Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Jaeger Speaker => Topic started by: rburrows on January 15, 2018, 03:56:26 AM
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I hit a couple snags in my build and would like any recommendations on how to proceed:
1) front-panel on first cab
The dry fit process was an apparent success; that said, maybe I wasn't applying enough scrutiny, knowing that the pieces were slightly loose and assuming that engaging the cams during gluing would tighten up any tolerances.
Ultimately the front panel did not end up as square as it could have been. looking at the built speaker head on, the panel is shifted couple mms too low, resulting in a gap at the top, and a slight incline of the side panels at the base joint.
Additionally, it didn't join perfectly along the left and right panels. light passes through the gap readily, especially at mid height near the woofer holes. The cam locks in these areas didn't seem to fully engage, despite my efforts. I wonder if tolerances with the interior panels might have contributed here; the top panel does seem to come out a little further than the side panels.
is the sound quality compromised with this arrangement? and are there any techniques for mitigating, beyond adding another layer of glue internally along the loose seams?
2) back panel on second cab
5 of the cam lock holes don't have entry holes for the pins. Is the best thing to do here to match the 5 holes on the opposite side using a power drill, or is there something more esoteric I should keep in mind?
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Hey Robert,
It will probably be easier to sort this out in real time. I will give you a call.
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Hey Dan;
Could we have a report on how this project turned out?
Cheers, Hank
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We sent a new back panel for the second cabinet. I have not heard back yet about the completion.
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I had a somewhat similar situation where the front panel was about 1/16 long on the bottom and short on the top. My side panels appeared to fit well enough that the glue was keeping them together and I didn't think it was going to be an issue for my system to function. I threw in extra glue and filler. I do also have the gap in the bottom, but that is not part of the speaker function so I dont really care about that, and it will be covered up with filler :)
I am sanding down the 1/16 overshoot on the top and I think everything will be fine.
Incidentally, these really sand quite nicely to a smooth surface, and I will be using dark tung oil to coat them.
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I just wanted to report back – life got in the way and I had to shelf this project for a while, but I was able to get back into it this week and now my Jägers are complete and burning in!
As Doc mentioned, they supplied a new back panel with the proper cutouts. We spoke on the phone shortly after my post and we talked through the issue. Kudos for being so prompt and helpful, as usual!
For what it's worth, the second cabinet built up in the exact same way – front panel slightly too low, and some bowing of the panel near the woofers when viewed from the side. I'm actually happy that they are symmetrical :). Like bombay317 I compensated by heavily sealing the interior gaps with more wood glue, and filling the external gaps with a dust paste made from the sanding. I went with the teak oil treatment as used on the Bottlehead prototype and the cabs look great; the flaws aren't really noticeable.