Bottlehead Forum

Bottlehead Kits => Legacy Kit Products => Stereomour => Topic started by: rmueller1 on December 21, 2014, 07:19:53 AM

Title: Voltage problems with build
Post by: rmueller1 on December 21, 2014, 07:19:53 AM

All my resistance checks were good but the voltage checks read around 438 where they were supposed to be 360 and close to zero where they were supposed to be 60. 2 led's light and 2 don't (towards the front) so I suspect my problem lies near there but just wanted to check before I go through removing that board.

Title: Re: Voltage problems with build
Post by: Paul Birkeland on December 21, 2014, 08:40:58 AM

Please post a list of the voltages that are off in your build. 

If the voltages that are supposed to be around 60 are 0 instead, you might want to check the orientation of your 4 pin sockets, as they could be backwards.

-PB

Title: Re: Voltage problems with build
Post by: rmueller1 on December 21, 2014, 09:35:02 AM

Thanks for the quick reply (on a Sunday even!) I found my problem joints and now everything is pretty much in line except 14 reads 232, which is a little outside the stated range and corresponding terminal 2 is 190. Don't know if this is an issue but everything else is well within the 10%.
I guess I'll fire it up!

Title: Re: Voltage problems with build
Post by: Paul Birkeland on December 21, 2014, 11:05:41 AM

Yeah, 220V is what we would expect for a new Russian 12AT7.  190V is more like a healthy American 12AT7, and 232 on one half may mean that half needs a few days to wake up and settle in. 

-PB

Title: Re: Voltage problems with build
Post by: Grainger49 on December 22, 2014, 07:52:35 AM

Paul, will the voltage drop with burn in on the Ruskie tube?

Title: Re: Voltage problems with build
Post by: Paul Birkeland on December 22, 2014, 10:40:54 AM

Eventually, the plate voltage will settle down on the new production Russian tubes.