Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Legacy Kit Products => Stereomour => Topic started by: shelby1420 on March 02, 2012, 04:38:46 PM
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Hey guys, for 65% of my vinyl I love the way my Stereomouur + Eros sound, however the other 35% sound like ass, looking to add some tone controls to my Stereomour........... will this work and if so How???? http://www.tubedepot.com/diy-k-tl.html
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Anyone, pretty please??................................
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Rick,
Looking at the "specs" it requires some high voltage and heater voltage from your amplifier. I don't know that the Stereomour has that much to spare as it is sized for the 2A3 and the driver tube.
Someone more familiar with the transformer will have to speak up.
Conceptually, this is what you want.
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I wouldn't know anything on this for sure, so I will pose this as a question. Wouldn't an equalizer in between the pre and the steromour be a whole lot easier, or are you not using a preamp?
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I wouldn't know anything on this for sure, so I will pose this as a question. Wouldn't an equalizer in between the pre and the steromour be a whole lot easier, or are you not using a preamp?
Also thinking of this option as well......... not sure if I can though, never used an EQ before...........
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Rick,
Looking at the "specs" it requires some high voltage and heater voltage from your amplifier. I don't know that the Stereomour has that much to spare as it is sized for the 2A3 and the driver tube.
Someone more familiar with the transformer will have to speak up.
Conceptually, this is what you want.
Hey Grainger, this is exactly what worried me about the idea...............
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Hey Rick -
What sort of sound are you looking for that you dont have, or possibly what is it that you have that you dont want?
What I'm thinking is that there may be a better way than a tone control.
Eric
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I'm on vacation but just spotted this. I can't see any specs for what power is needed, so there's no way to guess whether Stereomour can spare that much power.
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Hey Paul, enjoy your vacation!!!! Here are a few specs, not sure if its enough or not??
Here is a Stereo Tube Tone Control Kit that is easy to build, and is just fun! The Tube Tone Control utilizes a 5670 triode. TheTone Control is compatible with all "L" Series Amplifiers, it gets its B+ and filament voltage from the Amplifier board and can give a cut or boost of greater than 20 db. One control adjusts the bass for both channels and the other control adjusts the treble also for both channels
The TL Stereo Tube Tone Control comes in kit form (K-TL). The kit comes complete with all the resistors, capacitors, tube, circuit board, and necessary hardware for mounting on a "bread board" (not provided) which is compatible with the amp you purchase or have previously purchased.
Model TL Stereo Tube Tone Control
Specifications:
Input Impedance = 100k ohms
Frequency Response = 20 to 20,000 Hz
Input output connections = Jumpers to Amplifier PC Board
Overall gain (pots at 50%) = 10 to 30 db - set by a resistor
Two channel
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The spec needed is the operating point of the tube - plate voltage and current. Without that it's not possible to say if there is enough extra power available.
I just looked at the online manual for the Champ amp kit they sell. Very well done, and pretty obvious they looked long and hard at our manuals, even copying and pasting a line or two.
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Judging by the schematics one may find when Googling "S-5 K-8LS tube amp" (I don't want to post any links here, as the schematics are surely copyrighted), the B+ coming off the rectifier bridge and r/c filter looks to be 245V, if that helps any. Not exactly sure how much current the little board would draw for the B+ (8.2mA at 150V is a suggested operating point by the 5670 tube data sheet for class-A use), and how much the Stereomour has in reserve, however.
Perhaps the OP could build in some passive controls with maybe a higher-gain input tube on the Steremour than the 5670?
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I have just emailed the Tube Depot with questions posed by Dan in regards to the operating point of the tube - plate voltage and current. and will report back as to findings, thanks for the info guys!!!!
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They might just say that the circuit is designed to go in their product, not ours.
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They might just say that the circuit is designed to go in their product, not ours.
Hah!!!!! That is exactly what they said, seemed like BS to me but hey, what do I know, almost worth buying to test and see!!!!
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To add to the smoke, there were questions about equalizers. A tone control acts over a much, much wider frequency band than the typical equalizer. Even the most rudimentary five band equalizer acts much different than a tone control.
I feel your pain but I kind of knew you were going to end up here. The answer I see is to build a dedicated power supply for the tone controls and put them before your preamplifier.
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To add to the smoke, there were questions about equalizers. A tone control acts over a much, much wider frequency band than the typical equalizer. Even the most rudimentary five band equalizer acts much different than a tone control.
I feel your pain but I kind of knew you were going to end up here. The answer I see is to build a dedicated power supply for the tone controls and put them before your preamplifier.
MERDE!!!!!
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Hmmmmmmm, what about some type of cut of the upper frequencies, maybe with a low value cap or something on the input, does that make any sense???? Something I could put a switch to bypass or engage depending on the recording...........
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Rick - I think what people are trying to say is that the best approach is to try to keep it simple. Your overabundance of 'highs' may be best attacked first from the speaker end. Not sure what you have. I have serious reservations about how most crossovers are put together. Good caps make a huge difference in sound. If yours speakers are not up to snuff, I would replace them or build some from the ground up. Then you know what you are hearing and can fine tune IMHO.
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Rick - I think what people are trying to say is that the best approach is to try to keep it simple. Your overabundance of 'highs' may be best attacked first from the speaker end. Not sure what you have. I have serious reservations about how most crossovers are put together. Good caps make a huge difference in sound. If yours speakers are not up to snuff, I would replace them or build some from the ground up. Then you know what you are hearing and can fine tune IMHO.
Hi there, I understand your point, however, its not the system that I have issues with-- its a few bad recordings I would like to make listenable........... My system consists of the Stereomour with Solen teflon caps in the coupling position and Mundorf Silver Gold and Oil in the output position, Cornscala's with Mundorf Mcaps in the crossovers ( love these speakers!!!) And the Eros with Mundorf Silver Gold and Oil in the output position. Love the entire system, best it has ever sounded, its poor recordings I am trying to work around.................. so what I was thinking was some type of rolloff doohicky that I can bypass for 70-75% of my recordings because they sound brilliant but engage if I so desire for the 20-25% of crappy less then stellar recordings....................
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Digitize the problem recordings then tweak them with logic or whatever audio software you use. this seems a much better approach than to degrade your system by adding a tone control.
Ralph
Taos
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Digitize the problem recordings then tweak them with logic or whatever audio software you use. this seems a much better approach than to degrade your system by adding a tone control.
Ralph
Taos
Hey Ralph, I don't have a cd player yet alone software to tweak, vinyl only.............
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Rick,
I think you are on the right track with a low pass filter to take out those offending highs as you posted above. An RC network that can be cut in and out would work.
The formula is 1/2(Pi)RC; this formula gives the 3dB down point of the filter. You take a capacitor and pot to ground. This shunts high frequencies to ground. The pot should have the center lug (wiper) soldered to one or the other lug. This makes it a variable resistor, from zero to the full value of the pot.
Does this make sense? If not I can explain better.
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Rick,
I think you are on the right track with a low pass filter to take out those offending highs as you posted above. An RC network that can be cut in and out would work.
The formula is 1/2(Pi)RC; this formula gives the 3dB down point of the filter. You take a capacitor and pot to ground. This shunts high frequencies to ground. The pot should have the center lug (wiper) soldered to one or the other lug. This makes it a variable resistor, from zero to the full value of the pot.
Does this make sense? If not I can explain better.
Yahoo!!!!! This is exactly what I am looking for Grainger, something that is easily bypassed except for those really bad pressings!!!! Gotta go pick up the kids but would love to pick your brain later if I could, thanks !!!!
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Rick,
I think you are on the right track with a low pass filter to take out those offending highs as you posted above. An RC network that can be cut in and out would work.
The formula is 1/2(Pi)RC; this formula gives the 3dB down point of the filter. You take a capacitor and pot to ground. This shunts high frequencies to ground. The pot should have the center lug (wiper) soldered to one or the other lug. This makes it a variable resistor, from zero to the full value of the pot.
Does this make sense? If not I can explain better.
Yahoo!!!!! This is exactly what I am looking for Grainger, something that is easily bypassed except for those really bad pressings!!!! Gotta go pick up the kids but would love to pick your brain later if I could, thanks !!!!
Hey Grainger, was just yakkin with a buddy of mine who says his Fender amp uses a pott that tuns off ( disengaged) and then turns on, I could use this , ya??
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If I understand you correctly, that would do. Even better if it is a stereo pot to control both channels at the same time.
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Hi there, I understand your point, however, its not the system that I have issues with-- its a few bad recordings I would like to make listenable........... My system consists of the Stereomour with Solen teflon caps in the coupling position and Mundorf Silver Gold and Oil in the output position, Cornscala's with Mundorf Mcaps in the crossovers ( love these speakers!!!) And the Eros with Mundorf Silver Gold and Oil in the output position. Love the entire system, best it has ever sounded, its poor recordings I am trying to work around.................. so what I was thinking was some type of rolloff doohicky that I can bypass for 70-75% of my recordings because they sound brilliant but engage if I so desire for the 20-25% of crappy less then stellar recordings....................
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Ok, now I'm getting it! Sorry, I didnt know the specifics..Ok - crappy recordings - I can relate on that issue. Much of rock is crappy. Much of my FAVORITE rock is crappy. Here has been my solution from my system standpoint. I have upsampled my redbook to 24/96 using Sox with min. phase filter. This has solved much of the 'crappy recording' digititis. I like redbook as much as native 24/96 when it is upsampled with Sox using min. phase. Sorry, but other upsamplers need not apply. I havent tried Weiss Saracon 1.6 because it costs $1500. Still, better recordings sound better! At least the crappy recordings are enjoyable, and very listenable. Sometimes the remasters are better (Beatles, Floyd, Yes, Rush, etc.). I appreciate your efforts in your hobby. I can also appreciate your frustrations!
P.S. - love the Mundorfs!
Eric
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oops! - Sorry again Rick - Just realized you're a vinyl guy. My bad.
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oops! - Sorry again Rick - Just realized you're a vinyl guy. My bad.
Hey, no worries, I really appreciate all the input guys!!!
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It may be possible to make a passive tone control, perhaps with a limited boost capability to maintain enough ain. With the Eros, you probably have ore than enough gain and can spare some for the tone controls. I'll look into it when I am back - you might need to remind me though ... :^)
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Awesome Paul, thanks!!! And , will do!!!
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Hey could this work, found this and others on AES..............
Pot - Original Fender Tone Control for MOST Fender Tele/Strat
250K ohm. Original TBX tone control for most Strats and Teles. CTS manufactured, includes capacitor and comes in original Fender