Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: DenverDude on September 29, 2020, 06:40:47 AM
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Hello - A few months ago I rolled a tube in my Crack w/ Speedball from the stock 6080 to a NOS Tung Sol 5998 tube. When I turned the unit on with the 5998, there was a buzz coming out of the left channel for the first 30 minutes or so and then would dissipate and not be present (and the sound was amazing) until I would turn off the unit and then turn it back on, when the buzz would again commence for 30 or so minutes and dissipate.
Doc suggested I resolder all the connections to my tubes and clean the tube elements, so I did that this weekend. I re-installed the 6080 on the unit and it worked fine all day yesterday. Today I reinstalled the Tung Sol 5998 to see if the problem was the tube or the soldering, and the buzz was present when I first turned the unit on. So I walked away for an hour or so to let the buzz dissipate, and now the unit does not work at all. When the unit is on, the tubes do not heat up and there is no sound. When I turn the unit on, I can hear a slight "click" in the headphones, but that's all.
Any assistance would be much appreciated ... thanks.
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Did you redo the resistance and voltage checks? It’s probably still a bad connection but those can tell you where it’s happening.
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Perform the voltage checks and post them here.
Do the tubes glow at least?
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Thanks Paul and oguinn - The tubes are not glowing. I will perform the resistance and voltage checks tonight and post them. Thanks for your help :)
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Here are all my checks:
Resistance Readings
1 - Wander
2 - Wander
3 - 0 ohms
4 - Wander
5 - Wander
6 - 2.481K ohms
7 - OF reading
8 - 0 ohms
9 - OF reading
10 - 2.481K ohms
12 - 0 ohms
13 - starting at 0 climbing slowly to ~280K ohms
14 - 0 ohms
20 - 0 ohms
22 - 0 ohms
B3 - OF reading
B6 - OF reading
RCA Ground - 0 ohms
RCA Center - 93K ohms
Voltage Readings
1 - 5.9 V
2 - 232.1 V
3 - 0 V
4 - 231.8 V
5 - 230.1 V
6 - 0 V
7 - 1.7 V
8 - 0 V
9 - 1.6 V
10 - 0 V
11 - 0 V
12 - 0 V
13 - 231.3 V
14 - 0 V
15 - 236.5 V
20 - 0 V
21 - 241.1 V
A1 - 229.6 V
A2 - 0 V
A4 - 0 V
A5 - 0 V
A6 - 7.6 V
A7 - 0 V
A9 - 0 V
B1 - 7.2 V
B2 - 232.4 V
B3 - 1.7 V
B4 - 230.8 V
B5 - 232.2 V
B6 - 1.6 V
B7 - 0 V
B8 - 0 V
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You need to focus on getting the tubes to glow. If neither tube glows, then the wiring to B7/B8 from the power transformer is broken or poorly soldered. There is absolutely not anything else you should focus on until you can get the tubes to glow; all other problems are completely meaningless until the tubes can conduct.
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Hello Paul - I was finally able to get the tubes to glow and the Crack functioned fine for about 2 weeks until I started to get buzzing in the left channel, and tapping on the top of the unit would affect the buzzing.
So I went in and re-soldered every terminal and connection that wasn't part of a circuit board. Now when I plug in the unit the tubes will glow but I have zero voltage in any of the terminals.
At this point I feel that I'm over my head and I don't know how to fix this unit, so I was wondering if I could ship this to you and have your team repair it for a fee. Just let me know... thanks for your help :)
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Could you post some photos of your build? It seems very obvious that you have some flaky solder joints in the amp. When it's all said and done, a flat rate repair will cost you roughly $200 with all the associated shipping costs, and reflowing every joint in the amp takes about twenty minutes.
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Hello Paul - I went back and resoldered additional terminals and connections.Both tubes are glowing, and here are my voltage checks:
1 - 183 V
2 - 188.3 V
3 - 1.1 mV
4 - 188 V
5 - 79.1V
6 - 3 mV
7 - 180.4 V
8 - 1.3 mV
9 - 111.9 V
10 - 1 mV
11 - 1 mV
12 - Negative lead
13 - 187.3 V
14 - 0.6 mV
15 206.6 V
20 - 0.3 mV
21 - 225 V
A1 - 79.9 V
A2 - 1.3 mV
A4 - 0.2 mV
A5 - 0 mV
A6 - 181.4 V
A7 - 1 mV
A9 - 0 mV
B1 - 181.4 V
B2 - 186.8 V
B3 - 180 V
B4 - 79.3 V
B5 - 186 V
B6 - 112 V
B7 - 0.4 mV
B8 - 0.2 mv
I have gone back and resoldered A3 and Terminal 1 two additional times and am still getting high voltage readings for those. Any guidance or advice would be appreciated :)
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If you've resoldered the LED terminals a bunch, you may have damaged an LED. If you have 12V on A3 or A8, you have reheated an LED enough to destroy it. If the other LED is still working (which it seems to be), you can install a short wire jumper between A3 and A8 to restore proper functionality.
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Thanks for that advice, Paul.
I added a jump wire between A3 and A8 and now the unit is working. However, I get a steady low buzz from both channels with the CRC-6080 supplied with the Crack, and when I plug in a NOS Tung-Sol 5998 that I purchased, the buzz gets louder, especially in the left channel.
Also, the left channel seems to have a touch less gain than the right. Here are my voltage readings:
1 82.3
2 176.3
3 0
4 175.4
5 82.1
6 0
7 108.6
8 0
9 109.4
10 0
11 0
12 na
13 175.5
14 0
15 194.4
20 0
21 213.8
a1 81.4
a2 0
a4 0
a5 0
a6 82.0
a7 0
a9 0
b1 82.0
b2 174.6
b3 108.3
b4 81.3
b5 175.4
b6 108.7
b7 0
b8 0
Any ideas on what I need to address ... thanks again for your assistance.
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Also at this point I have re-soldered every primary connection within the unit (with the exception of the speedball circuits) twice in the last few months. And the other tube in the unit is an ECC 82.
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At this point I'd like to ship this to you and have you fix what is wrong with this circuit. I have done my level best but I'm not an expert at this and after hours soldering and testing, I am at the end of my ability and patience in trying to troubleshoot this. Just let me know where I need to submit payment and what I need to do to ship this to you. Thanks for your help ... I really do appreciate it.
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I get a steady low buzz from both channels with the CRC-6080 supplied with the Crack,
Is this buzz at all dependent on the volume knob position? If yes, is it there with the knob all the way down? If the buzz is there regardless of the volume knob position, this tends to suggest a loose solder joint on a filter capacitor.
There's still more debugging that can be done via the forum, and I would hate to have you spend all the money to send your amp to me for me to fix something like a simple soldering issue.
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Thanks for your patience, Paul.
So when I first turn on the device, there is no hum. After the unit warms up, anywhere from 30 to 120 minutes after usage, then the hum develops, mostly in the left channel but it's evident in both. It also affects the gain of the left channel slightly (it's a skosh quieter than the right channel).
When the hum is present, it is there regardless of the position of the volume knob (zero or louder). Also, if I tap the table where the unit is positioned or I tap the unit itself, I hear it through the headphones. And when I lift up the left side of the unit, the hum dissipates.
Also, the hum sometimes goes away and returns randomly during longer listening sessions (3 hours or longer ... I sometimes listen to this all day when working).
I hope that helps...
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And when I lift up the left side of the unit, the hum dissipates.
That suggests a loose joint or loose hardware.
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This is where I am frustrated, Paul. I have resoldered all main terminals 3 times now and I am still getting the same buzz in the (mostly) left and (partially) right channels that I had before I did any resoldering. Obviously me resoldering the main terminals isn't working. I have changed both tubes (with the really expensive Tung-Sol 5998 replacement buzzing even worse than the stock CRC-6080) and to no avail.
I would rather pay you $200+ to determine what I am doing wrong than to suffer every day with frustrating sound because I don't know what to do at this point, even if it takes you 5 minutes to fix/resolve. I have my own expertise where I can fix something in an hour that would take someone who is inexperienced dozens of hours and thousands of dollars to figure out, so I am fine for paying for a seasoned expert to solve the problem. I have tried time and again and it's not doing the job. Plus I am really baffled why the Tung-Sol I purchased is such a dud. Just let me know where I can ship this and how I can pay you. Thanks again.
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I think Paul is asking you to tighten all the screws attaching the hardware to the aluminum plate.
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Yes, please be sure all the screws are nice and tight.
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Sorry I misunderstood, Paul. I tightened all the hardware down firmly, and although it has helped with the buzzing, after the unit has been operating for 2+ hours, I still am getting noise through the left channel when I tap the table near the unit or tap the unit itself (it's a tinny sound when I tap). And tonight after it being used all day, there is a consistent buzz in both channels. Also the left channel seems to have a tad bit less gain than the right (i.e., there's a very minor balance issue).
It seems like these issues arise once the unit has been used for multiple hours. Any advice?
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It seems like these issues arise once the unit has been used for multiple hours. Any advice?
I have to wonder whether this might be heat related. Do you have the rubber feet installed so that there is at least a 1/4" gap between the wood frame and the table? Are the vent holes on the metal chassis open and clear? I'd also check that the heatsinks are properly and tightly mounted with the supplied mica insulator.
Just some shots in the dark.
cheers, Derek
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Thanks for the ideas, Derek. The rubber feet were installed to spec, so there is the 1/4 inch gap between the unit and the table. The vent holes are clear (though I can view a couple of wires when looking inside ... I assume this is normal). The heatsinks are firmly attached too.
To be honest, the unit has always run hot to the touch ... I can keep my fingers on it so it's not as hot as the cylinders on my Triumph when riding for a while, but it's much more than warm.
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It seems like these issues arise once the unit has been used for multiple hours. Any advice?
Do the voltages change if you leave the amp on for a few hours and recheck them?
Can you let me know what soldering products you used on the amp? (solder, flux, etc)
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Hello Paul -
Here are the measurements as follows:
First reading = Just after turning unit on
Second reading = 6 hours after turning unit on- slight tinny noise in mostly left channel and when I tap on metal base I hear tinny tapping in mostly left channel - unit hot to the touch
Third reading - 2 hours after last reading, unit still on - now low but audible buzz in both channels - when I tap on metal base I still hear tinny tapping in mostly left channel - unit hot to the touch
1 84.3 - 84.2 - 83.4
2 182.8 - 176 - 179.2
3 0 - 0 - 0
4 182.8 - 175.8 - 179.4
5 83 - 83.1 - 82.2
6 0 - 0 - 0
7 112.2 -110.1 - 110.9
8 0 - 0 - 0
9 112.4 - 110.4 - 111.3
10 0 - 0 - 0
11 0 - 0 - 0
12 NA - NA - NA
13 182 - 178.4 - 179.4
14 0 - 0 - 0
15 201.2 - 195 - 198.6
20 0 - 0 - 0
21 220.8 - 214 - 217.9
A1 82.6 - 83.2 - 82.3
A2 0 - 0 - 0
A4 0 - 0 - 0
A5 0 - 0 - 0
A6 83.5 - 83.8 - 83.5
A7 0 - 0 - 0
A9 0 - 0 - 0
B1 83.5 - 83.7 - 83.6
B2 182.2 - 178 - 179
B3 112 - 110.6 - 110.9
B4 82.4 - 82.5 - 82.4
B5 182.2 - 178 - 179.3
B6 112 - 110.8 - 111.2
B7 0 - 0 - 0
B8 0 - 0 - 0
I am using Alphametals 60% tin 40% lead solder with fastacting flux.
Also, since my last soldering job, neither channel plays unless I pull the headphones out slighly and then I can bring the right and left channel in, but it's not perfect.
At this point, I want to send this unit into you to take a look at it. I am at the point where I need help, so let me know where to send in and how you need payment. Thanks for your help...
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Sure, we can set that up. It would be helpful to see some build photos before we go down the repair road.
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Just let me know what you need pics of and I will supply them.
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Here are several pics of the assembly....
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OK, you can give Eileen a call on Monday to setup the flat rate repair.
Thank you for providing the photos, it's helpful to be able to visually confirm that the amp is stock and doesn't have something super obvious going on.