Bottlehead Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: andyh on January 03, 2021, 02:12:54 AM
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What gauge solder would you recommend for a Crack build? 0.7mm or 1.2mm.
I have 0.7mm and found that ok with circuit boards just thinking 1.2mm may be better for wires.
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Either can work, but I'd stick with the 0.7mm. Easier to control how much solder you feed into the joint - less likelihood of solder blobs. Got a big joint that requires a lot of solder? No problem, just feed more in.
Someone else asked about solder gauge recently: http://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=12857.msg117471#msg117471 (http://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=12857.msg117471#msg117471)
Just my two cents.
cheers, Derek
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I agree with Derek. Much easier to control.
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Thanks all
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If I may piggyback off this thread (and the one linked), any reason not to use very high-silver solder (the AudioQuest brand stuff), or is it not appropriate for this application and I'd be better off with 60/40? Thanks!
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Never heard of that before, so I looked it up. I can't find any info on melting/working temp or any reviews of what it's like to work with.
The label on the solder states "More silver than lead!" - and if that's true it gives me pause. I wonder if that means it lies somewhere between standard 60/40 solder and lead-free solder? If so, I would expect it to be harder to work with. Unless AQ has figured out some new eutectic blend that keeps the melting temp really low. I have some WBT lead-free 4% silver solder and really dislike it. Despite it's stated low melting temp, I find it needs a really hot joint to flow and that it solidifies unnervingly fast -- but perhaps that's just the nature of lead-free solder and isn't a problem. But the tendency of the WBT stuff to form little solder spurs when I pull the soldering iron tip away is a pain. Cardas Quad Eutectic, on the other hand, is the easiest solder to work with that I've tried. It contains some small propriety amount of copper and silver. I seem to recall reading that it's 2% silver.
There's a seller on Ebay who claims to offer the AQ silver solder for $1.50/ft: https://www.ebay.com/i/262731809005?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=262731809005&targetid=4580977766998737&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=403206332&mkgroupid=1238050308110012&rlsatarget=pla-4580977766998737&abcId=9300372&merchantid=51291&msclkid=0219e5b76bdd1b9fb13bba44b6c7006d (https://www.ebay.com/i/262731809005?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=262731809005&targetid=4580977766998737&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=403206332&mkgroupid=1238050308110012&rlsatarget=pla-4580977766998737&abcId=9300372&merchantid=51291&msclkid=0219e5b76bdd1b9fb13bba44b6c7006d)
If you want to try it, I'd suggest picking up $10 worth rather than shelling out more than 15 times that for an entire spool. And if you do get and use it, please post about it here on the BH forum! The "tweaker" in me is very interested to hear about first hand experiences with this stuff. :D
cheers, Derek
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Some of the exotic solders can be a pain in the ass to use and lead to more bad joints than any possible sonic advantages. I would suggest a good 60/40 or better yet 63/37 eutectic.
I use a 2-3% silver eutectic I got from Welborne years ago and it is a joy to use but I don't know who made it. If you feel the need to use high end soldier, as Derek says, go with the Cardas...John
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I have been quite satisfied by using Kester 44 63/37 .031 dia. for the past 30 years and 60/40 also. Silver at 4% is a not a friendly
solder especially if you need to desolder a mistake, to much heat required, not that I have ever made a mistake before ( i cant help being an ass sorry) The inclusion of silver is more of a structural enhancement than an electrical one. Just my old ass advise take with a grain of salt.
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+1 for the Cardas solder. Melts easily, flows well and gives a good finish. I have reels of other solder but for kit building, Cardas is worth the little extra money. It is fine gauge, probably something like the 0.7mm and needs to be fed quite quickly but that gives more control IMO.
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The label on the solder states "More silver than lead!"
It's probably 96/4 (tin/silver). Terrible for point to point hand soldering. Cardas with the little bit of silver is quite nice, and 63/37 is a standard for a reason.
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I also have a roll of the Welbourne 2% Ag eutectic solder. It melts easily, flows well and gives a good finish similar to the Cardas.
Jim
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Good solder, however Welborne has been out of business for years.
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OK I will pass on that. I'm a dealer and did buy a 1/4 lb. for cheap and it seems it is designed for speaker cable/interconnects if you cannot crimp. It does not look to be used for this sort of work.
Have a pound of Kester 60/40 .03" and a small tube of Kester 63/37 .015" for any tricky small stuff (used it on some other small things to test and it is a dream to use).
Thanks!
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There is a lot of published data on solder. 60/40 and 63/37 work the best for point to point soldering. My personal favorite is 63/37 as there is no transitional state of the solder when compared to 60/40. It's either liquid or solid. Tin/Lead if you can get it in your country is very easy to work with and does what it was designed to do. Something people don't think about is the type and amount of flux in the solder though it should be one of your highest considerations. Again, there is a lot of published info on this. Each flux is designed for a specific type of work. My solder of choice is Muticore 370 or 362 flux which has five cores of flux in the solder. There are equivalent solders from Kester. Multicore is still available from Digikey and a 500G roll will last you for many years.
Take a few minutes and review the data sheets on the solder you are considering. It seems some folks make this a lot harder than it needs to be.