Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: xcoolhandx on March 08, 2014, 12:07:05 PM
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Replaced stock pot the other day with Alps Blue velvet and I'm not to happy ..don't know if this is some cheap knock off or what ,but the volume is lower and the soundstage is gone so I would appreciate some recommendations..
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Put the one you took off back on.
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yes ..I did and order one more to try ..I might end up running stock since I'm pretty satisfied with it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301097566671?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
this is the stock ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150471596752?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
P.S. how is your bathtub calk holding Daytons ?..thinking about doing calk myself ,my caps keep separating from the plate ::)
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So far so good. I have left it running for hours too and we all know how warm they get.
Just checked again, nice and firm. It's really a combo "stick" job. I used some of that heavy duty 3M double stick tape, the black stuff and then a fillet of the bathtub caulk.
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good to hear ...I might try this first
http://www.parts-express.com/5-minute-two-part-epoxy-adhesive-45-oz-kit--340-650
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If you had a hot glue gun I expect that would work well for extra sticking of the cable tie pads. Even the low temperature hot glue guns require around 120°C and the high temp ones close to 200 °C to melt the glue. its not going to go anywhere at 50 -60°C imho. They can also give a very nasty burn if your not careful but are just so handy.
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I was going to order this for another project pictured here and might just order it now and use it if the other epoxy (I already have this ) won't work ,this is by far the best bonding choice
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/633-diy-case-mod-guide-corsair-900d-front-grill/
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-Adhesive-DP190-Translucent/dp/B0074N8N3W/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371558594&sr=1-1&keywords=scotchweld+dp190
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Bonds wood, aluminum, glass and ceramics.
Fast setting. High shear strength.
Temperature range is -67°F to 300°F.
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The 3m adhesive is very good but you need to prep the metal well with epoxy adhesives. Plexus adhesive is amazing stuff if you don't want something to come unstuck.
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Thank you Jamie
..back on topic ..what is the stock potentiometer on Crack ??
P.S. my 400s "kick the bucket" ..they couldn't handle all that crack :) ....HD 650 inbound ..hope I like it
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We do offer a companion product to the Crack that we believe is the finest level control on the market...
(It also gives you three additional inputs)
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We do offer a companion product to the Crack that we believe is the finest level control on the market...
(It also gives you three additional inputs)
and what would that be ?
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and what would that be ?
http://bottlehead.com/?product=submissive-volumesource-control-kit
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^^ Thanks Kris ,Ill pass ..was just wondering what would be recommended/equivalent replacement for stock pot that's all ,I guess I won't get straight answer
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There are numerous threads about pot replacements in the Crack folder. Do a quick search on "pot" or "attenuator" and you will probably find a hundred hits.
There is a PEC pot that is popular, there is a TDK pot, Goldpoint attenuators, Bent Audio attenuators, attenuators from Varlab (can't quite remember the name) and handshare electronics on ebay.
The word is to buy discrete resistors not SMD resistors. The leaded resistors sound the best.
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thanks 49
I think I will be able to pick one out of three
Noble AP25 Dual 100K
Alpha (this one looks like a stock)
and I just ordered PEC POT 100K OHM 2W DUAL LOG TAPER
P.S. thanks for enlarging text :o
as for resistors on phone jack ,will this work ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271111995998?_trksid=p2048036
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221372130207?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
one more thing ..if anyone is interested in a sweet base for Crack let me know
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The first link goes to carbon film resistors, state of the art in the 70s but you would want metal film today. The metal film is more stable at higher temperatures found in tubed equipment.
The second ones seem to be metal film but I can not find any indication of the makeup in the auction.
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I wouldnt be crazy about either. The PRP are generally well spoken of but those listed are the general purpose range http://www.prpinc.com/?mod=product&id=2 (http://www.prpinc.com/?mod=product&id=2) and not their audio range http://www.prpinc.com/?mod=product&id=5 (http://www.prpinc.com/?mod=product&id=5). What the difference is i dont know as both are metal film.
I have used the PR9372's in the past but personally i would just stick with regular Dale Rn55 resistors, at least they are a known quantity when used in the audio path. Having said that i am not sure if they are in the audio path once a headphone is inserted into the socket, in which case anything will do.
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this looks like direct replacement (Dale Rn55 ) but only 1/8W
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/RN55D2491FB14/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugp4AYbWju4Dc4CSf%2fRjVO%252b6UyJ%2f2s%252bRpk%3d
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Or RN60, slightly larger and easier to work with http://ie.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RN60C2491FB14/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG33BaVfMIgUs153ESpsMIJY%3d (http://ie.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RN60C2491FB14/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG33BaVfMIgUs153ESpsMIJY%3d)
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they both 1/8W instead of 1/4 ..wouldn't this be a problem ?
Thank you
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Should be fine, or is a 1/4w listed in the manual?
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Should be fine, or is a 1/4w listed in the manual?
yes it's listed in manual
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It will be fine, the Mil spec Dales are under rated so the 1/8w items are actually 1/4w, and 1/4w are actually 1/2w etc. See here http://www.vishay.com/docs/31027/cmfmil.pdf (http://www.vishay.com/docs/31027/cmfmil.pdf) vs the non Mil range http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/cmfind-239942.pdf (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/427/cmfind-239942.pdf).
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One tenth of a watt would be fine here. The current is minimal.
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anyone have Noble AP25 hooked up to Crack ?
this should be same wiring as blue velvet right ?
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This is how I did it:
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Thank you
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I like this PEC so much I might wait a bit before trying Noble ,also attached Dytons little different
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I didn't want to open up another thread for this but I like to know what I can use to reapply lacquer on transformer ,I was reading somewhere that that the transformer is coated with some type of lacquer mixed with stain ..can someone please tell me what kind of lacquer/stain ?
Thank you
EDIT; I try to order BH badge the other day ...No shipping methods were found; please recalculate your shipping or continue to checkout and enter your full address to see if there is shipping available to your location.
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I like this PEC so much I might wait a bit before trying Noble ,also attached Dytons little different
I've been a fan of PEC pots for years. Reasonably priced and great sounding.
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I like this PEC so much I might wait a bit before trying Noble ,also attached Dytons little different
I've been a fan of PEC pots for years. Reasonably priced and great sounding.
I had three to try Noble AP25 included ..tried PEC and never got to the other two ..very nice
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Kind of confused at what you are trying to do with lacquer on transformer. Do you just want to refinish it with a clear lacquer of use a colour? Plenty of engine paints and enamels that will handle the heat without any problems. Hammerite range should all be ok and should be easy to find they also do a radiator paint range and a high heat one for wood burning stoves in a aerosol that's good for 600 degrees Celsius.
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Kind of confused at what you are trying to do with lacquer on transformer. Do you just want to refinish it with a clear lacquer of use a colour? Plenty of engine paints and enamels that will handle the heat without any problems. Hammerite range should all be ok and should be easy to find they also do a radiator paint range and a high heat one for wood burning stoves in a aerosol that's good for 600 degrees Celsius.
I was trying to re-apply same lacquer that was mixed with black stain ( I think Doc B. or someone else mention this in one of the threads ,can't find it now) but since you mention paint I might go with that ..any links ?
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Ebay is easy enough to search for radiator of engine paints. If you only wanted a small amount what about checking the specs on those small pots the model makers use.
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The stock bell end is just covered with a kind of sticky protective coating to slow down rusting. What we do is clean it well with acetone and then spray it with an acrylic satin clear coat. If you want to add color you can blue the steel with Birchwood Casey Super Blue before you apply the clear coat.
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As far as painting the bell end... Can I also paint the underside of the bell to prevent from rust or it's not recommended due to proper grounding?
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As far as painting the bell end... Can I also paint the underside of the bell to prevent from rust or it's not recommended due to proper grounding?
Yes! As long as you use the star washers, the ground will be good. I use Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy paint. Made for direct to metal application, no primer. If you apply paint heavily, I would scratch though at the hole to ensure a good ground.
It is probably just me, but I hate to see unfinished bell caps!!! >:(
Cheers,
Geary
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Thanks Geary
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Yes! As long as you use the star washers, the ground will be good. I use Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy paint. Made for direct to metal application, no primer. If you apply paint heavily, I would scratch though at the hole to ensure a good ground.
It is probably just me, but I hate to see unfinished bell caps!!! >:(
Cheers,
Geary
Geary your not alone. Also what's with the extra set of middle holes on the bell cap? Though I do really like the blueing having the extra holes Kind of looks wrong to me and was a good enough reason for me to covered my bell housing so they didn't show.
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I used Rustoleum Clear Gloss on my bell and chokes with great success, was easy to apply and left a nice flat shiny finish. Also has has no issues with the temperatures.
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some very helpful posts ,Thanks everyone ;)