Bottlehead Kits > Quicksand

It's in!

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ALL212:
Wow!  Very nice components.  Nichicon caps all around!

1 question - can I use 3300uf caps in place of the 2200's?  I've got some extra's I'd like to use.

And if I were to replace some electrolytics with film - where can I do the most good?

Thanks again for a quality kit.

fullheadofnothing:
Build it stock first, otherwise you have no idea what you're upgrading.

Also, to peel back the curtain a bit, when PB built the first prototype, Doc thought it had promise but wasn't convinced. The biggest difference between that first prototype and the one that made Doc say it was a product was the caps you want to replace.

Food for thought.

ALL212:
Very good - I'll try not to change much...maybe just wires... ::)

1st question - page 24 - red wire.
Directions say "Attach and solder one end to the front lug of the row furthest from the headphone jack..."
Picture shows attached to the row closest on the same row the battery wire comes in on.

Page 26 - the resistors that go on the headphone jack.  Not on BOM and not in the kit.  Just looks like an oversight.  Also on the same page - 0 Ohm .4w resistors - is that the true value?  Looks like Mouser  594-SFR25-0  ??

Look Ma!  No changes!!!  I would recommend not populating the board with too many components before soldering.  Just do one or two at a time as it's crowded in there.  Also the directions don't call out soldering the socket in but I'm sure you should.  I would also put the IC socket in before C1 and C7.  It's not easy to rotate that socket in with those two caps in there.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1854_zps30c546ee.jpg&hash=78864f78e34c9075f550e70d393d1fb8a532bd71)

So Far...oh, ya - I did change up the wire.  ;D  The input wire is Teflon over silver plated copper.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1859_zps215bc207.jpg&hash=93f44c2c4eef103335ac92d2c5ea02a9c1298b12)

All soldering done except headphone jack resistors.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1860_zpsb724c66c.jpg&hash=14c71d85b13d5602251b7c7a69c26f2e2b23dc78)

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1862_zpsc9044279.jpg&hash=a96408dcc276b0dfe0c10d410acf326ac55c36d2)

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1861_zps91b35b64.jpg&hash=66b560e2548de77fb49b7e640d7e8a4ecd6c4b3e)

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1863_zps2b34049a.jpg&hash=66f39a36525c236449c6f69a1c8d446910546aa2)

Grainger49:
Pretty, but it seems to be a University of Georgia color scheme. 

I particularly like the upgraded wire.  It has true texture.

2wo:
A good plan for populating PCB's is to go low to high. add the resistors first, then the next smallest components, working up to the tallest caps...John

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