey.
here is the photos. ...
Hi Michael - you should delete your posting of the Crack manual - I don't think BH treats it as public domain.
cheers, Derek
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Hi Michael - you should delete your posting of the Crack manual - I don't think BH treats it as public domain.
cheers, Derek
My mistake :-[,
fixed.
thanks Michael
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Hi Michael - you should delete your posting of the Crack manual - I don't think BH treats it as public domain.
Yes, whenever it gets posted, we get lots of e-mails for "replacement" power transformers ;)
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Yes, whenever it gets posted, we get lots of e-mails for "replacement" power transformers ;)
I'd sell them for $225 with the option to upgrade to the full base kit for just an additional $90. ;D
cheers, Derek
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I've found over the years that a lot of times swapping tubes will move solder joints that aren't 100%, which can make it look like an issue is tube related, but it comes back at a later time anyway.
You can also try this mod, which will help with external interference:
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=11676.0 (https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=11676.0)
I have sent you an email asking for the speedball guide , . so it’s me. ::)
And from your answer i understand that all the soldering looks good.
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I forwarded your e-mail to the replacement parts address to get you another download.
When in doubt about solder joints, just reheat them all. This is what I do for any kit repair that I get in. Reflowing all the joints in a Crack takes me 10-20 minutes at most.
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I will do it , thank Paul. I have to admit again I've never encountered customer service like yours, maybe it's because of the country I live in, yet, I have to put it to your credit. Thanks and appreciation.
Michael
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I forwarded your e-mail to the replacement parts address to get you another download.
When in doubt about solder joints, just reheat them all. This is what I do for any kit repair that I get in. Reflowing all the joints in a Crack takes me 10-20 minutes at most.
I check my voltages before 2 and 5 is 191v and 7 is 115v.
I rechecked my apartment outlets and it 240.1.
When I solder the power I did it for up to 235.
Do I need to change it? May it damage the amp?
The real problem is that I sometimes use outlets that give out about 228-235
And in my other apartment it’s 240.1 .
What do you think I should do?
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I check my voltages before 2 and 5 is 191v
The manual says 170V +/-10%, so there's no issue there.
7 is 115v.
The manual says 7 can be 90-115V.
Do I need to change it? May it damage the amp?
No.
What do you think I should do?
Nothing... listen to the amp instead of worrying about it.
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After speedball, I’m satisfied, all working well with my cbs jhy 5814A.
The only thing that disappoints me is the stock 12au7 that making so much static and chucking,
I do not know the reason to it... barely used it, and can’t be use now because all of the unbearable noise. At least the cbs I dead quiet.
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Try letting that tube run for 50-100 hours, often times some run in time will resolve issues like that.