Identifying Supplied Parts

[JosephDuffy]

Hi everyone,

After a couple of shipping issues, my kit finally arrived today! However, I'm struggling to identify a couple of the parts and wanted to make sure I'm putting the correct parts in. Most parts I've managed to figure out via their quantities/general knowledge/Google, but I'm stuck on a couple:

4x #8-32 x 1-1/4" Screws - Are these the longer screws, about 1.75" in length? I thought they'd be 1.25", but they aren't and the only other set of 4 screws appear to be the 6-32 x 3/8" Screws. These, however, appear to be the correct length.

4x #8 fiber shoulder washers - I seemed to get 8 of these since I have 8 of both the should washers, and I'm assuming the #8 are to be bigger than the #6.

4x #8 star lockwasher - I have 4 "inner" lockwashers and 4 "outer" lockwashers. Picture of the 2 sets of 4 next to each other

2x [#6 and #8] solder tabs - I can tell what the solder tabs are, but all 4 seem to be the same size? Picture of all 4 solder tabs

3x [#6 and #8 round] lockwashers - Again, I have 6 lockwashers, but I cannot see a size difference between them. Picture of the 6 lockwashers I have

Finally, whilst putting the binding posts in, I found that I have some washers/lockerwashers left. They seemed to go with 3 gold washers then 2 black lockwashers, then 2 nuts. However, when put back on, they only have 1 gold washer then 2 nuts. Is this the correct outcome?

[fullheadofnothing]

Yes, the long screws are the long screws. I never noticed the typo on the parts list page, they're called out correctly as 1 3/4" when used in the manual (p.14)

Yes, #8 shoulders are bigger than #6 shoulders. I was probably distracted when packing your bag and threw in some extra #8 shoulders. Sell 'em on eBay for HUGE BUCKS!!!

Another term for star lockwashers is external tooth lockwashers.

If you can't tell the size difference between #6 and #8 hardware, try sticking a #8 screw through them. It'll pass through an 8, but not a 6.

As long as your binding posts are secure, you should be fine. Don't overtighten though, you can break them.

[JosephDuffy]

Yes, the long screws are the long screws. I never noticed the typo on the parts list page, they're called out correctly as 1 3/4" when used in the manual (p.14)

Yes, #8 shoulders are bigger than #6 shoulders. I was probably distracted when packing your bag and threw in some extra #8 shoulders. Sell 'em on eBay for HUGE BUCKS!!!

Another term for star lockwashers is external tooth lockwashers.

If you can't tell the size difference between #6 and #8 hardware, try sticking a #8 screw through them. It'll pass through an 8, but not a 6.

As long as your binding posts are secure, you should be fine. Don't overtighten though, you can break them.

Thank you for the generous donation of shoulder washers! I've managed to figure out the solder tabs, so thanks for that.

My current issue is still the #8 star lockwashers, for which I seem to have 2 sets of 4, one external tooth and one internal tooth, and then 6 (round) lockwashers, which I can't get my #8 screws to go through. Is it possible that the actual 4 "start lockwashers" are the external tooth lockwashers, the other 4 lockwashers in the picture are the #8 lockwashers (that there should be 3 of) and that the other 6 lockwashers I have (that all seem to be #6) are the #6 lockwashers, and I accidentally received 6, rather than 3?

Thanks for the help! Any idea about the binding posts, too?

[Paul Birkeland]

External tooth lockwashers are star lockwashers.  These things have quite a tendency  to stick together, so having a few extras isn't too abnormal.

A lot of this gets covered pretty well in the manual, as the hardware mounting steps are loaded with photos.

-PB

[mcandmar]

I sorted through my kit this evening and this thread is still too confusing to follow

I sorting mine by reading through the assembly manual / process of elimination and ended up with 3-4 locking washers left over. Same with the binding posts, came with two washers, two lock washers, two nuts, but manual says to use one washer and two nuts.  You get more than you need basically, so as long as your not short dont worry about it.

[Doc B.]

If you build it like the pictures and you have extra parts left, well, you just have extra parts left.

[JosephDuffy]

Thanks for the replies guys. Really reassuring! It's my first big build so I'm just being over cautious.

Can anyone recommend any RCA cables or a power cable (for the UK)? Seems like the last step.

Again, thanks for all the help everyone. Such a great community!

Edit: I'm on the power transformer part, but my power transformer seems to be bigger on one side (a visible "bump" along the right side when viewed from both the top and bottom sides. Obviously the "bump" is on the left of the bottom side.) This is (I think) preventing me from being able to add the final nut. I can put the nut on without the #8 solder tab, but not with it on. Any ideas?

[mcandmar]

I just built my own RCA cables using these  -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QED-Reference-Audio-cable-3m-off-cut-/380768374513?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item58a7904ef1  cable specs here http://www.qed.co.uk/audio_interconnects/xlr/reference_audio_40.html

Ready made the cables retail for ~

[JosephDuffy]

I just built my own RCA cables using these  -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QED-Reference-Audio-cable-3m-off-cut-/380768374513?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item58a7904ef1  cable specs here http://www.qed.co.uk/audio_interconnects/xlr/reference_audio_40.html

Ready made the cables retail for ~

[Paul Birkeland]

Do you have the black fiber washers in place so that the shouldered part is centering the washer in the hole through the chassis plate?

[JosephDuffy]

Do you have the black fiber washers in place so that the shouldered part is centering the washer in the hole through the chassis plate?

I made sure to put the fiber shoulder washers in the holes in the chassis plate with the shouldered part going in to the hole. A couple of them needed swapping around to help them fit in to the hole, bit I got the shoulder in to the holes in the end

Edit: After looking at it more, it look like it's got excess glue on it. If this were the case, would a knife/nail file be suitable to help get this down enough?

[Paul Birkeland]

The Nylon transformer washers will negate most of the effects of the glue.  If you need to scrape a little off, you can do it carefully with a hobby knife, or screws that are slightly longer are an option as well.

-PB

[mcandmar]

Whoever made these transformers likes their gluey stuff. I spent an hour or two sanding it off in prep for paint as there was a large run on the outside of the transformer that looked unpleasant. At least on yours it cant be seen so just sand it flat.

[JosephDuffy]

Whoever made these transformers likes their gluey stuff. I spent an hour or two sanding it off in prep for paint as there was a large run on the outside of the transformer that looked unpleasant. At least on yours it cant be seen so just sand it flat.

I've got it down a bit but it also looks like the transformer has one of the metal layers (the one with the corder I'm working on) is slightly lifted, compared to the others.

I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?

The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do

[Paul Birkeland]

I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?

The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do

Yeah, I wouldn't remove the lamination.