Bottlehead Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Brillo on March 06, 2011, 09:34:25 AM
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The rocker switch on my Eros failed recently. Any issues using this one?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=060-405 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=060-405)
One of the reviewers provided a decent description of how to implement the LED. Any issues I should be aware of before I give this a try? I plan to swap out the switches on my FPIII and Paramounts as well. Seems like melted switches are fairly common, so thought this belonged in the 'general' category. As always, I appreciate the help and insights from folks on the forum.
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Chris,
That looks like the power switch on my Eagle 2C. That one is big. But the dimensions from the link are 3/4" X 1/2". If that is the hole size you are good. The light within needs a neutral and might cause buzz. Wire it up and see. It is easy to remove the wire if it is noisy.
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So, are you saying connect the '-' lug of the switch (for the LED) to the neutral lug on the IEC inlet? I guess I don't follow - remember who you're talking to here.
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Chris,
A normal power switch has power coming in and the switched power going out. But for a light to work in my amp's power switch there had to be a neutral for the light.
This is not the case for the one you linked to. I was wrong about that.
Looking at the switch at Parts Express I think they intend you to wire it to an external 3V DC source for the LED. Hooking it to 120V AC will make it glow very bright for a fraction of a second and never again. Sorry for saying it needed a neutral. I should have caught that the LED is DC only.
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Ah, man. That sucks.
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here this will work--http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/12625-led-indicator-lights-light-red-120v-ac.ht
or this
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http://cgi.ebay.com/RL1-3-Red-Indicate-Light-3-Pin-SPST-Rocker-Switch-New_W0QQitemZ270718365915QQcategoryZ58167QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.tselectronic.com/shop/product/GC-Electronics-Lighted-Miniature-Power-Rocker-Switch/1258
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Ah, man. That sucks.
An LED doesn't draw much current. If you put in an appropriate dropping resistor you might have enough current left over on the input to the three pin regulator to light the LED in your first linked switch. I say before the three pin regulator because it might add some noise and the regulator should filter it out.
PJ would be able to say. He designed this circuit and the transformer. The LED is most likely in the order of 20mA (old LEDs) or less.