Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: TheCoolDoc on January 16, 2015, 02:01:11 PM
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I've checked everything everywhere and can't find any issues other than a few terminals in the resistance check.
At terminal 13 is 0.05. If I tap my MM probe on the connection it skyrockets to the correct range (270K and sometimes ridiculously above that), but that is only when I tap it.
I've installed the speedball already and the terminals 1 and 5 don't read anything. I get no reading at all. 2 and 4 are insanely high in the Mega Ohms.
Why is the fuse blowing up all the time. I've also re-soldered each connection to make sure it is a good one, but clearly I haven't done a good enough job.
I can't do the voltage check because the fuse keeps blowing. It's a 1A Slow Blow fuse by the way.
I have provided pictures below, but they might not be of much help because the speedball is in the way.
How/Where to I start troubleshooting? Also, are the tubes supposed to be such a tight fit? I felt like I would break them pushing them all the way in, but I did it nonetheless and they seem snug. They haven't made me snug yet though... :'(
All help is greatly appreciated from this great community. I am not an avid DIY builder (I'm trying to be though) nor do I have expertise in this field. Thank you!
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Start by removing the Speedball and installing the resistors. Once you have a working Crack, then you have a baseline to compare the upgrade to.
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I disconnected everything from terminal 13 and reconnected and bingo! Things seem good currently, but I've yet to do the voltage check.
Is the 6080 supposed to glow? It's warm, but I don't see any sort of orange glow. The 12AU7 has two orange lights on the top.
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Terminals 1, 5, 7, and 9 have 0 Voltage. I don't know if it's a cold solder or because the speedball is attached.
Two lights on the speedball main pcb doesn't turn on and one on the B pcb doesn't. The power tube doesn't have any glow but is hot.
How should I proceed further?
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I got a short circuit spark when I voltage checked terminal 3. When I plugged in my headphones I got a shock. Is this a grounding issue? The speedball LED's aren't on anymore.
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The fuse blows because something is shorted!
If it didn't, It could have severe consequences. Death. Fire. Etc.
Did You build the crack and speedball without checking if the stock crack without speedball works?
If You did, remove the speedball and restore it to stock and check all resistances before going forward.
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The fuse blows because something is shorted!
If it didn't, It could have severe consequences. Death. Fire. Etc.
Did You build the crack and speedball without checking if the stock crack without speedball works?
If You did, remove the speedball and restore it to stock and check all resistances before going forward.
Fuse isn't the problem anymore. I just got a short circuit when voltage testing terminal 3. Is that very bad? Will things still possibly be functional? I'm removing the speedball now.
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Hard to tell.
Remove the speedball. Make sure everything looks built to stock. Check all solder joints, check if any cable stumps are touching adjacent terminals. Do the resistance check and take it from there.
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Hard to tell.
Remove the speedball. Make sure everything looks built to stock. Check all solder joints, check if any cable stumps are touching adjacent terminals. Do the resistance check and take it from there.
I'm back to stock and every single resistance tests are perfect except for B6/9 which are giving me 0. I'm going to try to fix the connection, but any ideas?
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Got some pictures of the sockets and terminals?
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Got some pictures of the sockets and terminals?
I just re-soldered it and now every single resistance value on the stock crack is perfect. Do you recommend I do a voltage test now? Sorry for the delay as I am working on it alongside.
Thank you so much for the help btw!
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Got some pictures of the sockets and terminals?
I plugged in the amp and the only issue is the power tube 6080 is getting warm but not glowing at all. Maybe I haven't waited long enough, but I think 1 minute is a fair amount. The other tube glows immediately.
Is this supposed to happen? It's still getting very hot so I would think it is functioning. I don't want to do the voltage tests before I know it's alright.
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If the Crack is back in stock form, all solder joints look good, and the resistance check went ok...
I don't see why not do the voltage test. You won't find out whats wrong if You don't.
Would like to see another close up of the octal socket solder joints though.
Just remember rubber soles, left hand in back pocket, and don' touch the curcuit with finger.
Good luck!
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If the Crack is back in stock form, all solder joints look good, and the resistance check went ok...
I don't see why not do the voltage test. You won't find out whats wrong if You don't.
Would like to see another close up of the octal socket solder joints though.
Just remember rubber soles, left hand in back pocket, and don' touch the curcuit with finger.
Good luck!
Any word on the 6080 warming up but not glowing?
I've attached some images (not too great quality) of the octal socket.
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7, 9, B3, and B6 were 0 in the voltage test. Voltages that are supposed to be 170 were up around 230-245. The rest of them were in the upper end of their range such as 99 out of the recommended 90 or 100.
The 6080 tube not glowing is the only other indication to something being wrong. The resistance tests were flawless.
I'm lost.
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Can't be sure from the pictures but it looks like a short between A7-A8.
Check that there is good clearance between leads that aren't supposed to be soldered together.
After that do a voltage test and we might find out why the 6080 isn't glowing.
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Can't be sure from the pictures but it looks like a short between A7-A8.
Check that there is good clearance between leads that aren't supposed to be soldered together.
After that do a voltage test and we might find out why the 6080 isn't glowing.
Just made sure the A socket terminals were completely fine. Still getting B3, B6, 7 and 9 as 0 on the voltage test. Every other reading is higher than it should be. Still no glow.
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How much higher?
Can You write up the voltages that are off by more than 10-15%?
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Terminal Voltage (VDC unless otherwise specified)
1 75-90 = 99
2 170 = 240
4 170 = 240
5 75-90 = 99-100s
7 100 = 0
9 100 = 0
13 230s
15 240s
21 230s
A socket readings are supposed to be 90 but are 100
B1 90 = 100s
B2 170 = 240s
B3 100 = 0
B4 90 = 100s
B5 170 = 240s
B6 100 = 0
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Not sure, but might be that a cap or such is shot.
Suggest awaiting answer from Caucasian Blackplate
Btw, is the lead from the ceramic resistor (going from 15 to 21) touching the 4 connector from the power transformer?
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Not sure, but might be that a cap or such is shot.
Suggest awaiting answer from Caucasian Blackplate
Btw, is the lead from the ceramic resistor (going from 15 to 21) touching the 4 connector from the power transformer?
It is not even though it seems like so. Would it have caused the issue if it had touched in the past?
Btw, are these voltages in anyway safe for listening?
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The voltages are way out of specs. Wait till the experts are back. It seems no power is exiting the 6080 for the headphones, maybe the tube itself is broken. As I understand, heater voltage is applied as the 12AU7 lights up on both sides although the 6080 remains unlit.
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The voltages are way out of specs. Wait till the experts are back. It seems no power is exiting the 6080 for the headphones, maybe the tube itself is broken. As I understand, heater voltage is applied as the 12AU7 lights up on both sides although the 6080 remains unlit.
Yes it seems so. I've checked multiple times to make sure the tube is plugged in properly. For resistance readings I'm now getting overload on terminals where * is the targeted reading. Earlier I was getting it in the 100s. (1, 2, 4, 5, 13). Is this because of re-soldering?
I tried testing the voltages without the 6080 plugged in and still got wacky T1-T5 readings (higher than it should be). Then I properly plugged it back in and still no luck. T 7 and 9 are 0.
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If You want, You can test the individual caps by setting Your meter to ohms, unplugging the amp from the mains of course, and attach the test leads on either side of the caps, so the caps get charged by the battery in Your meter. Switch the leads, and the opposite happens.
If they react like this, at least the caps most likely are ok.
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If You want, You can test the individual caps by setting Your meter to ohms, unplugging the amp from the mains of course, and attach the test leads on either side of the caps, so the caps get charged by the battery in Your meter. Switch the leads, and the opposite happens.
If they react like this, at least the caps most likely are ok.
Just tested all 5 capacitors and they're working I think. Got the 5s range for the blue ones attached to the octal socket terminal and for the three large ones I got 20s range and rising. Tested with the black/common prong on negative terminal at 2000kohms.
EDIT: Resistance check is back to normal, however, I've attached pictures of my tubes incase you were curious. I'm still not getting any voltage at 7 and 9, b3 and b6.
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B7/B8 are the connections that make the 6080 glow. Try reheating them. Your voltages will be pretty high until the 6080 is conducting.
-PB
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B7/B8 are the connections that make the 6080 glow. Try reheating them. Your voltages will be pretty high until the 6080 is conducting.
-PB
Still no luck. Is the tube abnormal? The 6080 tube isn't getting hot anymore either now.
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That 6080 is gassy and will not work. You mentioned in your that you had to force it into the socket, you may have broken the glass while doing so. Was it always white at the top, or was it silvery when you first got it?
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That 6080 is gassy and will not work. You mentioned in your that you had to force it into the socket, you may have broken the glass while doing so. Was it always white at the top, or was it silvery when you first got it?
It was always white, which is why I never considered it being dysfunctional. When it heated up that gave me even more conformation that it was perfectly fine. I never forced it in, it was just harder than I would find comfortable with a glass object, but it was snug.
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Email replacementparts at bottlehead dot com for a replacement of the 6080. It will go out on Tuesday.
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Email replacementparts at bottlehead dot com for a replacement of the 6080. It will go out on Tuesday.
Thank you for this. I've sent them an e-mail. Is there anything else I can do in the mean time to make sure I'm prepared for the new tube?
The only problems are terminals b6, b9, 7 and 9 give 0 on the voltage test. Are these 4 terminals because of the bad tube? Does that mean with a new tube theoretically all should be good and I should just not re-solder any terminals?
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Ah, good catch, I missed the snowy white top ;)