Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: prtuc2 on April 12, 2014, 06:03:32 AM
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Hello Everyone,
This is my first post in the forum. I just received my BH Crack Kit yesterday and started to install the kit, however, running into a little problem here. On the instruction manual page 18 and page 19, according to the picture and instructions provided the Octal socket B terminal suppose to have a upper and lower hole compartment where as my kit only has one big hole compartment. Not sure should I proceed the upper and lower wiring going into the same hole or I got a wrong part?
Thanks in advance,
Gary
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Hello Gary,
Yes, there are indeed some parts variations occasionally that are required to keep units moving out the door.
Luckily, only B7/B8 have more than one wire connected to them. What you can do is to make the first set of connections, then just use a tiny bit of solder on them, then make the second connection.
As always, less is more with soldering. I recommend not attempting to "fill holes" while you build. The ideal amount of solder will fill in the space between the wire and what you have it wrapped around, and not much more.
-PB
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Thank you PB for the quick reply, for a first time builder I will try my best to avoid over-saturated the hole with solder :'(.
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Another quick question on page 19 where it say solder A4 and A5, but mine looks like it is molded together.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000238_zpsec42e27b.jpg&hash=39fbef9682e4a317fe5e7153b71e739b79697b98)
Is that going to be problematic? Thanks again everyone.
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If the solder lugs are soldered together, when you to go stick a tube in, the pins will have a hard time going into the socket. Do your best to move those apart with your pliers.
Also, on the black wire going to A9, that is loads more than 1/4" (6mm) of insulation stripped off. I would remove that wire, trim the wire so that only 1/4" of bare wire is exposed, then reattach it.
As it is now, the wire going to A9 could end up jostling into A1, which would immediately blow your fuse if the Crack was powered on.
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Thanks once again PB, now I got more problems. On page 19 it said to connected black wire from terminal 4 to terminal 22L, however I read the red text so I connect the black wire from terminal 4 to terminal 14U. Now 22L is completely free of wire is that right?
Second part of the problem is that my resistance value kind of confusing.
All the * values terminal I got OL as reading on my multimeter, according to the manual zero is no good. My terminal 13 also shown OL instead of 270k ohms which means I probably going to resolder that terminal. One last problem I can't find the center pin for the RCA jacks so I can't obtain a value.
Thanks for the help once again.
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There is a note somewhere in the checkout that different meters will act differently on the terminals marked with *.
Many meters read "OL" for these points. That means it is too high to measure. So you have good readings there.
There should be a resistor from terminal 13 to terminal 12. It should give the 270k Ohm reading. So touch up both 12 and 13.
The center pins of the RCA jacks are where the red and white wires that go to the volume control come from. They are at the right back corner.
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Thanks Grainger49 for your input, but I am still not sure of the RCA center pins so I upload a picture maybe that can clarify better.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FRCA_zps136279c6.jpg&hash=64f93192cebd8b060a4c9457172491bbb61caa4a)
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Yes! That is what is meant by center pins. Be certain that the solder on the center pin doesn't touch the outer part of it. There is a white (?) insulator between the center and outer conductors.
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On page 11 of the manual there is a pointer say there is a white washer located between the each side of the chassis, unless I did it wrong?
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Am I suppose to get 90-100K ohms on both side? I only got 103K ohms from the red RCA side and the white RCA I got 0 resistance.
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The white RCA is shorted as I warned above. Any resistance reading or voltage reading is considered within specification as long as it is plus or minus 15% of the stated value.
So 103k Ohms is right on target.
Now you need to find the short in the left (white) channel. It will probably be on the RCA jack. Possibly at the volume control.
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From the photos, it looks possible that the left jack is shorted due to the excess solder.
You will want to check that with a meter to be sure. Measure from your solder blob to the lower part of the jack that is soldered to the black wire.
You should see 90-110K here.
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I remove the solder and now it measure to 99k Ohms, now I am struck at the voltage instruction.
Clip the fuse into the fuse cover and insert the cover into the power entry module
Assuming the little silver/white little tube with a filament inside is the fuse? Not sure how I can fit it into the power entry module without damaging it. Any pictures or video instructions would be greatly appreciate.
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Part of the power entry module slides out. If you look at the back of the module, you'll see a hole where you can use a small screw driver to press this part out.
On the top side, there is a little engraving of a fuse on this part, and a flat head screw driver can be used to pry it out.
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The amplifier doesn't start up at all and now I am puzzle. All the resistance values are within 10-15% and I follow all the steps on the voltage check before plugging into anything. No smoke or it seems no current is running through the amp, tubes and any parts of the amp does not get warm at all.
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The fuse needs to be in the lower section of the fuse holder. Is that where you installed it?
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As shown here:
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Thanks, that was the problem I install the fuse in the upper compartment. Now everything powers on, but my voltage reading left me worry.
Most of the 90V reading I got somewhere between 70-72.5V that is outside of the 15% range, but my B1 reading start off at 1.8V now slowly climbing to 6V as I type is that sign of bad soldering? The reading move very slow.
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T1/T5 being in the 70's is just a sign of a very strong 12AU7, and is not a problem.
B1 connects to T1, you won't get 70V on T1 without 70V on B1 unless there is a miswire, or potentially if you have mounted the 8 pin socket with the keyway facing an improper direction.
-PB
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On the second time power up I was able get B1 to hit the low 70s voltage. I noticed I was having a little hard time inserting the RCA cable into the white RCA jack, then as I use my headphone to test out the amplifier something new happen. At the first 2 minutes of the song everything seems fine, then I start hearing crackling sound then eventually shortly after the right channel of my headphone completely gone. I re-test the headphone on my other amplifier it is still functional, but now I have a new problem to solve.
Thanks for any input.
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I check over the resistance values and the voltage values after the crackling sound heard, voltages are closer to the actual values now. Could it be a bad tube? If the problem is the tube do I need an adapter to use 5998 or other tube like 6SN7 type of tube?
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This is usually a flaky solder joint.
-PB
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It seems the more I do the more problems I am running into.
The first thing I did was to resolder all the terminals that doesn't have a shiny finish and I redo the RCA center pins area but I might have mess it up. Inside the center pins there is some solder left over that I can't remove so I just place the white cable into that RCA jack.
Then I recheck the resistance and voltage values all within range. Right before I try to turn off the amp and in the process I noticed the led on A3 and A8 both went out. I proceed connecting to the DAC and headphone in place to check for sound. No sound at all.
I power down the amp and unplug the power cord, checking the resistance values now show OL in most of the terminals. So, lost in what is going on. Not sure if the multimeter playing trick or I am doing something terribly wrong.
Thanks for any input.
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Do the tubes still glow?
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Yes, the tubes seems fine. The voltage and resistance reading is hit or miss sometimes I got the values all within range, next time I measure it will be different.
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I would recommend reporting any resistance readings that are not correct.
-PB
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This measurement is taken more than 8 hours after I power down my amp and with the tubes inserted.
Resistance
1 >1000K ohms
2 >1000K ohms
3 OL
4 >1000k ohms
5 >1000k ohms
6-10 OL
12 0.2 ohms
13 >800k ohms, but slowly dropping my meter can't get the actual value on this terminal less than 10mins
14 0.5 ohms
20 0.2 ohms
22 OL <---? I didn't solder this on page 19 under revision I connected to 14U instead
B3 OL
B6 OL
RCA ground OL
Center OL
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Terminal 3 is connected to the chassis plate.
A wire goes from 12 to the lower set of lugs on the headphone jack, then from there to terminal 3.
Getting OL between 12 and 3 means that this wire is not connected.
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Thanks for the all the help so far, now everything is up and running. But, on the right channel of my headphone there is a pop sound like every 30 seconds, what could be the problem?
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Also heard noises like blowing wind rushing or blowing into the headphone causing noise like static.
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This sounds a lot like a cold solder joint or a loose wire.
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I got everything up and running for a few days. Eventually got the speedball upgrade install as well. The first two days the amplifier sounds great, however today as I turn on the amp I noticed the sounds so weak on the left channel and no sound on the right channel.
I measure the VDC voltages and the reading:
Terminal Voltage
1 2.8
2 45
3 0
4 45
5 40
6 0
7 0?
8 0
9 37
10 0
11 0
12 0
13 44
14 0
15 116
20 0
21 186
All the values are below the range, the capacitor between terminal 14 and 15 feels much hotter than all the other parts of the amp. I noticed the heat generate between the two terminals actually melt the solder iron on terminal 15 and the 270k Ohms resistor connecting to terminal 15 is loose in the process. Also saw a burn mark around terminal 14 and 15, the capacitor
Which is an appropriate step to go from here?
Appreciate any input.
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Something in the circuit is sucking down a crapton of current.
Start by running the amp without the 6080, then remeasure the voltages.
If they are all still low, remove the red wire from terminal 13, then run the amp and measure the voltages on the two 6 lug switches.
If you have a cap that's getting really hot, that generally happens when they are in backwards.
Do also be aware that without tubes in the amp, the power supply will take an unusually long time to discharge.
I suspect you have a loose part shorting two adjacent terminals, but the tests above will help narrow down where the issue is.
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Here is my reading without the 6080 tube:
Terminal Voltage
1 63
2 224
3 0
4 224
5 64
6 0
7 0 <<--- should be around 100 still got no voltage here
8 0
9 1.5 <<-- should be 100, voltage very low
10 0
11 0
12 0
13 224
14 0
15 230
20 0
21 236
I noticed two thing when I was taken the voltage, there is a big spark when I was taking reading on terminal 3 not sure if I was touching something else is little tight in the area. There is heat is normal this time on terminal 15 where the soldering iron didn't melt. The capacitor is facing the right direction, striped side on terminal 14 and non-striped side on terminal 15.
Thanks again for the help.
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OK, these voltages are correct, and indicate that there is an issue present with the 6080 tube installed.
Can you shoot a picture of the octal socket wiring?
-PB
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(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000258_zpscaac891f.jpg&hash=7446370606af2902cbe89d4be5884180295cbc0c) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000258_zpscaac891f.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000248_zps84814f12.jpg&hash=c1c661b1bbc8727af887f7ea48493b4a9e4a4f42) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000248_zps84814f12.jpg.html)
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(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000246_zpsf5f65b4c.jpg&hash=5f77256e0c04598ba05d352165cbc6ee3fee023c) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000246_zpsf5f65b4c.jpg.html)
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Are both the upper and lower black wires on B7 soldered the lower one is hard to see?
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They are not solder together, sorry I always having trouble taking pictures with my camera not sure if that is skill related or need to get a better camera. My pictures always come out darker than expected.
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Ah, I had forgotten that you have the Speedball installed.
Can you measure the resistance between the chassis plate and each TIP-50 metal tab?
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I just take the top of the TIP50, the underside is a little hard to take.
TIP 50 closer to the octa-socket:
Top resistor OL
Mid resistor 0 ohms
Low resistor 600k ohms
TIP 50 closer to the A-socket
Top resistor 500k ohms
Mid resistor >1000k ohms
Low resistor OL
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I'd snap a photo of the bottom of the larger PCB.
For some reason, when activated, that board is allowing excessive current draw.
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(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000260_zpsaa7c1928.jpg&hash=0972a545e4c90d2c7b352377598ea959711f4336) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000260_zpsaa7c1928.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000261_zpse7501137.jpg&hash=223f05ff8ff76799d0c5f33b41175405511904f3) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000261_zpse7501137.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000262_zps2533bda1.jpg&hash=4beae88881f14178f5bd62578c17bb9861d1f256) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000262_zps2533bda1.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2Fdownload_zpseb4b06aa.jpg&hash=e09ca67afd0185373bd0a899330b290dc1f9e3d1) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/download_zpseb4b06aa.jpg.html)
Sorry I know is hard to see with that pictures, that is the best I got for now. I will upload some more if I get get better pictures.
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There's a fair amount of extra solder on the bottom there. It wouldn't be surprising if one of the 2N2222A's had two pins sorted together.
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I resolder the 2N2222A on both side
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000265_zps6502cf33.jpg&hash=bae8ed6bbc09546a9ac3caf7270c2cc33c751fbe) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000265_zps6502cf33.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2Fphoto_zps9c6f4815.jpg&hash=1267d1b3348e5cd40688af8a6618bdf151be3679) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/photo_zps9c6f4815.jpg.html)
I got the same resistance value as before.
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Any inputs?
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I would suspect that there was a short circuit present here.
In all likelihood, replacing the four transistors on that board would likely be helpful.
-PB
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Is it possible to get it from bottlehead? I don't want to order the wrong parts and more troubles.
And I already re-solder the back PCB board as you see in the previous post with the two PCB board pictures.
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Sure, you can contact replacementparts(At)Bottlehead(doht)com
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I just contact bottlehead for parts replacement for 2 of the 2N2222A transistors and the 2 TIP-50 transistors on the large PCB if that is correct?
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That should do the trick.
-PB
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Is this what a blown fuse looks like?
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FIMG_8711_zps50390e96.jpg&hash=3d83641ec16a5ef490bcba424d6718d4a6888554) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/IMG_8711_zps50390e96.jpg.html)
The amp won't power on at all, the picture doesn't show very clear. There is a streak of dot silver line along the side of the fuse.
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You can measure the resistance of the fuse with your meter. A blow fuse will be over the limit that your meter can measure, a good fuse will present a low resistance.
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All my resistance values are way above normal. Only a few terminals are within limit.
Terminal 1 above 3000k ohms
Terminal 2 800k ohms
Terminal 3 0
Terminal 4 5000k ohms
.... etc..
Except Terminal 6 and Terminal 10, most of the values are way above the values of the instruction manual.
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Can you provide an example of a resistance that's problematic? Your report of terminals 1-4 look spot on.
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Terminal 1 3500k ohms
Terminal 2 1000k ohms
Terminal 3 0
Terminal 4 1000k ohms
Terminal 5 3500k ohms
Terminal 6 2.494k ohms
Terminal 7 0 <<<< suppose to be 2.9k ohms?
Terminal 8 0
Terminal 9 OL <<<< suppose to be 2.9k ohms?
Terminal 10 2.494k ohms
Terminal 12 0
Terminal 13 1000k ohms
Terminal 14 0
Terminal 20 0
Terminal 22 0
B3 0 << suppose to be 2.9k ohms on the crack not sure on the sb upgrade is the same values
B6 OL << suppose to be 2.9k ohms
RCA ground lug: 0
Center pin: 100 ohms
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Does this Crack have a Speedball installed?
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Yes, this is with the speedball upgrade install resistance values. As I double check the soldering joint, so far no luck. I will continue to check on the joint connection.
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If the Crack was working pre-Speedball, then there are no resistance checks to do after installing the Speedball (as indicated by the manual).
If you started with a dysfunctional Crack and installed a Speedball, you will need to remove the Speedball and remedy the original build first.
-PB
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Crack w/o the speedball upgrade works fine for 1 day, then I upgrade the speedball. The speedball upgrade works fine initially, but after 3rd days on terminal 14U the soldering iron starts melting and the right channel is completely out and after some recommendations you told me to get replacement parts for the 4 transistors for the larger PCB board for the speedball upgrade. Now I can't seems to power up the amp.
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Hmm, try running the amp without the 6080 to see if the voltages at terminals 1-5 look to be about correct.
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Terminal 1-5 voltages shown as 0. The 6080 tube is taken out and the 12AU7 tube isn't lighten up either. I am sure there is power cause I got a shock accidentally touching the power supply.
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If the 12AU7 isn't glowing, then there is an issue with the twisted pair of wires going from power transformer terminals 4 and 5 to B7/B8 and A4,5/A9.
We have been seeing some builders lately who accidentally cut one of the wires coming out of the transformer itself, so that's worth looking at as well.
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I recheck those terminals and found the A9 wires snap off when I pull on it, then I resolder that terminal same result.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000271_zpsa2c0b2b9.jpg&hash=fe2c84d3e2801c275bb8661f8a7697a5adfc8360) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000271_zpsa2c0b2b9.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000275_zps87a8e6b7.jpg&hash=ce9b0477bfc19c3814bd219234909107a3d92b20) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000275_zps87a8e6b7.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000273_zpsc6f95926.jpg&hash=f9a2b7886b854ef6e5dd073205db3fd395816290) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000273_zpsc6f95926.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000274_zps4b6e1ff0.jpg&hash=7f8958f7071a833edf1b3c62e8e48613fb60926b) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000274_zps4b6e1ff0.jpg.html)
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If the 6080 is in the socket, does it glow?
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Both tubes does not glow, seems the current is not going through the socket. Matter of fact the led does not glow, before the problem occurred all the led lit up just fine.
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What is the AC voltage between power transformer terminals 4 and 5? (Put one probe on each terminal)
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Both terminal AC voltage is 0. Seems no power is going through the unit, could it be the power cord module overheat or damage?
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What about the AC voltage between power transformer terminals 1 and 2?
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All the terminals include the B socket and A socket all the AC voltages are at 0.
Except B6 and terminal 9U both show 0.588V, B6 is connected to 9U and that is the only spot on the amp actually got any voltage reading, while the rest of the amp is at 0.
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Power transformer terminals 1 and 2 receive the incoming AC line voltage. If you have 0V there, your amp isn't plugged in, your power switch is off (or melted), or your fuse is blown.
-PB
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Your picture below indicates you have the wrong orientation of the Speedball PCB board (with the large heat sinks) The printed words "TOP" should be facing south towards the 12AU7 socket and not the 6080 socket.
http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000273_zpsc6f95926.jpg.html
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I have been suspecting the power switch probably melted when I desoldering the solder iron, just going to re-order an exact pair of fuse and power switch to see if that was the problem or not.
Thanks for pointing out my large PCB is reversed, I will fix it this weekend.
Really appreciate all the help, so far.
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The board is functionally the same in either orientation, and will work provided you have the connections attached in the correct positions.
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I came across the same problem as I reversed the orientation of the Speedball PCB. The LEDs didn't work. Once I rotated the board, it worked. ???
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There is still a problem with the voltages.
Terminal 1 42V
Terminal 2 42V
Terminal 3 0
Terminal 4 42V
Terminal 5 3.3V
Terminal 6 0
Terminal 7 42V
Terminal 8 0
Terminal 9 0
Terminal 10 0
Terminal 11 0
Terminal 12 0
Terminal 13 45V
Terminal 14 0
Terminal 15 112V
I didn't finish taken the voltage on terminal 20 and 21. Since, the capacitor between terminal 14 and 15 starts to see smoke, which is the same capacitor that heats up before.
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Can you run the amp without the 6080 and post terminal 1-5 voltages?
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Here are the voltages without the 6080 tubes.
Terminal 1 63.2V
Terminal 2 213.4V
Terminal 3 0
Terminal 4 213.2V
Terminal 5 65.8V
The interesting thing is the capacitor between Terminal 14 and 15 does not even feel warm without the 6080 tube.
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This is as I expected. When the 6080 attempts to operate, it draws excessive current.
Other than a miswire on the large PC board installation, the main cause of a problem like this is the metal on the TIP50 transistors touching the heatsinks.
You should triple check the hardware on these, the shoulder washers and mounting tabs in particular need to be properly placed to keep these parts from shorting out.
-PB
(Your small boards are working perfectly BTW)
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I see my power transformer started to get oxidized and I took some pictures of the heatsink.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000372_zps971e3199.jpg&hash=64d77acb0b61878d4516c5965cf867cb315f4615) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000372_zps971e3199.jpg.html)
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(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000378_zpsf19ee27b.jpg&hash=24ee040361d3fc565cc3d37dfaf5cb2c61f23254) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000378_zpsf19ee27b.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000380_zps88fa27f3.jpg&hash=74e7db902af45fbc4f0ddbfb9f1c43e0c388a3f7) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000380_zps88fa27f3.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000382_zps126724a7.jpg&hash=e85d99e0f18879f3277cf7d15f46611cddb263d3) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000382_zps126724a7.jpg.html)
I wasn't 100% sure I got all the parts install on the heatsink correctly, since the description of fibre washer looks like at least the kit I had wasn't the exact one on the instruction packet.
I didn't understand what you meant by TIP 50 transistors touching the heatsink? Aren't they parallel to each other?
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The area of interest is not the back side of the heatsink, but rather the other side where the TIP50 mounts.
There should be an insulator pad in place, and there should be a non-conductive shoulder washer that keeps the mounting screw from touching the meta of the TIP50.
You can also measure the resistance between the TIP50 metal tab and one of the heatsink mounting solder joints on the bottom side of the board. It should read very high.
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To be at the same page I just use the pictures as an illustration.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000373_zps037fcc64.jpg&hash=fd7bebaaad1426f32923448df86eb26cae0be8c4) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000373_zps037fcc64.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000382_zps5ed30961.jpg&hash=961570137e4ad66f9844da5a113e5da07c4e2eca) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000382_zps5ed30961.jpg.html)
So, I measure the resistance value of the bottom PCB heatsink screw to the TIP 50 transistor tip. One of the TIP 50 only has one value, while the other one has two values.
For example: I measure the left tip of the transistor tip I got 2.675 M ohms, while the middle and the right side display as OL. Other TIP 50 shows left tip value as 2.670M ohms and middle tip 0.2 ohms, right side OL. Is there is reason for this?
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi828.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz208%2Fprtuc2%2FP1000383_zpsae15ac20.jpg&hash=290898076df7041d73c454fed765bb4f27a17bc3) (http://s828.photobucket.com/user/prtuc2/media/P1000383_zpsae15ac20.jpg.html)
I noticed my screw is touching directly to the TIP 50 transistor and that is the only plastic rubber I got laying around the house, is that plastic rubber going to work or I need to place an order again?
Thank you very much for the assistance.
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From your photos, you would want the resistance of the red circle in the first picture to the middle red circle in the second picture.
If you left out those white washers in your build (which we supply and instruct you to use), then you need to install them for the Speedball to operate properly.
-PB
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I would like to thank everyone who have attribute to this thread and greatly appreciate your patience. The rubber washer solve the mystery, didn't think the rubber washer was the root of the problem. Once again, greatly appreciate all the help I received on the forum.