Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Moreplay => Topic started by: aallison0923 on April 02, 2022, 12:14:00 PM
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with my Moreplay build and sure could use some help.
I got to the Power Transformer Secondary Test a week or so ago thinking that everything was going well, but I was wrong.
When I did the initial powerline voltage test, I got 112.1 volts which seemed O.K. I then wired up the power supply for 110-130 volts. Everything went fairly well up to the power switch test which turned out to be me not knowing how to use a dmm properly, but ccmccull got me straightened out in short order...Thanks!
My secondary test gave me results of 0.0 volts for PT 6 and 7, and 0.048 for PT 9 and 10. At that point I went back and checked all of my joints, etc., and nothing seems amiss. Then I decided to do some other checks, so I checked the voltage at the wall socket which turned out to be 123.6 volts. What? I said to my self. I then rechecked L and N. Power switch on gave me 0.052 volts, off gave me 4.42 volts. I then checked with red on L and black on E, and I get 123.6. So, my chassis plate is hot.
I dunno. Any ideas on what I screwed up? I will try and post some pictures.
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What is the AC voltage between 4 and 5 on your power transformer?
Your chassis is not hot BTW.
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0.05 V
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By your own checks, the neutral connection appears to not be making it to the power transformer, so I would check to be sure that black wire is well soldered on both ends and that the wires leaving that terminal and going to the power transformer are also well connected.
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Affirmative. I will reflow all of those connections and see what transpires.
Thanks!
Andy
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You can also put one meter probe on the N terminal on the IEC and measure the resistance between that point and all the wires going to it.
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Check to make sure the fuse is in the right position, one spot is to hold a spare...John
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Thanks John. I checked the fuse and it seems fine and installed correctly.
Paul, I did what you suggested and checked the connections with one probe on N and then went through all the rest of the neutral connections. Resistance was 0.1 on all connections, which matches what I got with your wire in general. I also checked using my continuity function and all seemed well.
I am open to any and all suggestions.
Thanks,
Andy
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How about AC voltage between N on the IEC inlet and each of the wires on the power switch?
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With the black lead clipped to N on the IEC and the power switch in the on position, I get 0.05 AC volts on both the red and black connections at the power switch. With the power switch in the off position I still get 0.05 volts on the neutral, and 6.4 volts on the red connection.
Andy
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In a somewhat unrelated question, can you tell me about the soldering products you're using? Are you using any extra flux?
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This may be a dumb question but are you sure your meter is set to AC volts, not DC
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Debk, there are no dumb questions here, believe me. I have double checked several times, and have a buddy who is a pretty good electrician also check it, and my dmm seems to be working fine in AC volts. It is an auto ranging Fluke 115.
Paul, I am using Cardas quad eutectic solder and some extra SRA flux #135 on most of the connections.
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I would stop using the extra flux. It isn't doing anything helpful and the solder you're using has the correct flux.
If you are unable to get the 120V when your meter probes are on L and N on the IEC power entry module, I would suspect an issue with the power cord itself potentially or maybe an open or flaky neutral in the power outlet. I would grab a three light tester from the hardware just to be sure the outlet is OK. If you have a random IEC power cord sitting around, it wouldn't hurt to try another cord.
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Paul,
I thought the extra rosin might be overkill, but that's my middle name...
I don't have a three bulb tester handy, but I do have a couple of extra power cords. First I tested the cord supplied with the kit (with the probes simply stuck in the ends) at three or four different outlets on different circuits and it gave basically the same reading at all of them. I then took the amp to a different outlet and got the same readings as before. I then switched out cords (known cords that do work for sure) and I got no voltage at all, 0.0 volts AC., through either cord. They seemed to seat properly (actually better than the original), but no juice for some reason.
Thanks for working with me on this,
Andy
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I suspect there's something going on outside the Moreplay. I would go grab a three bulb tester and check your outlet.
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Use your ohmmeter. Install the (unplugged from the wall!) power cord in the IEC socket. Measure resistance for continuity from the hot blade of the power cord plug ( the pin at the wall end of the cord) to the L terminal on the IEC, the neutral blade of the plug to the N terminal on the IEC inlet and the ground pin on the plug to the E terminal on the IEC inlet. If something is reading open pull the cord out of the IEC inlet and measure from the cord side terminals of the IEC inlet to the corresponding underside terminal. If all reads good thru the IEC from one side to the other but not good thru the cord plugged into in the inlet the pins in the IEC inlet may be tilted out of contact with the cord contacts - possibly from excess flux or overheating the plastic.
That's about all I got, it's a pretty straight forward electrical path
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Paul - I acquired a three bulb tester today and all of my outlets are testing correct.
Doc B - I will proceed with your advice and we will see what happens.
Thanks,
Andy
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Doc/Paul
From what I can tell after testing the cord and IEC module, the negative is open. I think I need a new IEC module, and will be getting ahold of your parts department.
Thanks for working with me on this,
Andy