Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: Colin on September 19, 2014, 11:52:08 AM
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Hello everyone....
I have no expirience in built diy before. And also my first expirience in solder :)
So I already done right the manual crack, but still have a problem with voltase test and my led through a8 still die(led a2 already light). Here is my voltase that has different with the manual crack :
1 75-90 (200)
7 100 (0)
9 100 (0)
A6 90 (200)
B3 100 (0)
B6 100 (0)
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Are both halves of the 12AU7 lit?
Is the keyway in the octal socket facing the front of the Crack?
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Yes 12AU7 has small 2 lit on above but the bih one 6080 hasn't. What do you mean about keyway? I will show the picture
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Are both halves of the 12AU7 lit?
Is the keyway in the octal socket facing the front of the Crack?
This is the other pic. Please help. Thank u
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From your picture your 8 pin octal socket looks to be orientated incorrectly the small notch in the socket which is a guide for the pin on the tube should be facing toward the front of the amp see page 13 and 15 (for a better view) of the build manual. Looks like you will need to de-solder the connections remove and install the socket in the correct orientation marking the terminal numbers on the underside of the top plate is helpful. Other than that your build looks nice and neat to me.
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From your picture your 8 pin octal socket looks to be orientated incorrectly the small notch in the socket which is a guide for the pin on the tube should be facing toward the front of the amp see page 13 and 15 (for a better view) of the build manual. Looks like you will need to de-solder the connections remove and install the socket in the correct orientation marking the terminal numbers on the underside of the top plate is helpful. Other than that your build looks nice and neat to me.
Yes, i install 8 pin socket in wrong way. So now it's already done, and my big parts problem solve. The tube 6080 light land 2 led also same. All terminals & pins voltase just the same with the manual crack EXCEPT Terminal 9 has NO VOLTAGE. Now my crack can start but only has right sound. So please help me again.
;D Crack manual is so amazing for the details about building that makes me done with good looking. But maybe i have miss something that make my crack shouldn't work properly :(
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Is no voltage 0V or something else?
I would guess that the red wire that is supposed to be going to T9 is going to T10. This may burn out one of the 2.49K resistors on the headphone jack, do check those before using the amp.
-PB
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Is no voltage 0V or something else?
I would guess that the red wire that is supposed to be going to T9 is going to T10. This may burn out one of the 2.49K resistors on the headphone jack, do check those before using the amp.
-PB
Now my crack is running perfectly ;D
The last problem is caused by the wire(have 2) hasn't attack the terminal properly, so i soldering them, and its solve ;)
Big Thanks for helping me.
But my crack is getting harsh/noise when its volume more than 50%. The largest volume i turn, the hardest(noisiest) i get the sound. (only bigger the sound from crack, if bigger from the source, and the crack volume stay below 50%, the sound is perfect). So is this a problem? or its a normal condition? can be solve with upgrade or added sonething?
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But my crack is getting harsh/noise when its volume more than 50%. The largest volume i turn, the hardest(noisiest) i get the sound. (only bigger the sound from crack, if bigger from the source, and the crack volume stay below 50%, the sound is perfect). So is this a problem? or its a normal condition? can be solve with upgrade or added sonething?
This can depend on the source you have and headphones you are using. If you have a really weak source (cell phone) and low-ish impedance headphones (say around 100 Ohms) together, you may come up a little short on power. Either going to higher impedance headphones or using a stronger source will help with this, and the Speedball will assist with this a little bit.
A loose solder joint can also create this kind of issue.
-PB