Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: lior.amsalem on November 29, 2011, 12:20:13 AM
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Hi all,
Ordered my kit yesterday and I'll keep this post updated with my progress and stuff.
This kit build will be my first serious one (beside some PCBs kits). It's also my first serious lesson into electronics of audio tube amps.
I will also try to add comments and question I encounter to help any new DIY down the road.
I little on my setup:
Mac mini -> AIFF/Apple Loseless -> iTunes -> BitPerfect -> Belkin PRO USB -> HRT MSII -> two of those nice male to male RCA adapters -> currently Harman Kardon HK3250 -> 650 cable -> HD600 HP
I'll be dividing my build into 3:
1. Crack kit alone with wood and plate work. I'll listen to the stock Crack for a week or so.
2. Speedball upgrade, probably a week of listening.
3. Other upgrade.
I already stocking up with parts and update as they arrive and picture all, trying to find the best parts for the money.
Upgrades I'll be doing, except SB:
1. Axon 91uF output caps.
2. ALPS blue velvet 100K pot.
3. Neutrik/Connex RCA jacks.
4. Neutrik locking jack.
5. Cloth wires (20ga)
6. Belton tube sockets.
7. Some tubes for rolling.
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Finished!
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7051%2F6871547663_47fc460aec.jpg&hash=cd24e5ddd4a82f13e2fb8b3a5e7298cab83159d7) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/6871547663/)
Build photos:
W/O speedball:
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7174%2F6688768469_f15bc57f2b.jpg&hash=c417b85860ba7110d3f234f8c6cd4d16ef325f84) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/6688768469/)
W speedball:
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7034%2F6722612919_7c788cdc62.jpg&hash=8d7a4b48f7d73e3419e13326d1f5dcd1eb95360c) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/6722612919/)
W Triad choke installed:
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm7.staticflickr.com%2F6117%2F6998023971_26938c9050.jpg&hash=87ffee5b6470908b6936d876556952bbe348e2b7) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/6998023971/)
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Do a forum search on "stepped attenuator" or just "attenuator." There are many out there that folks like.
Of course Bottlehead sells the Sweetest Whispers, 11 steps and easy to build. (I can't find them on the parts page or the general Products page."
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Hi Grainger49,
I'm not looking for stepped attenuator, too expensive. Just looking for maybe a better potentiometer like the ALPS.
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Hi Grainger49,
I'm not looking for stepped attenuator, too expensive. Just looking for maybe a better potentiometer like the ALPS.
The Alps blue tracks very well at low volumes. I also think they sound perfectly fine. They are available for 15 bucks (usa anyway) give or take if you can find them at electronics suppliers. Audio specialty dealers want more for them, in the $25 range. At $15 or even $25 they are a good potentiometer IMO. The only downside is that the have PCB pins which make it a little trickier to solder wires to but not a big deal at all, really. Probably best to stick with 100K .
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Lior,
As Desmond said, stick with a 100k pot, and personally, I try to avoid stepped attenuators on headphone amps as they always seem to have stops that are a bit too low or too high for where I want to listen, but others love them, so YMMV.
The Cardas Quad is a fantastic, easy to use solder, so go for it!
Looking forward to hearing about your progress, and especially what you think once you hear it.
-- Jim
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Here is what the Foreplay and the Paramount manuals say:
"Solder - we recommend standard 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead solder as the easiest to work with. 2% silver solder is OK, but stay away from 4% silver solder. It does not flow well. If you are using an adjustable solder station you will want to set the temperature to about 650-700 degrees."
Cardas Quad Eutectic solder contains around 4% silver.
In my experience, it is great for point-to-point wiring (metal to metal), but not for connexions on printed circuit boards (PCBs) as it does not flow well especially in smaller holes, even with more heat, with possible cold joints as a result. This is what I have, and I recently bought some 60/40 solder for work on PCBs.
The thing I like better with Cardas' is that the solder is a smaller gage, so handling is more precise.
If I had to start over again, I would not use Cardas Quad Eutectic. I had bought it before I received my kits and manuals, so I used it anyway. Others may like it. YMMV.
Richard
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found this one on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPS-100K-STEREO-AUDIO-AMPLIFIER-VOLUME-CONTROL-POT-/380250613139?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5888b3e593#ht_2068wt_1071 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPS-100K-STEREO-AUDIO-AMPLIFIER-VOLUME-CONTROL-POT-/380250613139?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5888b3e593#ht_2068wt_1071)
What do you think? It is a real ALPS one? which shaft is easier to find knobs for? slotted and rounded?
Thanks,
LA
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I have used these and they are excellent! Many knobs will fit on the smooth shaft even if it isn't perfect because of the set screw. I'd consider these easier to work with.
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Hi there guys,
Few more questions.
As for the output caps what's your recommendations, looking for one under 20$ each?
Saw the Axon 91uF 250v for 15$ each, anyone uses it?
As for the headphone jack, looked at the Neutrik locking one.
There are two types:
NJ3FP6C-B: Locking 1/4" phone jack, D-size shell, black metal housing and gold contacts.
NJ3FP6P-BAG: Locking 1/4" phone jack, D-size shell, black plastic housing and silver contacts.
So, it there any relevance to the metal VS plastic housing in term of insulation from the aluminum plate?
Another Q, I remember to came across a post recommending not to keep the HP plugged while powering up, anyone can clarify? if so, I guess a locking jack will just make life harder for "replug" each time.
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The only thing I can help with is keeping the HP plugged in. When the amp starts up the output caps have to charge before blocking DC. Not much DC leaks through and the resistor at the output jack sends it to ground.
But if you have your headphones plugged in they take the DC directly across the drivers. Doc is just being safe. It might not hurt the drivers but it could. So the safest thing is to unplug them.
The same thing goes with a full Bottlehead system. We turn on our preamps first, wait a few seconds for the DC pop to go away and then turn on the amps.
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There is atleast one member here using the Axon 91uF caps. Do a search, it should come up. The Solens can be found for not a whole lot more in 100uF but you probably wont hear much difference between 91uF and 100uF. Also, there is some debate as to whether the Solens and Axons sound the same. I would think that in the least, very similiar. I think it has been established that Solen makes the Axons. Erse is another possibility for a low cost 100uF film cap. The standard Mundorf MKP's are a little bit more expensive but still affordable. I believe that Dayton also has a 100uf close in cost to the Axons, or atleast less money than the Solens. I think Bennic makes the Daytons. Ive used much smaller value Daytons in crossover networks. They arent bad. Im using the Mundorfs as are atleast a couple other members. I like them.
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Hi Desmond,
Thanks, I guess that due to the prices and my will to make this build as cheap as I can while still upgrade whatever I can. I'll go with the Axon 91uF caps.
Anyone has got a good recommendation for cheap first tubes? (don't want to buy something expensive, just want to have another tubes while building to avoid bad tube problems)
Looking for one power and one input tubes, saw some in the tube rolling thread but I want to know which one is cheap and great :)
What I'm looking for is a match between the power and input that maybe someone can recommend, but on the cheap side.
Found at home some Kester 63/37 solder I'll probably use.
Still waiting for some info regrading the Neutrik locking housing...
P.S. I've updated the main thread with some more info...
Regards,
LA
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I like the RCA 6AS7 (ST shape) and they are often inexpensive on ebay. I've picked them up for under $15 (and even one or two under $10). Of course you take your chances on that site but Ive had good luck buying from sellers with perfect or near perfect feedback.
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Despite fair warning, I used WBT solder (4% silver). This was my first kit but I found it fine to work with and was a good match for the wiring I chose...which was harder to work with than the solder for sure.
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Despite fair warning, I used WBT solder (4% silver). This was my first kit but I found it fine to work with and was a good match for the wiring I chose...which was harder to work with than the solder for sure.
If your soldering iron heats quickly and you don't leave it on the joint too long, I count to three so everything is the same temperature, and remove the iron, you are fine. Somewhere in this thread Richard says the solder I have been using for the last few years, 4% silver. I didn't know. But I'm pretty experienced with soldering. Poster Paully, Paul H, comes over for a build about once a year and he uses it without any problems. But I have seen some solder from Radio Shack that was horribly hard to melt that is 4% silver.
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Few more details on the build :)
Wood color will be Wenge, to match my home office furnitures.
the plate will probably be matte grey.
Placed orders for all the upgrades I wanted: RCAs, POT, HP Jack, Axon 91uF caps, ...
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Hi all,
Next topic, wires.
Well, I really wanna go with vintage cloth wires (mainly for that vintage look I love) but hope it's the correct decision sound wise...
Can anyone help with the current wire gauge?
What length supplied in each color in the kit? Any benefits of going with lower gauge wires for the filaments?
Regards,
LA
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It's solid core and Im pretty sure that it's all 20 AWG. It was atleast in mine. The wire included with speedball was teflon insulated and I think 22 awg. Im sure others will correct me if im wrong. Cant help with the total length or the filament wire gauge question.
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The heaters would be fine with a 24 AWG shielded. The current is low and using a shield would keep the noise even lower than a stock build.
Sorry I can't help with what wire is supplied with the current Crack kit.
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Hi Grainger, Desmond,
Quick answers as always! Thanks for the posts and notes!!
I think I'll go with wires from tubedepot
http://tubedepot.com/wire.html
I'll get some 20ga solid cloth wires for all the wiring and i'll order some 18ga just in case I'll like to use them.
What do you think? Is that ok?
LA
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The current, which needs a larger wire, is in the plate/cathode circuits and in the heaters. 24 AWG, I don't know the metric equivalent, should carry all the current that there is in the Crack. Maybe I will drag out an NEC and verify the ampacity of #24.
Edit: Looked, #24 wasn't listed but #27 is good for 1/2 amp, #20 for 5 amps. I think you are safe in the Crack with #24 (nope see PJ's post below) 20 or larger.
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Lior,
That's the exact lin I was going to send you. the 20 gauge cloth/pvc solid core should do fine for everything in the Crack. No need for the 18 gauge on the filaments and there's no twisted shielded pair in the Crack, so that's all you'll need. Lots of colors too! Just don't get the stranded -- stick with solid core.
HTH,
Jim
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Have you seen Triodelectronics offerings? Looks like a good deal too.
http://triodeelectronics.com/wire.html
I have used them before, and they are reliable, I've use tubedepot as well and they are as well.
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Hmmm, that looks to be a possibly better option -- it's 22 gauge, which is also fine for the crack and probably eaisier to work with in some places, double cloth insulation and good for 600volts.
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The 6080 takes 2.5 amps, by far the highest current in the amp.
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THANKS ALL!!!
I'll go with the tubedepot wires.
I'll make the order now, is it worth adding two gold plated ceramic tube chassis mounts? like this one:
http://tubedepot.com/sk-9ping.html
(and of course the 8 pins one as well)
Or maybe those belton high quality?
http://tubedepot.com/belton.html
It's a few bucks and I'll be paying shipping anyway...
Also, is there anything else I can add that I'll might need later on?
Thanks again,
LA
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The Belton look nice, The last one, the 9 pin wave, is in my Ah! CD player. It's a very good socket...John
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I converted my Extended Foreplay 2 or 3 weeks ago.
I used two Belton octal sockets that I had bought a few years back, plus the original ceramic one for the regulator.
Be advised that the Belton octal socket is 1 3/16 inches in diameter and may not fit the hole in the chassis plate. I had to enlarge those in the Foreplay with a file to fit them. Not a pleasing experience. I had assumed, wrongly, that all octal sockets were the same size.
Make sure the socket you order fits the hole you have.
Richard
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. . . Be advised that the Belton octal socket is 1 3/16 inches in diameter and may not fit the hole in the chassis plate. I had to enlarge those in the Foreplay with a file to fit them. . . .
If you can find a ream that fits the hole it will enlarge it easily and a little at a time. Failing that find a stepped drill bit that is larger than the existing hole. I have done both and prefer the ream but they are hard to find these days.
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Hi all,
Thanks for the cooperation so far!
Has anyone tried using the ALPS POT Mounting Board from AMB?
http://www.amb.org/audio/epsilon27/
I was wondering if it's going to make life easier with soldering to the POT legs...
Also, sound wise? any influence?
Thanks,
LA
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No, I havent seen it but would have considered it if I knew about it. I actually though about making a PCB for the connectons. I have built a couple kits from AMB so Im surprised I didnt notice it. It looks like you need to use molex crimp (or solder) connectors to wire to and then these plug into the headers on the board. Im not so sure I like that. Makes for extra solder/crimp connections. Pot to board, header to board, wire to molex plug and plug to header instead of wire soldered direct to pot. But I imagine you could skip the headers and solder the wires directly to board. Just one extra connection/joint and the traces. But none of the additional connections may matter, may just be me obsessing.
All that said, the Alps pot is not very difficult to solder directly to the pins. I think I mentioned that I just used 22 AWG solid core instead of the 20 AWG included with the kit. Just made it a little easier with the smaller and more flexible 22 AWG.
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I posted a pic in the pot-attenuator thread that will illustrate my comments.
I'm sure the pcb mount works-functions just fine.... but, remember that the Alps pot fits perfectly as is ( with the speedball upgrade) between the ccs boards and the base wall. It looks like this pcb mount will add a couple of cm to the width of the pot. It may not be possible to use it with out moving lots of stuff around, esp. with the speedball upgrade.
Im on my phone, othrwise I would link the pic here.
Here is a Alps in a speedballed crack.
http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,1508.0.html
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Thanks STURMJ,
That's an important input!
I'll skip the PCB...
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Fun is starting! Parts arriving!
Added photos..
Here's a link to the photos, till I figure out how to embed the photos in the forum page:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/sets/72157628389850851/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/sets/72157628389850851/)
:)
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some more parts arrived. add pictures in the flickr link...
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Got the kit this week! Thanks Eileen and Doc for the chocolates :)
Started with base assembly and painting.
The plate drilled down by my father to allow space for the Belton sockets and the Neutrik locking jack.
I've upload pictures to Flickr...
same link but here is it again:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/sets/72157628389850851/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/sets/72157628389850851/)
Thanks for watching!
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Wow, how nice to have a helpful dad with a fabulous machine shop! Looking good!
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Nice build :)
But dont buy the mounting board. A god solderpoint to the potmeter is better
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another pic added, decided to paint all bolt's head in black...
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That is funny. I just built my Crack over Christmas and did it all in black. I sprayed the top plat a gloss hammered black and the base is sprayed a satin black.
I built it completely stock, which is a first for me with a Bottlehead kit. I did get the Speedball, but want to experiance the stock kit first. I must say that the Crack sounds great with my Sennheiser HD-650. I need to compare it with my upgraded S.E.X. amp with MQ nickle striped iron, attenuator, russian Teflon coupling caps, and Obbligato film oil caps.
I must say that from a sound perspective I do not feel there is a need to upgrade the amp, but I can never leave well enough alone and will look at doing something soon. Maybe add a bypass cap to the last film cap in the power supply or add the Triad choke.
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ok guys, first question..
on page 19 it says that for more quiet operation connect the wire to 14U instead of 22L... what should i do?
Do I need to connect it to 14U together with the cap and the wire needs to go there?
Secpnd one,
I was lucky enough to distroy one LED. can I use a LED from the Speedball kit till I'll get a new one?
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Connect the wire to 14U, and yes, you can use the LED from Speedball.
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FWIW, I used 14L instead with absolutely no problems. 14U gets pretty cramped with everything that connects there.
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Thanks!
Flickr updated with some more pics...
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Hi There,
Resistance check: DONE
Voltage check: DONE
Crack is working! I'll get home today for a first sound session.
Thank you Bottlehead! I'll upload some more pictures later.
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I'm speechless so you'll have to do with WOW !!&*($%#@$#$^$#%&%^$*&^
I'll go listen for now :)
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Lior,
Congratulations on the successful build! Yes, go enjoy -- but if you think it's good now, just wait... :-)
-- Jim
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Holy smokes !!! what a beautiful job you did with braiding the input wiring.. Bravo! ...mine did not quite turn out like that.
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Just ended up a long music session (if it was my call I was still listening), this amp surely sings!
The most notice character is the great separation I never heard before!
uploaded few more pictures.
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Yess, great separation with mine to. nice job. BTW, your jack is the second I've seen w/ the gasket. Mine did not come with one...its the nickle version though. I wonder why that would matter though?
Cheers
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BTW, your jack is the second I've seen w/ the gasket. Mine did not come with one...its the nickle version though. I wonder why that would matter though?
You'll have to buy the gasket separately, it's not a part of the HP Jack.
And it's only aesthetic, no other advantage or so.
LA
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Hi All,
Just finished the speedball upgrade! that's sound even better! Photos updated! voltage test is ok.
Had to use a small "bridge" to connect the speedball large plate to the other tube A pin, the suggested pin was too crowded with cables under...
I hear hum noise if no source is connected and I turn the volume all the way up, is that normal? or I should be dead silent same like when a source is connected?
Also, while doing the SB upgrade I've accidentally touch the film cap, very shallow and light touch (see the pictures), do you think it's ok or I just destroyed the cap?
Thanks for everything,
LA
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The proper way to test hum is with the inputs shorted rather than open. Leaving them open allows noise in and causes some hum. Of course turning the volume all the way up is an unrealistically high volume level. What matters is the normal listening level.
That said I wouldn't be surprised if you turned it all the way up with shorted inputs and didn't get any hum. That assumes a top notch build. My Seduction has always had a very low level hum. But most folks don't know it is there sitting at the listening position and at listening volumes.
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Yeah, Crack is really quiet. With open inputs, I dont know. But wide open with a digital source connected, not playing, amazingly quiet. No hum with mine at all. I assume it would be the same with shorting plugs on the inputs.
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Well, that's the same that thing I'm getting: shorted or with source connected I get dead silent even with volume knob all the way up.
What about the cap? what do you think? I'll try to get a better photo when I'll get home...
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If the cap is playing you are fine. If you damaged it I think you would know.
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Hi all,
I've been enjoying my crack for a few week already. but what's next? (I'm addicted)
While waiting for the BH DAC (hoping it'll be in a manageable price point)...
What will adding a power supply cap bypass and a choke will add?
How do I wire them?
Meanwhile, I've waited for the base to fully dry out and now i'll do the last sanding and painting.
Thanks,
LA
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Hi all,
I've been enjoying my crack for a few week already. but what's next? (I'm addicted)
While waiting for the BH DAC (hoping it'll be in a manageable price point)...
What will adding a power supply cap bypass and a choke will add?
How do I wire them?
Meanwhile, I've waited for the base to fully dry out and now i'll do the last sanding and painting.
Thanks,
LA
What's next how about upgrades:
http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,776.0.html
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Yeah, went thru it already.
What's left for me is PSU upgrades if needed with Speedball installed and maybe score a 5998 tube in a good price somewhere.
Anyone have a not so crazy priced source for the 5998 tube?
Anyway, regarding the choke again, will it make any different when Speedball installed already?
I've order few Mullard 12au7 tubes to experience with and a TS 12bh7 as well.
I'll report back :)
LA
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Finally got the volume knob i've ordered from ebay.
check the pics!
link again:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/sets/72157628389850851/
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Dang! that is one knurly knob! Really awesome, where did you find that thing?
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Got it from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-solid-Aluminum-Knob-29x27-mm-potentiometer-Alps-/220748830368?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item3365a7d6a0#ht_980wt_952
Anyway, search ebay for "alps knob" and you'll get tons of nice knobs :)
LA
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Can someone sale me a Triad C7X choke? mouser wants 40$ to order processing before shipping costs.. too much.
If someone has one spare he's willing to sale, please contact me...
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I bought mine from Allied for much less.
http://www.alliedelec.com/
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Can someone sale me a Triad C7X choke? mouser wants 40$ to order processing before shipping costs.. too much.
If someone has one spare he's willing to sale, please contact me...
I just checked Mouser and there on for $12.82. http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/C-7X/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuMS2dUaCDnDB57UyZo4e84
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Don't forget to purchase standoffs.
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Hi Lar,
You're right that's the price on Mouser, but they want 40$ handling something probably cause I'm in Israel and that's their cost on international handling.
It's just seems too much for me :)
That's why I've ask for help here in the first place.
LA
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The rating, 10 henries at 90mA at 270 ohms, is a fairly common specification. Outside the US, you may find other brands that are more readily available. Ten years ago there were some special construction advantages to the C7-X, but since then the version that is available is pretty standard.
The most important rating is the current, it should be at least 90mA. Second is the resistance; I think anything from 150 to 400 ohms is probably good enough. Least important is the inductance - anything greater than 4 henries will probably work pretty well. (More henries are usually better, of course.)
Shipping of heavy iron parts between continents is always going to add some cost. You may not have an option if you need one of our custom power transformer designs for 240v operation, but standard parts like power supply filter chokes will always be less expensive if they are made closer to home. Many of our Australian customers are familiar with this issue as well as out European, Mideast, and Asian customers!
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updated photos with my tubes collection so far...
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7204%2F6917111319_f04d728ef8.jpg&hash=40a8b499ae134da762b8a12eb9243be0314f2970) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/6917111319/)
Also finally found the way to integrate the images from Flickr!
So, on the first raw, driver tubes, from left to right: Tung-Sol 12au7, RCA 12bh7a, Mullard ECC82, RCA 12au7a "clear top".
The second raw, power tubes, for now: RCA 6as7g, stock GE 6080.
The combination I'm using now is the 6as7g & 12bh7a which I find to be bass heavy.
2nd setup is 6as7g & ECC82. - cleaner and airer sound.
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That's a cool picture. It is fun roling tubes, because I find it is such an easy way to change the sound of an amp.
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OK, at the end I've ordered the triad choke from http://www.alliedelec.com/. Thanks Grainger49!
What's the bypass caps value that everyone is using? will Solen 2.2uF 400V MKP Film Capacitor be good enough?
LA
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OK, at the end I've ordered the triad choke from http://www.alliedelec.com/. Thanks Grainger49!
What's the bypass caps value that everyone is using? will Solen 2.2uF 400V MKP Film Capacitor be good enough?
LA
Bypass for the last PS cap? I think it's a matter of experimentation. No fixed rule. There was a recent thread where a member commented that he didnt like the regular MKP's there and that he used, I believe, a .01 or .1uf Audiocap theta. Personally, I didnt hear any difference at all with a very low value cap. I tried small Audiocap Thetas, Dayton Film and Foil and a couple other general low value MKP caps and and didnt hear a difference until I used a higher value cap. In my case it was first a Panasonic 2.0 or 2.2uf MKP cap which was all I had at the time. It was pretty subtle but noticeable and I think that it cleaned up the high end just a hair. I have just swapped that out to a Mundorf MKP 2.2uf a few days ago. If it's any better than the Panasonic, I can't say with any confidence that I can hear it. Based on what I tried, I think a Solen, Axon, Mundorf or any decent MKP cap in the 2.2uf range would probably be a benefit. Again, pretty subtle but inexpensive and easy to implement. A teflon or a higher end cap may even help further but I havent tried it. In fact, I think Grainger likes the Russian teflon caps for PS bypass in general (he doesnt have a Crack amp) and lots of other applications.
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Installed the Triad Choke today:
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm7.staticflickr.com%2F6117%2F6998023971_26938c9050.jpg&hash=87ffee5b6470908b6936d876556952bbe348e2b7) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/6998023971/)
Is it possible that I get better separation and clarity or is it my ears dreaming?
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Looking into building my own cables for my headphones: HD600 and HD25
And also an interconnect cable for the crack.
I've already ordered wires, techflex, plug, etc.
the wire I've choose is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120868369561?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2642wt_1185 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/120868369561?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2642wt_1185)
I've planning to shield the interconnect wire with a copper braid. so my question is where do I connect it to?
1. Is the crack ground a virtual one? meaning I can connect the shield to the chassis (real ground) and it'll be separated from the signal?
2. just connect it to the signal (-) ground on one side only?
3. connect it both ends as the (-) signal?
4. leave it alone you don't need it.
Thanks,
Lior
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Lior, I have always been told to connect the shield only to the source side. If you look at some commercial interconnects they have directional arrows on them, that is why. You don't want the interconnects grounded to the Crack's chassis, that is why the RCA jacks are insulated and isolated from the top plate. For headphone cable you would connect the shield to the ground of the trs, xlr or whatever you use to terminate the cable. If you connect the shield to the destination, (Crack or headphones), you will get a bunch of hum. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Shawn