Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: w0lfd0g on April 23, 2014, 01:59:49 PM
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There is a discussion with diagrams at the bottom of the page you linked - select the "click to show" text.
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http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/tc-ext-info.pdf (http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/tc-ext-info.pdf)
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Having used the older 700V versions in my amps and my Reduction I can say these are great caps. They are fast, detailed, and deliver tuneful bass. I also think don't add a haze over the music like some electrolytic caps do.
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That doesn't look right to me, here is how i would "interpret" it, not saying it is correct by any means...
+Vin to terminal 13
-Vin to terminal 12
+Vout wire to Tube, used to be on 13
-Vout wire to headphone socket, used to be on 12
-270k resistor is a safety bleeder so leave it in place, i.e. do not replace with a choke.
-Power supply grounding, this i cant answer as its not showing on the diagram, i am in two minds if the - rail should be tied to ground before or after that capacitor?
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Thought so, was just checking :P
If your going to replace both resistors with chokes i wouldn't bother with these to be honest, they are supposed to act like a choke from reading the blurb but their benefit is probably naff all vs two the large chokes before it. I would just stick to a plain poly film cap for that position instead, far simpler too.
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True.
But if we were to never attempt the things that did not stretch us, we would never learn or discover.
I have used an earlier version of this cap as well and loved it.
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It still should make a difference. The point is to move the lead inductance so it's not in series with the capacitor. At some high frequency, caps become inductive and chokes become capacitive so thepower supply passes RF interference unattenuated. This moves that frequency higher.
Another trick I learned from John "Buddha" Camille is to bypass the leads of the Kelvin connection at both ends with ceramic caps which are capacitive to very high frequencies indeed.