Bottlehead Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: butchbass on March 26, 2012, 02:51:56 PM
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I was reading the posts on the Bottlehead power cord kit regarding the use of a power conditioner. I built one I found on the internet.
Here is the link, http://www.enjoythemusic.com/Magazine/sound_practices/4/line_conditioner.htm
When I first started using it it seemed that the music was more clean and vivid. I use the Belden aluminum foil shielded power cord. I also wired up a remote power switch using Neutrik AC connectors that connect the switch to the conditioner box. The box is built of Baltic birch plywood and I have the switch mounted under my desk so I can cut my whole system on with the one switch.
I would be interested in any comments from those who are learned in AC power conditioner theory. I use Pass and Seymour spec grade outlets.
I think I spent around $120.00 or so for all the components.
I need some longer cords for my Paramours because I reconfigured my system layout. I will probably buy the Bottlehead power cord kit and give it a try.
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(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FFor%2520Posts%2520Private%2FWorthless.gif&hash=eb09a03c9f586b793ea632a3cedd3424079e1414)
Paully built one, I watched. He used it for a while and hopefully he will chime in with his impressions.
His used two inductors, one each in the hot and neutral lines. These should remove any high frequency noise in the line. Since inductors buck a rapid change in current these inductors should fill in minor notches as well as strongly attenuate any spikes riding on the 60 Hz. Like the inductors block high frequencies the caps from hot to neutral shunt high frequencies. All of this is a good thing for filtering the power to your/our system(s).
The wooden case is new to me. I'm guessing, without reading the link, that it has to do with magnetic coupling of noise.
MOVs are sacrificial devices. I'm not for fusing them since they are extremely cheap and it is obvious when they have been hit. An over voltage puts a hole in them. I've seen an MOV that was nothing but the lead wires, the whole disk was sacrificed!
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I built the wooden case just because I like to work with wood and Baltic birch is fun to work with. It is easy to customize. I need to learn how to post pictures so I can show it to you.
Do you suggest I take the fuses out of the MOV flow path?
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I will PM a tutorial on posting pictures.
The fuse/MOV is between Neutral and Ground. They are bonded, tied together, at the service panel. So there should be very little voltage difference between the two; the MOV must be for a lightning strike. I would jump the fuses.
Maybe someone else can see a reason for fusing these MOVs.
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My question for Grainger is: Your post is at 4:30AM! Are you just waking up, or had you just came in! I wouldnt be asking except for your exceptional use of graphics! I would guess you are just getting home. Just a hunch (disclaimer: I admit I have posted while 'under the influence').
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I get up at 5:00 EDT. If I post at 5:30 it might show 4:30 where you are. By then I have some coffee in me. I see 7:30 AM.
And now I'm getting ready to shower and go to bed. If you get up that early you have to go to bed early.
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Man, I thought the whole point of retiring was you could sleep in ;)...John
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My wife still works and gets up at that hour. I think it is nice to be with her that early.
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You had your chance Granger! - You could have woven a good yarn out of that one! I know, my life is pretty damn boring too..
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I don't have enough imagination to have spun a good one. I'm an engineer.
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This is an old thread but I want to share an experience. My Power Plant Premier died a few weeks ago (my fault) so I've been getting my power directly from the grid. It came back today and I immediately put it in the chain. The difference is amazing. More of everything.
I've seen PPPs in good sgape for less than 1k. I highly recommend them.