Xiang Sheng Tube DAC-01

Daikini · 10016

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Offline Daikini

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on: October 25, 2013, 10:57:58 AM
I picked one of these up thinking it would be fun and affordable for modding and tube rolling.  It's the same or very similar to some cheap tube dacs sold by Grant Fidelity and Maverick Audio.  And it's less than two hundred bucks.

So far, I have only used the digital coax in and the tube line out.  It also has optical and USB in, as well as a solid state out.

Out of the box, using my cd player as a transport, running the tube line out into my Stereomour, it sounded pretty good.  Given that this is my first dac, so all I have to compare it to is the dac on my Marantz carousel cd player, which I got at the thrift store for ten bucks.  I'm a grad student, so I save where I can.  The xiang sheng was a noticeable (but not huge) improvement over the line out of the Marantz, with more detail and better soundstage.

Of course, I was not content to leave well enough alone.  So I rolled in a Raytheon windmill getter 5670.  It was kinda bright and thin compared to the stock chinese 6n3.  I hoped that this would improve after some burn-in time, but after 30 or 40 hours of play time, it was still about the same.

So being a typical bottlehead, I figured it was time to mess with some caps.  I have been unable to dig up a schematic for this device anywhere on the net.  If anyone knows where to get one, I would be grateful.  So I spent a while following traces on the circuit board, and digging around in the extra cap pile.  I ended up replacing the output caps, which were 3 uf boxy things, WIMA I think, with some Solen 3.9s, and bypassing those with some Auricap 0.22s.   Also, I replaced some 10 uf electrolytics that I think are cathode resistor bypass caps with 10 uf Solens.  Fitting all of this in there was tricky, but doable.  Being totally non-scientific, I did all of this at once, so I can't tell you which change did what.

What a difference it made!  The bright and thin turned into warm but detailed, with more and better bass, wider soundstage, amazing clarity.  I am hearing details I've never heard before on CDs that I thought I knew well.   I would say it was definitely worth the money for the improvement to my modest setup.

One of the opamps is in a socket, so it's the obvious target for further modding.  I don't know what it does, though.  If it runs the solid state output, I don't care to upgrade it, since I don't use that output.  Can I just pull the opamp out, power up the device, and see which ins and outs are still working?  Or will that damage anything?  I've never worked on solid state stuff before.

I would be curious to hear if any of you have any experience modifying or tube rolling with this dac.  Thanks!


David Gray

Empire 208/Jelco 750d/Nagaoka mp300 -> Seduction -> Stereomour ->Klipsch Heresy IIs w/ dual Polk PSW10s
Sony CDP-CX235 -> Schiit OptiModi -> Sex 2.1 -> Madisound BK-12m/Hifiman HE400


Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: October 25, 2013, 12:16:40 PM
Based on the (limited) specs given by the manufacturer, I would guess that the tube is only there as a cathode follower to buffer the unbalanced outputs, and the actual DAC signal is amplified by opamps. 

It's possible that you could yank out the opamp(s) that are amplifying the signal, then feed that into a Reduction with a very low input resistor and no EQ, but it would be nice to have a schematic to help with this.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Mike B

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Reply #2 on: October 25, 2013, 03:08:30 PM
I have been using one for 6 months now.  Sounds good.  I tried a tungsol (high dollar) 5670 and I thought it sounded weak compared to the China tube.

Am getting good results from GE 5670W JAN tube bought cheap off ebay.

Yup for $200 shipped it is an excellent value.

I use the headphone output to drive my plate amp, nice to have the bass volume control right up front.

Far away from the bleeding edge


Offline Daikini

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Reply #3 on: October 28, 2013, 06:39:30 AM
Yeah, after further consideration, I think the tube is probably set up as a cathode follower buffer.  If that's the case, those caps I thought were cathode bypass caps must be something else.  I did a little reading about this circuit, and it seems that the choice of tube should not be as important as the choice of input/output capacitors, as the tube is producing unity gain or less with lots of local feedback.  It should put out almost exactly what's put in, limited by the quality of the dc blocking caps.  However, lots of folks on various forums say that the choice of tube does matter in these circuits. 

I suppose I will have to get out the meter and figure out what is connected to what point by point if I really want to know what's going on in there.

I pulled the socketed opamp, and the tube out still worked, so much for that.   If I decided to put a different opamp in where one is soldered directly to the board, how do I go about getting all 8 connections loose at the same time without destroying the opamp?

David Gray

Empire 208/Jelco 750d/Nagaoka mp300 -> Seduction -> Stereomour ->Klipsch Heresy IIs w/ dual Polk PSW10s
Sony CDP-CX235 -> Schiit OptiModi -> Sex 2.1 -> Madisound BK-12m/Hifiman HE400


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #4 on: October 28, 2013, 07:45:08 AM
Good thinking David!

That would say to me that the Op-Amps are the solid state outputs.  If you post the numbers I might have some suggestions for improvements.



Offline Mike B

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Reply #5 on: October 28, 2013, 10:27:36 AM
It is better to cut the chip out and then desolder the pins one by one.

Who cares about a 50 cent part?

What you don't want to do is damage the board or other parts on the board.

Far away from the bleeding edge