Bottlehead Forum
General Category => Tech Tools => Topic started by: 4krow on April 29, 2013, 10:25:01 AM
-
So ok, a new idea came across my mind: "What is the strangest tool in your collection?" Mine would have to be this set of 'sidewinder' pliers, made in the 1870's , and designed to work in tight spots. It cuts wire, and handles small pieces using a handle that can be more easily manipulated with one hand. The 'snakey' part of the handle is where you place your thumb. To open the jaws, push your thumb forward, and the top of the jaw opens. pulling with your thumb does the opposite. I think that I will hang on to these for awhile. Got them from Lee Valley tools.
-
Ok, it's ok, I know your scared, so I have another example:
For those of you that haven't guessed, this is an electricians screwdriver. It's before the advent of battery powered screwdrivers, and was quicker to use than a regular screwdriver. So, when putting those annoying screws into wall plates/switches/etc. you could crank them in with this.
-
I picked up a "backwards" pair of tweezers at Michael's Art Supply a while back and they're become a huge help.
By backwards, I mean that you have to squeeze the handle to open the jaws and when you release it, the spring action holds the jaws tight.
The "jaws" come to a sharp point so you can get it into microscopic areas but you have to be careful not to damage components.
Because the jaws stay closed and are angled, you can use them to hold nuts for hard to access areas below stuff like XLR chassis jacks or in a tight spot, a heat sink.
I just looked closely at them and they're called "Tweezer Bee".
You can pick them up on Amazon but IIRC, they were cheaper at Michaels (hey, but what's a buck now days?)
http://www.amazon.com/EK-Success-Inch-Tweezer-Bee/dp/B000LXA5KG
-
O.M.G.! I need to get one of those sidewinder pliers. I work on boats all the time installing sails that have locknuts and pins to attatch in obnoxious places. Looks like it might be more ergonomic than the needle nose I use when using a hand palm and needle. Oh yeah, for making Bottlehead kits too. :)
-
A weird drill from China for cutting holes in aluminum. AAND, is this Obbligato cap real or fake?
-
Greg,
You are many things, but on the available evidence, a gifted photographer is not one of them... ;D
I'm pretty curious in that thigamajig, since I need to cut some holes in aluminum soon, too. What is it and where did you get it?
Thanks!
Adam
-
I think I have some old drill stops that look similar from the 70s.
Obbligato used to have 4 series of caps. There were the power supply caps, the Black Film/Oil, Gold Premium and the Copper that fit between the black and gold.
I think those are real.
-
oh but i AM a gifted foto guy. i used some film in a box with a small hole in it.
anyway, i got the hole saw from vt4c i think the name is. they are in China but have reasonable prices on some things and good service. this one was $6
thanks G for the update. it is indeed a copper series cap.
-
Adam, before I forget, I have had pretty good luck with a step bit in some cases. Just pre-drill a 1/4" hole and let the bit do the rest.
-
That's good, because I just bought 5 stepped drill bits. ;D Used one of them last night to widen the volume pot hole in my Quickie to accept a stepped attenuator. Of course, the acrylic chassis of the Quickie isn't much of a challenge for a drill bit!
Best,
Adam
-
Adam,
in my opinion, the acrylic top of the Quickie needs to be handled by the best bit possible, and though it is not a challenge to cut through, some bits might bind and crack it. The step bit is an excellent choice because it disperses the tension around the cutting edge more evenly, making less chance of binding. If you are cutting plates that are not too thick(maybe 3/16", I think that it is hard to beat a step bit. If you need a clean hole in something thicker, maybe a hole saw bit would be a better bet. I don't use regular drill bits that often anymore in metal seeing the crappy results obtained, and the time it takes to drill several sizes up to get the exact diameter you need. But then, there is probably something that I don't know about drilling with a regular bit, or don't have a machine that will drill slow enough.
-
You know what they say...it's better to be lucky than good. ;) ;D I managed to get through the Quickie plate without any problem. Fortunately, I took it slowly, heeded Paul's advice to leave the protective cover on and to ensure the plate was supported, and didn't have to widen the hole much at all. I've never used a stepped bit before, but I have to say I've very happy with the results so far. They seem very practical and this set is apparently well-received by those who regularly work with them. My bits are double-flanged...I wonder if that helps to avoid binding?
Best regards,
Adam
-
Sorry, didn't mean to write double-flanged. What I meant is that they have two flutes. I wonder if that helps to avoid binding...
Best,
Adam
-
Actually, in my experience one flute seems to work best. I used countersinks with severalflutes expecting the best results, but when stopped that and used a single fluted countersink the results were by far better. I am comparing countersinking to using a stepped bit because of the way the stepped bit I use works, Before the hole is actually enlarged, it is proceeded by a beveled (countersunk) edge that reams the the hole just before drilling it. Any stepped bit I have seen works on this idea, and I think that it is a step in the right direction(pun intended). As to how a 2 fluted step might work, only experience will tell. I do use a bit of wax lubricant in my drilling hoping that it will aid the process.