Losing power

[shujinko]

Thanks for your help all.  Glad to be back in action.

The reason I set it to DC is because (so far as my newbie self can tell) it says to do so on page 38 of the Crack manual I have.  One of the voltage check steps says "Turn the chassis over and reconnect the negative lead of the volt-ohm meter to the ground bus.  Switch the meter to read DC volts on the 400V or higher scale."  Then it goes on to give a list of terminals with the header "Voltage (VDC unless otherwise specified)."  It says terminal 1 should be 90 VDC, 2 should be 170 VDC, and so on.  That's why when I saw 2.5 VDC on terminal 1 I got worried.

But I'm obviously missing something major (and probably very elementary)!

[Laudanum]

Thanks for your help all.  Glad to be back in action.

The reason I set it to DC is because (so far as my newbie self can tell) it says to do so on page 38 of the Crack manual I have.  One of the voltage check steps says "Turn the chassis over and reconnect the negative lead of the volt-ohm meter to the ground bus.  Switch the meter to read DC volts on the 400V or higher scale."  Then it goes on to give a list of terminals with the header "Voltage (VDC unless otherwise specified)."  It says terminal 1 should be 90 VDC, 2 should be 170 VDC, and so on.  That's why when I saw 2.5 VDC on terminal 1 I got worried.

But I'm obviously missing something major (and probably very elementary)!

Under voltage checks in the manual, all the measurements are for the terminal strips (T)  that are screwed down onto the top plate.  Or, the tube pins (A or B).   It will state "transformer" if directed to measure directly off one of the transformer terminals (which will be AC voltage measurements). 

[shujinko]

Ahhh, that's right.  I saw 11 through 22 and thought the 1 through 10 was the transformer posts right next door.  I forgot about the terminal posts by the tubes because I didn't look closely enough at my chassis labels.  Thanks.

[Laudanum]

My pleasure.