Incorrect voltages after installing Speedball [resolved]

Adelz · 8361

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Offline Adelz

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Reply #60 on: May 29, 2015, 11:28:35 AM
Thanks so much. Oddly it's kind of a relief to me that the transistors are most likely the problem, I'm glad that the problem isn't something else in my amp because as I've said, I'm at a loss after all this resoldering. Thanks for all your help thus far!



Offline Adelz

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Reply #61 on: May 29, 2015, 10:16:33 PM
Just wanted to double check - is it fine to use the Crack with only the large PCB and the 22.1k resistors in place of the small PCBs for extended periods? Just want to be sure that having half of the Speedball upgrade installed until the authentic transistors ship out will be okay.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #62 on: May 30, 2015, 08:56:20 AM
Yeah, no problems there!

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ash

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Reply #63 on: May 30, 2015, 04:21:59 PM
Quote
I did some testing this morning, and it looks like some counterfeit transistors made their way into our inventory.  We will be shipping out replacements when we receive a replacement batch shortly.

Just wanted to add a second case. I have exactly the symptoms described by the OP and have gone through the same exercise and have isolated the issue to the two small PCBs. Currently back to the 22.1k loads and the large PCB. Not sure if it's placebo, but with just the large PCB I can already hear a significant improvement in the sound (on HD 650). There is far less veiling and the sound is brighter. The mids are singing, although were great, now the highs are almost as clear as the mids. Bass is deeper. There is only an ever so slightest background noise at max volume.


Details:
Ordered on the 14th of April, shipped May 14th. The vanilla Crack worked on first power without a hitch (thanks for a fantastic product and an amazing guide). The sound was actually better than I was expecting (first Tube amp, was expecting higher harmonic distortion, background noise, and rolled-off highs... none was true).

After upgrading to the Speedball, I had an annoying buzzing without having a source (on connecting a source does play the music, but the buzzing is very audible throughout). All voltages were within range (<10% of the ratings). LEDs all light up as expected (after a few seconds, the 2 on the 9pin socket and those on the small PCB light up rather quickly, then slowly the ones on the large PCB come to life and are brighter than all the others). The buzzing sounds like 120hz and it's loud even on lowest volume. It actually goes quieter when I turn the volume knob (but never acceptably quiet,) until I hit past two thirds, then it's loud again. I resoldered all joints, no help. Quadruple checked the circuits, all look good. The warm-up DC on the jack climbs past 20 and hits high 30s. Without Speedball it never crossed 15V.

The buzzing is worse where there is WiFi. Away from WiFi source and simply moving my hand around the small PCBs make the buzzing volume changes significantly. Furthermore, touching the chassis or the pot changes the buzzing as well (touching the RCA changes nothing). Clearly the small PCBs are picking (and amplifying) RF, or at least the buzzing is modulated by RF. I can't verify the authenticity of the 2907, but I'll mention that their package sizes are different (one is shorter than the other).

After removing the small PCBs and resoldering the 22.1k loads, the background is very quiet, no buzzing or other noise.

Please let me know what I need to do to get replacement parts or other remedy to fix the issue. Although I'm very satisfied with what I have now, I'd like to get the full shebang.

Thanks again for a remarkable product!



Offline Adelz

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Reply #64 on: May 30, 2015, 06:13:14 PM
Glad to hear that it seems to be the transistors causing the problem. Bottlehead's replacement parts service sent out an email announcement and said that the replacement transistors will be shipping out sometime next week.



Offline ash

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Reply #65 on: May 31, 2015, 03:28:12 AM
Hadn't noticed the mail. Thanks for the hint.



Offline Adelz

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Reply #66 on: June 13, 2015, 01:34:08 PM
I installed the iffy board on the standoff nearest the headphone jack. Regardless of the side it's on the two LEDs do not light up (plus one of the two in the 9 pin socket). All voltages are normal except for zero at Terminal 1 and 50 at Terminal 7.
 
 
I just received my replacement transistors and installed them on the small boards. The LEDs on the board mentioned in the quote above still do not light up. I switched the 2907 transistors between the two small boards and both the transistors work correctly on the functional board, so there must be a different problem with the faulty board. I also switched the positions of the boards in the amp  and that made no difference; on either side one of the boards did not light up and the other did. Many of the voltage readings are also off. Terminal 1 = 0, Terminal 5 = 142, Terminal 7 = 49, Terminal 9 = 142 (measurements taken with the faulty board near the headphone jack and the functional board near the pot; readings not listed are normal). Where should I go from here?



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #67 on: June 13, 2015, 08:57:56 PM
 
I also switched the positions of the boards in the amp  and that made no difference; on either side one of the boards did not light up and the other did.
Did the bad board/voltage switch sides (board problem), or not (wiring problem)?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Adelz

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Reply #68 on: June 14, 2015, 06:10:47 PM
Yeah, the problematic voltages shifted sides with the faulty board and the functional board works on both sides, so I don't think it's a wiring problem.



Offline Strikkflypilot

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Reply #69 on: June 14, 2015, 07:55:21 PM
Now, what happens if You turn the big board around 180 degrees and leave the small boards put?

Home system:
Sources: Ibasso DX90, Google Chromecast Audio optical out
DAC: Schiit Gumby
Amp: Bottlehead Mainline
http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=7463.0
Phones: HD800S

Office:
Sources: Iphone/ Ipod
DAC: Dragonfly Red+Jtrbug
Amp: Crack/Speedball heavily modded
Phones: HD580,HD600 grilles


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #70 on: June 15, 2015, 07:11:30 AM
Yeah, the problematic voltages shifted sides with the faulty board and the functional board works on both sides, so I don't think it's a wiring problem.
That would mean it's a board problem.

If you e-mail [email protected], we can put together a parts kit to replace that board.  Please provide your name, kit, parts desired, and shipping address.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Adelz

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Reply #71 on: June 15, 2015, 04:06:30 PM
Okay, thanks. I want to test everything one last time. Unfortunately I'm pretty busy right now so I'll email for replacement parts in a few days.