Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: jarn221 on January 11, 2014, 05:23:09 PM
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Hi all,
I've finished putting the Crack together. Everything checks out perfect with resistance checks, but when it comes to voltage checks, it seems we have no voltage for any minus the two checks that expect a reading of 1.5 (we get 1.006 and .995 respectively). The tubes glow when the unit is turned on, but no voltage besides those two exceptions.
If anyone has any suggestions, we would greatly appreciate it! Happy to provide any further information that might be helpful to diagnose. Really looking forward to getting this Crack running.
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Please list all of the DC voltages that you have. Are they all zero?
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Thanks for your reply. Yes, they are all zero, with exception to A4 and A8, which yielded 1.006 and .995 respectively.
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What do the batteries read? Try from one end to the other (they are all in series) rather taking each out and measuring.
My mistake this is a Crack, no batteries.
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As an update, the values for all terminals:
Terminal 12 to
1 -0.54
2 -0.55
3 0
4 -0.55
5 -0.54
6 0
7 0
8 0
9 0
10 0
11 0
12 0
14 -0.54
15 0
20 0
21 -0.56
A1 -0.55
A2 0
A3 0.80
A4 0
A5 0
A6 -0.55
A7 0
A8 0.83
A9 0
B1 -0.55
B2 -0.55
B3 0
B4 -0.55
B5 -0.55
B6 0
B7 0
B8 0
When you reference the batteries, what do you refer to?
Also, could this be a transformer problem? Is there any way to test the PT3 transformer to see if it is functioning?
Thanks!
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Jarn,
I was thinking this was a Quickie, not a Crack. There are no batteries to worry about.
You have no voltage from the high voltage section of the transformer. Try measuring AC voltage from the transformer terminal 1 to terminal 2. Assuming you are here, that should be 124V AC plus or minus a couple of volts. If not the fuse or wiring to the switch is a problem.
If you get that (or 240V AC if you are overseas) then check from transformer terminal 6 to terminal 7. You should read about 150 V AC.
Notice, both these readings are AC not DC.
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Thanks, we just gave these a shot.
From 1 to 2 we have 123V, so this seems fine.
From 6 to 7 we have 176.6V
and for reference, 9 to 10 we have 176.6V and 4 to 5 we have 5.6V.
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Your transformer is working properly.
What's the DC voltage between 20 and 21?
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The DC voltage between 20 and 21 is 0.54.
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Do you have a red and a black wire going to T17 and T18?
Can you post a photo of the power supply in your Crack?
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We have a black wire on 18 but no red or black wires on 17. Only thing on 17 is a UF4007. Attached some images I hope are helpful!
EDIT: Images wouldn't load locally, but uploaded them both here: http://imgur.com/pFSuvjg,uD4IImT
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Check over the manual. Terminal 17 is supposed to be completely empty.
-PB
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Awesome, thank you so much!
After making the changes, these are the voltages we measure. Are these reasonable? Some seem a bit low.
Terminal 12 to
1 78
2 174
3 0
4 170
5 76
6 0
7 103
8 0
9 101
10 0
11 0
12 0
13 174
14 0
15 196
20 0
21 198
A1 78
A2 0
A3 1.5
A4 0
A5 0
A6 78
A7 0
A8 1.5
A9 0
B1 74
B2 175
B3 104
B4 74
B5 175
B6 101
B7 0
B8 0
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I think you're ready to give it a listen!
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Thank you so much for your help! We really really appreciate it. It sounds great! We're about to put in the Speedball upgrade.
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Welp, it appears that there's another problem when installing Speedball. We've double checked the instructions of Speedball three times now, and we can't find anything wrong/missing with Speedball wiring.
There seems to be no power from 12 to 1 and 5. Currently, the D1 LED is not lighting, nor are the LEDs on the small "A" tube are not lit. (In total 3 LEDs not lit.) The rest of the LEDs are on. When it comes to voltage checks, here are the numbers we had from testing.
From 12-
1 0
2 181.8
3 0
4 181.8
5 0
6 0
7 63.8
8 0
9 63.8
10 0
11 0
12 0
13 182
14 0
15 189
19 -50.5
20 0
A1 0
A2 0
A3 0.7
A4 0
A5 0
A6 0
A7 0
A8 0.7
A9 0
B1 75
B2 182
B3 65
B4 0
B5 180
B6 60.9
B7 0
B8 0
Thank you so much again, and sorry for the problems.
EDIT: Opening new thread since this is a separate topic.