Bottlehead Kits > Reduction

a few LED's no longer light up [solved]

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wesleyHK:
 :( 

i finished assembling the reduction yesterday.  the resistance readings tested well except for terminal #31, which did have a reading.  someone here said that  there should be a reading like terminal #2, which means it should be a "*" instead of "OL", which i assume is correct.

i am in hong kong and the voltage at my house is 222V, a bit lower than what my 240v transformer should be getting, so the readings were around 10v lower than what is stated on the manual.  other than that, all the voltage tested correct.

all LED's lit up as they should.

i then listened for around a half an hour, then i got this big cracking sound in the right channel and immediately turned off the system.  i found that the LED was out at A3.  i then resoldered the lead at the tube base center and it was up and running again with no problem.  then i proceeded to do the shunt regulator upgrade in the integration kit.  got the board all nicely soldered up, then put into place, all LED's lit up and the voltage checked out good.  then hooked it up and listened for around 10 minutes and the same crackling distorted sound came back.  then checked under the amp and saw that both LED's in the A socket are no longer lit and also the shunt regulator board's LED at 1A side, D1 no longer lit.  can LED's burn out?  or is there a fault that is causing them to go out?

i was planning on going to the next step of installing the C4S boards when i get this problem solved, but my kit was short 2 pcs. of the 237 ohm resistors, which i have to ask eileen for once i figure out this problem.

if anybody has any ideas of the cause of my problem, i would greatly appreciate it.

regards,

wesley

p.s.  i just reviewed my notes and saw that terminal #2 was 103.3v, so it was a bit high?  what would cause that?

Paul Birkeland:
Hello Wesley,

Please remove the shunt regulator power supply board and return the Reduction to stock form for now.

It's very difficult to debug your kit when it was never quite working properly from the onset.

Also, no, the LED's won't burn out in any of our lifetimes, but when one goes out, the voltages will be off.

Once you have the amp back to original form, please post the voltage discrepancies that you find. 

wesleyHK:
hi paul,

o.k., everything back to stock form.

i double checked the resistances and they were all fine.

as for the voltages, most notable are no. 2 and no. 6 terminals.  all others are fine, but a bit low.  all the voltages were higher when i first finished the amp, before playing and getting the cracking sound.

for your info, the input voltage was 225.2V this morning.

2  44.9
4  134.5
6  -0.2
7  68.7
13  68.0
14  68.1
15  68.5
18  69.5
19  69.0
20  68.2
26  69.4
29  133.9
31  67.3
33  6.0
37  6.0
38  9.8
39  4.1
41  4.1
42  9.7
44  165.3
50  149.3
51  149.1
52  165.4
53  165.3
56  133.4
57  133.4
59  149.4
60  149.4

thank you and i look forward to your reply.

regards,

wesley

Paul Birkeland:
6 is supposed to be 0V.  0.2V is close enough.

Does the voltage at 2 change if you swap the tubes?

wesleyHK:
after the tube swap it's 47.6V.

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