Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Moreplay => Topic started by: El Tel on September 07, 2021, 01:23:47 AM
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Hi Everyone
Could you give a newbie a bit of advice please, I'd like to ask what gauge Solder is generally best for most of the work on the Moreplay ?
Thanks
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I use 0.8mm. The thicker stuff was too difficult for me to work with.
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Hi Terry,
I use 0.8mm (0.032" in old money).
Leaded Rosin core.
In the UK from here:
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/solder/cardas-quad-eutectic-solder.html
A bit pricey at £25 if only using for one job.
For smaller amount when first starting out I bought Weller 1mm on Amazon.
They only seem to have 1.5mm at the moment but you can get 1mm 100g on a certain auction site for £12 which will do the job.
All with Lead!
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Thank you for the info on the size of the Solder, one more question though, sorry !! What is the best temperature for the Solder iron to be set at ?
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Assuming you are using leaded solder, 370-400.
Too hot and higher risk of damage though most components are quite tough.
Too cold and have to apply heat for longer so its a balance.
Also consider size of the tip, size of connection and solder gauge.
Very small contact point means less surface area for transfer of heat and if large connection or solder gauge means longer contact time.
It's really something to practice where it doesn't matter until you get a feel for it.
I had all the same questions when I started (left unasked), and no amount of instruction will tell you more than those first few attempts.
Just remember to look for the solder flowing into the joint. If after 5 seconds nothing is melting, either contact is not good or iron too cold.
You shouldn't need hotter than 400.
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A wealth of information as usual Chris, thanks so much !!
I'm going to get hold of as many electrical components as I can and have a good old practice before I make a start, fingers crossed 🤞
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I use a hakko soldering station at around 400C or 750F
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The Cardas solder is excellent. Buying the big reel is the most economical but for a few £/$ you can get shorter lengths 3.5/5m from eBay. 3.5m will build a Crack with some left over. Depends on how much kit making you intend to do in the future. The big reel will last the average person many years!
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Whoops. Should have made clear it was 400c, not 400f.
My default temp now.
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Thanks Chris and Deluk
I'm thinking of making my own chassis plate out of copper, using the original one as a template, do you think it would be ok to use copper ?
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It might sag. Not sure what the strength would be but could be a problem.
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1/8" copper should be just fine, but you'll need a different IEC module to fit. 0.10" copper would be best, but I'm not sure you'd be able to find it.
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Hi Paul and thank you.
You say that 0.10" would be best, which is 2.54 mm I think, I can find 2.5 mm would that be OK?
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I can find 2.5 mm would that be OK?
Since I haven't done exactly what you're doing, I certainly don't want to be responsible for what might go wrong!
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Why not just paint the aluminium one with a metallic copper paint?
There are loads of options.
I admit very few actually pass for real copper but good attractive results, hammered or smooth, are possible.
And if you don't like the result, you can always strip it off and start again.
I would suggest this route first as you will be dealing with a known quantity in terms of chassis strength, especially once it gets hot.
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There's no substitute for the heft of real copper though...
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2.5mm is only .0015" thinner than 2.54mm.
2.54mm= .09998"
2.5mm= .0984"
Nothing to worry about.
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Why not just paint the aluminium one with a metallic copper paint?
There are loads of options.
I admit very few actually pass for real copper but good attractive results, hammered or smooth, are possible.
And if you don't like the result, you can always strip it off and start again.
I would suggest this route first as you will be dealing with a known quantity in terms of chassis strength, especially once it gets hot.
That's not a bad shout Chris !! I'll give it a go before i go down the copper route, thanks again.
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Since I haven't done exactly what you're doing, I certainly don't want to be responsible for what might go wrong!
No worries on that front Paul !! Thanks !!
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2.5mm is only .0015" thinner than 2.54mm.
2.54mm= .09998"
2.5mm= .0984"
Nothing to worry about.
That's what I thought Lee, thanks !!
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There's no substitute for the heft of real copper though...
Nice !! Paul can you tell me the dimesions of the Moreplay chassis ?
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Very nice Paul.
Terry, ignore my suggestion ;D
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Does anyone have the dimensions if the Moreplay chassis ?
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The Moreplay is built on an 8" x 10" plate.
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Thanks Paul
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Evening all, can anyone tell me how I put up a photo please ?
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Hit "Reply", then "Attachments and other options", then "Choose file", select your photo, then "Post".
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Thanks Paul !
Can someone tell me what the two little holes are for in the photo I have attached please ? I can't seem to find any connections that go to them in the manual. I'd rather not have the two holes in the chassis plate that I'm going to attempt to make.
Thanks Everyone
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They look similar to the screw holes for the stepped attenuator upgrades on other pre-amps/integrated amps.
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Yes, they are for a future attenuator upgrade.
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Thanks Doc and Oguinn !!