What do I need to assemble the base?

sbelyo · 4747

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Offline sbelyo

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on: April 22, 2011, 08:46:44 AM
With 7lbs. of crack headed my way what tools and glue are reccomended to assemble the base?

I don't work well with wood unless everything is pre cut and jointed.  I'm thinking a pair of wood clamps and wood glue is all that is needed.



Offline JC

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Reply #1 on: April 22, 2011, 10:59:54 AM
That's pretty much it.  In fact, it's possible to put the average Bottlehead base together with just the glue and some masking tape.  All the cutting is already done.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 11:02:12 AM by JC »

Jim C.


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #2 on: April 22, 2011, 11:20:52 AM
That is what the instructions suggests, glue and masking tape.  If you are good at lining up the ends, very close, and the top/bottom edges, it will fit perfectly.
« Last Edit: April 29, 2011, 08:26:04 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline Jim R.

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Reply #3 on: April 22, 2011, 04:01:44 PM
Actually, I have all kinds of clamps to choose from but I like the masking tape approach better.  I use a 4-foot long piece of 1" aluminum angle to line all the pieces up along, tape the edges together on what will be the outside, flip the whole thing over, wipe some titebond 3 glue on the faces of the joints, and then just fol it up into a box and tape the last corner.  Has always worked great and I get razor sharp edges.  Be sure to use a damp cloth and wipe all the excess glue off or the finish won't look good where the glue has soaked into the wood.

It's very easy and has always turned out great for me.

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)


Offline sbelyo

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Reply #4 on: April 29, 2011, 04:35:02 AM
Got my crack last night...  Thanks for the hershey kisses!

The masking tape works awesome when assembling this base.  I didn't have a long enough piece of angle iron to line them up, but I figured something else out.

I took one piece and lined it up with the edge of my workbench. 

Put a wood clamp on it to hold it in place. 

Lined up the next piece and put a loose wood clamp on that, them I took an aluminum 24" ruler and held it against the top of the first piece. 

Then I lined up the other piece and tightened the second clamp. 

Then I applied the tape each time making sure to rub the tape surface flat so I got a good seal. 

I just repeated that with each section sliding the piece further down the workbench. 

Then I stood the whole piece up and folded each side into the box just to check.
 
Everything looks straight as an arrow.  Fliped it mitered side up and applied a few thin lines of wood glue to one side only. 

Stood it back on end, folded it into a box and taped the last corner.

For added security I put a wood clamp on each end.






Offline Grainger49

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Reply #5 on: April 29, 2011, 08:28:55 AM
You are on your way.  It is a sickness but a good one.  If you are lucky you have someone to share the love of great music with.

We (the community) will help you spend all your money on tweaks.



Offline sbelyo

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Reply #6 on: April 29, 2011, 08:53:28 AM
I want to paint the top plate and wax the base, but I really want to build this amp just to see if it sounds better than my Van Waarde



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #7 on: April 29, 2011, 09:34:15 AM
You're not going to believe the outcome.  Doc and Paul Joppa are truly talented. 



Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #8 on: April 29, 2011, 10:11:44 AM
You're not going to believe the outcome.  Doc and Paul Joppa are truly talented. 
The Crack is designed by Paul Birkeland, a.k.a. Caucasian Blackplate, a.k.a. PB. Credit where it's due!

Paul Joppa


Offline sbelyo

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Reply #9 on: April 29, 2011, 10:23:04 AM
I can't wait to hear it...  The design looks great



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #10 on: April 29, 2011, 11:18:08 AM
Sorry, I had forgotten.  My apologies to Paul B.  I know he doesn't think it is a slight.

The Crack is designed by Paul Birkeland, a.k.a. Caucasian Blackplate, a.k.a. PB. Credit where it's due!
« Last Edit: April 29, 2011, 11:23:10 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline tubeglow

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Reply #11 on: April 29, 2011, 05:45:21 PM
For the life of me I can't envision what you're describing. I haven't got my Crack yet (awaiting top panels) so I hope there are instructions or when I see the wood it will become apparent. From the pictures I've seen it just looks like a typical 45 degree joint that should be simple to glue together. Am I missing something?

Actually, I have all kinds of clamps to choose from but I like the masking tape approach better.  I use a 4-foot long piece of 1" aluminum angle to line all the pieces up along, tape the edges together on what will be the outside, flip the whole thing over, wipe some titebond 3 glue on the faces of the joints, and then just fol it up into a box and tape the last corner.  Has always worked great and I get razor sharp edges.  Be sure to use a damp cloth and wipe all the excess glue off or the finish won't look good where the glue has soaked into the wood.

It's very easy and has always turned out great for me.

-- Jim




Offline JC

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Reply #12 on: April 29, 2011, 06:07:49 PM
Yes, there are instructions; they are very clear, and this conversation will make a good deal more sense when you see them!

Jim C.


Offline Maxwell_E

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Reply #13 on: April 30, 2011, 03:34:27 AM
The one thing that could really go wrong with the gluing is putting the box together with one of the routed edges upside-down (guilty).

Max Tomlinson
SEX amp, Tode guitar amp