My Crack Build

lior.amsalem · 20638

« previous next »
Pages: 1 2 3 4 ... 6   Go Down

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #15 on: December 03, 2011, 03:17:26 AM
Quote from: jrihs on December 02, 2011, 09:20:43 PM
Despite fair warning, I used WBT solder (4% silver). This was my first kit but I found it fine to work with and was a good match for the wiring I chose...which was harder to work with than the solder for sure.

If your soldering iron heats quickly and you don't leave it on the joint too long, I count to three so everything is the same temperature, and remove the iron, you are fine.  Somewhere in this thread Richard says the solder I have been using for the last few years, 4% silver.  I didn't know.  But I'm pretty experienced with soldering.  Poster Paully, Paul H, comes over for a build about once a year and he uses it without any problems.  But I have seen some solder from Radio Shack that was horribly hard to melt that is 4% silver.


Offline lior.amsalem

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 45
Reply #16 on: December 03, 2011, 12:00:42 PM
Few more details on the build :)
Wood color will be Wenge, to match my home office furnitures.
the plate will probably be matte grey.

Placed orders for all the upgrades I wanted: RCAs, POT, HP Jack, Axon 91uF caps, ...
« Last Edit: December 03, 2011, 02:00:36 PM by lior.amsalem »


Offline lior.amsalem

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 45
Reply #17 on: December 05, 2011, 01:50:21 AM
Hi all,
Next topic, wires.
Well, I really wanna go with vintage cloth wires (mainly for that vintage look I love) but hope it's the correct decision sound wise...
Can anyone help with the current wire gauge?
What length supplied in each color in the kit? Any benefits of going with lower gauge wires for the filaments?

Regards,
LA
« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 02:34:06 AM by lior.amsalem »


Offline Laudanum

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 916
Reply #18 on: December 05, 2011, 03:57:27 AM
It's solid core and Im pretty sure that it's all 20 AWG.  It was atleast in mine.  The wire included with speedball was teflon insulated and I think 22 awg.  Im sure others will correct me if im wrong.  Cant help with the total length or the filament wire gauge question.

Desmond G.

Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #19 on: December 05, 2011, 04:27:38 AM
The heaters would be fine with a 24 AWG shielded.  The current is low and using a shield would keep the noise even lower than a stock build. 

Sorry I can't help with what wire is supplied with the current Crack kit.


Offline lior.amsalem

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 45
Reply #20 on: December 05, 2011, 04:43:50 AM
Hi Grainger, Desmond,
Quick answers as always! Thanks for the posts and notes!!

I think I'll go with wires from tubedepot
http://tubedepot.com/wire.html

I'll get some 20ga solid cloth wires for all the wiring and i'll order some 18ga just in case I'll like to use them.

What do you think? Is that ok?

LA
« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 04:53:42 AM by lior.amsalem »


Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #21 on: December 05, 2011, 05:08:25 AM
The current, which needs a larger wire, is in the plate/cathode circuits and in the heaters.  24 AWG, I don't know the metric equivalent, should carry all the current that there is in the Crack.  Maybe I will drag out an NEC and verify the ampacity of #24.

Edit:  Looked, #24 wasn't listed but #27 is good for 1/2 amp, #20 for 5 amps.  I think you are safe in the Crack with #24 (nope see PJ's post below) 20 or larger.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 01:35:22 PM by Grainger49 »


Offline Jim R.

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 2194
  • Blind Bottlehead
Reply #22 on: December 05, 2011, 05:13:53 AM
Lior,

That's the exact lin I was going to send you.  the 20 gauge cloth/pvc solid core should do fine for everything in the Crack.  No need for the 18 gauge on the filaments and  there's no twisted shielded pair in the Crack, so that's all you'll need.  Lots of colors too!  Just don't get the stranded -- stick with solid core.

HTH,

Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)

Offline STURMJ

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 279
Reply #23 on: December 05, 2011, 06:59:08 AM
Have you seen Triodelectronics offerings? Looks like a good deal too.
http://triodeelectronics.com/wire.html
I have used them before, and they are reliable, I've use tubedepot as well and they are as well.


Offline Jim R.

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 2194
  • Blind Bottlehead
Reply #24 on: December 05, 2011, 07:44:22 AM
Hmmm, that looks to be a possibly better option -- it's 22 gauge, which is also fine for the crack and probably eaisier to work with in some places, double cloth insulation and good for 600volts.

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)

Offline Paul Joppa

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 5775
Reply #25 on: December 05, 2011, 08:41:38 AM
The 6080 takes 2.5 amps, by far the highest current in the amp.

Paul Joppa

Offline lior.amsalem

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 45
Reply #26 on: December 05, 2011, 09:28:27 AM
THANKS ALL!!!
I'll go with the tubedepot wires.
I'll make the order now, is it worth adding two gold plated ceramic tube chassis mounts? like this one:
http://tubedepot.com/sk-9ping.html
(and of course the 8 pins one as well)

Or maybe those belton high quality?
http://tubedepot.com/belton.html

It's a few bucks and I'll be paying shipping anyway...
Also, is there anything else I can add that I'll might need later on?


Thanks again,
LA

« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 10:03:30 AM by lior.amsalem »


Offline 2wo

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1243
  • Test
Reply #27 on: December 05, 2011, 05:28:08 PM
The Belton look nice, The last one, the 9 pin wave, is in my Ah! CD player. It's a very good socket...John

John S.

Offline richmi

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 39
Reply #28 on: December 05, 2011, 06:21:08 PM
I converted my Extended Foreplay 2 or 3 weeks ago.

I used two Belton octal sockets that I had bought a few years back, plus the original ceramic one for the regulator.

Be advised that the Belton octal socket is 1 3/16 inches in diameter and may not fit the hole in the chassis plate. I had to enlarge those in the Foreplay with a file to fit them. Not a pleasing experience. I had assumed, wrongly, that all octal sockets were the same size.

Make sure the socket you order fits the hole you have.

Richard

Richard Milette
Seduction C4S
Extended Foreplay III (converted to 6SN7 Nov. 2011)
Paramount 300Bs
Crack (6SN7) + Speedball + HD650

Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #29 on: December 06, 2011, 01:30:28 AM
Quote from: richmi on December 05, 2011, 06:21:08 PM
   .  .  .   Be advised that the Belton octal socket is 1 3/16 inches in diameter and may not fit the hole in the chassis plate. I had to enlarge those in the Foreplay with a file to fit them.  .   .  .     

If you can find a ream that fits the hole it will enlarge it easily and a little at a time.  Failing that find a stepped drill bit that is larger than the existing hole.  I have done both and prefer the ream but they are hard to find these days.


Pages: 1 2 3 4 ... 6   Go Up
« previous next »