Bottlehead Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: rickdagless on July 12, 2014, 08:00:40 PM
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First post here -- Hey Bottleheads!
I'm pretty much a first timer (I messed around with a soldering iron about 10 years ago) and I've decided that I'd like to build a Mainline -- I'm pretty excited. It's going to be my first headphone amp -- I recently bought a pair of HD 650's. My first question: am I being some kind of idiot by going straight for the best amp out there? I originally was set on building a Crack + Speedball, but read about the Mainline and thought, why not? I've read great things and also, what if I decide sometime to get some low impedance headphones? I figure if I build a Mainline, I'm pretty much set for life.
Next question: I'm not-so-confident about my workspace. I live in a studio apartment and the only place I could really work is on this glass dining table. Does anybody have any suggestions for converting it (temporarily) into a soldering workstation? I was thinking of getting a sheet of plywood to put on top of the glass.
And final question, should I be worried about furniture in my apartment (chairs, the dining table) getting messed up in some way?
Thank you for reading, this is an amazing community and I'm excited to start up a project!
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Hi there,
The mainline is a good choice. Go slowly, follow exactly the instructions and double check every component before you solder it (is it really the right resistor? that sort of thing) and you will be fine. I also take a photo after each step to be able to trace back any issue.
The glass table is fine, if you are not worried about potentially scratching it. Otherwise a piece of plywood does not hurt. I usually use an old towel in order not to scratch the components.
No need to worry about your funiture either. Just dont put a hot soldering iron on it :-)
Enjoy the project. I bet it will be very rewarding.
Best
Michael
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I use a lazy susan from Ikea. It makes it easy to turn your project around to get at it from a different angle.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90074483/ (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90074483/)
A helping hand can also be useful.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/helph-m/helping-hand-w/magnifier/1.html (http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/helph-m/helping-hand-w/magnifier/1.html)
ray
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I've done a ton of soldering on glass tables. There isn't anything in any of the solder that I've used that did any harm, but I would be careful about the metal edges of the chassis plate.
If you build the wood base first, then assemble the amp upside-down in the wood base, this is pretty much a non-issue.
-PB
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Hi there,
The mainline is a good choice. Go slowly, follow exactly the instructions and double check every component before you solder it (is it really the right resistor? that sort of thing) and you will be fine. . . .
That is sage advice ! I will add to measure every resistor before installation. Remember they are 5% and 1% tolerance.
Look here for necessary tools for your project:
http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,173.0.html
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A few extras that you can take or leave... a cupcake baking tray (super market) for holding same kind resisters, diodes and keep other small stuff separated. A desk lamp (Staples) that is on a extension arm. A quality magnifying glass that is on a small stand (Radio Shack). .022 solder (Radio Shack) I use 2% silver... the .022 size is what is important in my opinion. Quality wire strippers (Home Depot) I use a Greenlee 1917. A fairly good multimeter & soldering station. I could go on & on. Final tips... take your time, keep it stock and think about the chassis plate. If you build this in a hurry and leave the plate bare you will regret it if you decide to paint or powder coat the plate later. Bottlehead kits do not come apart easy.
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Oswald is right, Greenlee (and Klein) are professional tools. The wire stripper that also cuts screws to length is too cheaply made to last. A good wire stripper will cost less than $10 and you will never give it another thought.
You will want the stripper that has the smallest wire gauges. That means the larger numbers.
If you are not a skilled solderer like Oswald and I are you should not mess with solder that has silver in it. It takes too long to melt. But it is good stuff.
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So, after a bout of cold feet, I placed my order!
@Zimmer64: Thank you for the words of advice :-) Patience, patience, patience. I love the suggestion to take a photo after each step.
@RayP: I love this lazy susan idea. I know the panel of the mainline is 12"x12" -- so the 15" diameter on a lazy susan should do?
@PB: Many thanks -- my fears regarding my glass table have been assuaged :-)
@Oswald: Love the suggestions. I also didn't think I would do anything to the chassis plate until your post -- many thanks. I'd like to powder it black -- I've seen quite a few photos and I like it.
@Grainger49: Loved your post on the necessary tools -- I checked it out earlier on and have created a list of things to get. And thank you for the extra tips regarding silver solder and the wire stripper. Patience, patience, patience -- I'm going to take my sweet time with this project :-)
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The lazy Susan is a cool idea. I use one of these (http://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-1-2-acoustic-sound-damping-foam-with-psa-18-x-24--260-520) under my projects.
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As a virtually no cost alternative to the muffin tin for sorting resisters, etc: Tape a piece of masking or painters tape sticky side up to a piece of cardboard or similar stiff material. As you sort the resistors and test their values (better to do at the start than after the kit is finished and you are trying to find a problem!), put each set of the same resistor value on the sticky tape and add a small piece of tape to the leads and write the value on it. That way all the values are easy to see and find, you don't have to recheck the color codes during the kit build, they don't get lost and if you bump your workbench or the cardboard, they stay in place. You can also pick it up, put it on a shelf out of the way, etc. It works for me anyway.
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One more suggestion, buy some terminal strips and extra wire and practice soldering. You will find a little practice will help you produce quality solder joints on your finished product. Look at your practice joints and your joints on the amp with a magnifying glass to ensure you have good adhesion between components. I also clean the flux off all of my joints using grain alcohol so the flux does not hide a bad joint. It maybe a little anal but I have had no problems with any of my Bottlehead builds.
Happy Soldering!
l
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I second the towel. It will protect not only your table but the project as well.
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Already said, but I use a small piece of plywood. What I have done, however, is add a small wood frame to the back side where I can attach a clip light to always have good light right on where I work (it is about 20" above the work surface, just a 1x4 attached as a back drop with glue and some angles then a vertical piece attached to that so I can clip the light where I want it). The other thing I did was draw out a small ruler on the front of it for measuring wire...I marked it in 1" and 1/4" increments with a sharpie pen and it is super handy for quickly measuring out wire.
I also recommend a few small plastic parts bins...I like to use Glad food containers like you get at the grocery store...the 1" deep ones with the snap on lids. Great for keeping track of everything and tidying up between work sessions.
Best,
John