Bottlehead Forum
General Category => Tech Tools => Topic started by: Grainger49 on November 10, 2009, 03:09:35 AM
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I will add to this post as the community make suggestions.
See the post below for links to suppliers.
These are all needed for assembly of the kit:
Soldering iron/station - Just a soldering pen with a stand and a sponge will do. A station is nicer than just a pen. I went for a Weller but many Bottleheads have and like the Hakko irons and stations.
Solder - Many flavors, your choice. Just be sure to get rosin (that is flux) core made for electronics. Stay away from lead free, it is hard to work with. Do not buy anything that is for plumbing. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER! It will ruin your kit.
Digital Multimeter - I suggest a used Fluke for under $80, often under $50, nice, autoranging, some have capacitance measuring - you need a meter that will measure 200V AC and 500V DC (455V in Paramount) safely. Those are rounded to the next 100V increment above what is seen in Bottlehead kits. Beware, cheap meters don't measure well.
A small needle nosed and small diagonal cutting pliers (wire cutters to cut wire and excess component leads) - I like the "spring return to open" type as they are always ready to use.
A medium sized flat bladed screwdriver and a wrench of some sort to hold the nut.
Wire strippers - I find those with wire gauges printed on them easier to use (Klein or Xcelite)
A ruler or tape measure
Wood Glue and masking tape for assembling the base that comes with all kits (except the Quickie).
Safety glasses when you clip leads and solder or reading glasses if you are old like me.
Alligator clip jumpers - This wire with alligator clips on each end is very handy. Get #16 wire. Too thin a wire can be a problem. They make reading voltages much, much safer.
Now I'm adding this: A backup set of tubes. One of the first steps suggested in troubleshooting is to swap the tubes. In many amps that is possible from right to left channels. But more Bottlehead amps are coming out that have only one of a given tube. So now I add this as necessary.
These will be handy but are not necessary:
Heat sink clips for use on transistor leads and LEDs - an alligator clip is not quite as good.
A vacuum desoldering tool or solder wick, I have both but prefer solder wick.
A soldering tool (see Alan's post below)
A hemostat (forceps) - from RS, they get them surplus and they are very useful holding nuts or as a heat sink.
A lighted magnifying glass on an arm or magnifying glasses. You don't have to be old to need these.
A small fan to blow the solder fumes away from your face or a smoke absorber from Weller or Hakko. Here (http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,1539)
Tweezers
A box with multiple compartments to hold parts as you assemble the kit.
A link to Doc's excellent suggestion from the thread I just went through. (http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=bottlehead&n=113578)
More Advanced Tools:
A "Third Hand/Helping Hands" which is a heavy base with an arm and two alligator clips on the end - used to hold small circuit boards or a component when soldering (mentioned below in Breakfastchef's post).
Alligator Clip Jumpers (good for safely testing voltages).
An X-Acto knife
Nibbler - can make a square hole, a little at a time.
Hot Glue Gun - for "tacking down" wires and larger components to the top plate.
Knockouts - makes a round hole or makes a round hole bigger (AKA Chassis Punch).
Dremel Tool - it doesn't hammer but does almost everything else.
Ignition Wrench Set (at Sears) - great for tightening RCA Jacks and those nuts in tight places.
Nut Drivers - good with "nuts"
A small tablet or smart phone with front and rear cameras - From rif, for looking where your eyes won't go.
A set of small files
A ream - makes holes larger a little at a time.
Electric drill and a drill press.
"Unibit" Stepped Drill Bits
Dental picks
Heat Shrink Tubing and a heat gun to shrink it (you can use a hair dryer).
Cable ties
Oscilloscope - the ultimate voltmeter, can be had used for $100-$200.
Edit: Check "reply #30" for a picture of a few suggested tools.
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This post contains hot links to sites that sell tools.
In alphabetical order:
Allied Electronics (http://www.alliedelec.com/)
AuidoXpress/Old Colony Sound Lab (http://www.audioxpress.com/bksprods/KITTOO.htm)
Digi-Key (http://www.digikey.com/)
Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/) Good Cheap Tools
Jameco Electronics (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001)
MCM Electronics (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/)
Mouser Electronics (http://www.mouser.com/)
Newark Electronics (http://www.newark.com/)
Parts Express (http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm)
Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/home/index.jsp)
Sears (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/v_10153_12605_Tools?adCell=WH) Lifetime Warranty On Craftsman Tools
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Grianger,
Nice list, and links are fun to explore, especially when you are home with back spasms.
One of the first tools that I made was a Dim Bulb Tester, invaluable tool to me. Right up there with a soldering tool.
Cheers, Alan
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Alan,
I haven't found anything that is fun to go with back spasms. I like to be amusing. I thought I might collect some information from the old site that I knew was there.
Any additions of either tools or seller's sites would be appreciated.
By the way, how do you use a soldering tool? I had one once but nobody ever showed me how to use it. And I started with a neon tester.
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MCMElectronics.com (no affliation) had a Tenma variable heat soldering station on sale a few days ago for under $14 USD. A Radio Shack pen cost about $8 so it seems worth the risk, don't know if the tips are interchangeable (doubt it). I think the sale runs through end of November.
-Chuck
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Thanks for the list. As a newbie, this type of information is very helpful. Other questions I've been dealing with as this is the first time I've soldered anything:
1) What to do when the tip gets oxidized while you're working. (I've ordered a tip polisher)
2) What size soldering tip is best for this work? My soldering station came with a screwdriver sized tip. It seems like a conical one might be better.
3) What is the best way to make good mechanical contact before soldering with these small joints/wires.
4) Tricks for wire stripping. I have a stripper/cutter, but I seemed to mangle a fair number of the wires
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J,
My thoughts are this:
1) Wipeing the tip on a damp, not wet, sponge after and before every use can help keep the oxidation to a minimum. When you are all done soldering for the day, coat the tip with solder before shutting the iron off.
2) I use an 1/8 inch flat screwdriver tip for most of my work. Remember this is a personal choice and as such if your Iron supports replaceable tips by some extras.
3) When you can, twist or warp the wire around the lug, post, or terminal.
4) I just bought a quality 16-26 AWG stripper from Mouser to replace the Auto Stripper I was using.
Best of success to you, and keep asking questions.
Alan
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...
2) What size soldering tip is best for this work? My soldering station came with a screwdriver sized tip. It seems like a conical one might be better.
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4) Tricks for wire stripping. I have a stripper/cutter, but I seemed to mangle a fair number of the wires
Booangler's tips are excellent so I'll just expand on them a bit.
A conical tip is most precise, but it also holds the least heat so anything larger than a transistor lead wire will take more time to get everything hot enough. The screwdriver tip has more area for better heat conduction but still hace enough narrow dimension to work with precision. Once you get enough experience you can use pretty much anything if you have to - I used a 250-watt soldering gun (made for plumbing, not electronics!) for years; now I'm using a narrow conical tip because I'm too lazy to order a more useful one. When I was young I had a woodburning set with an optional "soldering" tip which was more of a stubby-pencil conical shape. Doc B uses a screwdriver tip but he never lets me use his soldering station, I'm too ham-fisted! :^)
Better wire strippers really are better. Sad, because I have a $5.95 stripper and I'm too cheap to replace it for 5 times the cost, but whenever I work with Ed I just love to use his wire stripper, it does so much better a job.
You've probably figured out from the above why I get to do more designing that building.
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The two suggested tool makers at the top make wire strippers you will use for 20 years or more. Home Depot carries one or both.
I have been using a small screwdriver tip on my soldering iron for the last 30 years. I have used conical, but don't like them myself. I am an experienced kit builder so I don't burn transistors. But someone new to the hobby, and PJ is anything but new to the hobby, will find the pencil tip kinder to solid state devices. This, screwdriver tip/pencil tip, is a personal preference thing. Buy one of each and swap out to decide for yourself.
Look at the link to Doc's suggestion at the top.
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I've always used a fine conical tip for circuit boards. They are useful for that duty. A narrow screwdriver tip or chisel-tip, as they're sometimes called, for everything else.
A 35W or 40W Weller can last an awfully long time if you take care of the tip. And, don't leave it on all day by mistake! A stand to set it in between joints is a really good idea, if for no other reason than peace of mind. If you're always keeping one eye on a hot iron just laying on the table, the distraction can lead to other "issues".
I've always used the simple X-Lite stripper that consists of opposing 'V' notches. They take a little practice to keep from nicking the wire, but they do a wide range of wire sizes.
Needle-nose pliers come in a variety of sizes, and a variety of sizes can be pretty useful, I've found. The tip when buying pliers and diagonal cutters is to see if they close properly, with little or no light between the two halves. Pliers that don't mate well can be quite frustrating to use.
Thanks for hunting this up, Grainger!
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Thanks JC, Most of it was culled from the thread on the old forum. I can find a wealth of information there. But first I had to find the "Boolean and" on the search tool.
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Sears has a good 16-26 AWG stripper, 10 bucks of so. Look for the yellow handled one with the number 82554.
Guaranteed for life :)
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My list of standard equipment and accessories for hardcore DIYers...
Equipment & Tools
- Xytronic 379 soldering station, temperature controlled ($50 from howardelectronics.com)
- Helping hands (Radio Shack has these)
- Hands-Free Magnifier (like this one - http://www.garrettwade.com/shopping/product/anotherview.jsp?img=/product/large/19R0501_large.jpg)
- Solder Sucker
- De-soldering Braid
- Digital Multi-Meter (picked up a decent one at Wal-Mart for $20)
- Wire strippers
- Wire cutters (regular size and miniature)
- Needle nosed pliers (miniature, variety of shapes)
- Tweezers
- Forceps
- X-Acto knife
- Dental pics
- Screwdrivers, wrenches, etc. (stuff you probably have on hand)
- Test leads with alligator clips on each end
- Rulers (6" works fine)
- Drill and bits (drill press can come in very handy, too)
- Step drill bit set
- Small files
- Light source on articulated arm
- -Nut drivers
Supplies
- Solder (most any lead solder with flux core should be fine)
- Flux
- Small brushes (dusting, flux application)
- Cable ties
- Heatshrink tubing (selection of various diameters)
- Heat Gun (to shrink the heatshrink tubing)
- Containers to hold parts
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Breakfastchef,
Thanks for the additions. They have been added at the top. Your link to Garrett Wade only goes to the main page. However, it might be similar to this one at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html This is what I referred to as a third hand. As you can imagine it is a fraction of the price at HF.
Again, thanks!
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Good info here!!!
Thanks All!!!
Ron
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I'm saving up to get the S.E.X. Will I need all of the tools listed in the first post?
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For the base, you will need wood glue, masking tape, sandpaper and finishing supplies.
For the kit, finishing supplies will largely depend on what parts you may wish to finish. I usually like to give the chassis plate a couple of coats of something clear, but you may want to do more. The transformer bell end usually needs some attention with steel wool and some kind of finish, as it is pretty much just plain steel and prone to the usual rust.
To do the assembly and electronics, you will need soldering stuff, a multimeter, and hand tools. The hand tools list can be as big as you want to make it, if you're a tool hound like I am, but it can also be pretty minimal: Screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, and wire strippers are essential.
You will need a place to work with plenty of light. It is also nice if your work-place can remain undisturbed between sessions.
Finally, it is always a good idea to have some kind of eye protection when you are working on anything. Using a diagonal wire cutter can result in pointy little snips of wire shooting out at high velocity, as one example of hazard. There are others.
Also in the eye department, a magnifier of some sort is pretty much required to identify the smaller parts, and is very useful in inspecting your work.
Again, you may want to add endlessly to your tool supply, if you're like me; I think of something new I'd like almost every time I work on something! But, you don't need a Sears in your basement to assemble a Bottlehead kit.
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In addition to what JC says:
As far as hand tools goes you have to tighten the bolts that hold the transformer to the chassis. The same thing for the terminal strips. You need a medium thickness standard screwdriver and something to hold the nut on the bottom of the chassis. Both needle nose and diagonal cutter pliers are necessary. You must have something to strip wire. As a novice you don't want to do that with your pocket knife.
I have split the first post into those tools that are necessary and those that are handy then advanced tools.
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Thanks, guys.
Looks like I can get a variety of digital multimeters for as low as $5. Is there a reason to go with the $100+ Fluke? Are there models or brands to avoid?
(Edit: would this one (http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-DVM850BL-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B00068U24A/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1289947444&sr=1-3) work for me?)
Do the assembly instructions say how (and with what) to finish the transformer bell end?
I've never assembled anything like this. The closest thing was a computer, but that required no soldering, gluing, etc. Am I going to be over my head? On the main site it says there are only 2 or 3 people Bottlehead trusts to assemble these. If that's the case, aren't I (inexperienced as I am) totally unqualified?
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And, it's such a nice price, I may have to get one myself for a back-up! At that price, you can burn up a few without much regret!
As far as the bell end is concerned, I just buffed mine with steel wool, wiped it with Formula 409 to remove any grease from handling, and shot it with the same clear coat I used on the chassis plate. Alternatively, any primer and paint specified for use on metal will do. Some people like "Hammertone" type crinkle finishes.
Bottlehead is particular about who builds one of their kits for a customer, because they are going to charge for it and stand behind it. This does not necessarily make it a difficult task. The main skills are reading and following instructions, working with hand tools, and soldering. If you have never soldered before, you may wish to acquire some cheap resistors and terminal strips to practice on first. Good soldering takes practice, but it is not difficult.
As far as instructions are concerned, if you find one that isn't clear, you need only post a question here on the Forum and chances are that someone will be along shortly to help.
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JC, I think you may have misread my OP. You can get a used Fluke for $80 often under $50. There is a difference between meters. Cheap digital meters don't respond well to high resistances. They are hard to tell if you have the reading you are looking for. I have helped two Bottleheads find Flukes and they have never questioned a meter reading since.
I can't tell you about the Vellman. I have used only 3 meters since 1979, a Simpson and two Flukes. I still have both Flukes.
The Bottlehead manuals have a picture for just about every step and full page shots of the assembled top plate and finished product. Any mistakes in the SEX manual were ironed out years ago.
Thanks, guys.
Looks like I can get a variety of digital multimeters for as low as $5. Is there a reason to go with the $100+ Fluke? Are there models or brands to avoid? . . . .
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Does it matter what kind of solder I use?
Would this (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-lb-lead-free-rosin-core-soldering-wire-98734.html) work?
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Solder does matter. Lead can cause headaches, really bad headaches. And there are all kinds of designer solders out there.
As for the linked solder, I might find the 1mm size a little bulky (I'm not sure the size of what I have). I use thinner solder. But at that price, and if you are lucky enough to have a Harbor Freight in your town, go there and you will find most of the hand tools you need. The small needle nose, side cutters and wire strippers are what I have in mind immediately. There are better soldering stations than they sell. And maybe the 1mm solder will work fine.
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So as long as it's lead-less I'm good? Less than 1mm.
I was just going to get a cheap soldering iron ($4.99 at their site), with mini stand, and use a household sponge.
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The 1 mm may be fine. I prefer using a thin solder. Right now I'm using leaded solder and a small fan to blow it out of my face. Not to mention that the big magnifying glass I use makes it impossible for the smoke to float straight up.
This is the kind of light I use.
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I do not recommend lead free solder, it's just harder to use. Radio Shack has plain old rosin core electronic solder, a little thick but will work fine.
Don't stick it in your mouth and wash your hands when you're done...John
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Lead-free solders can be difficult to work with. I use it for plumbing, but mostly because that's all that's readily available for plumbing these days.
For electronic work, I generally use a "eutectic" solder, which has a ~ 63/37 ratio. When cooling, this solder goes directly from the liquid state to the solid state, skipping that "semi-solid" state that other ratios have. I suspect that movement during that semi-solid (when it appears that the solder has hardened, but it really hasn't) state has been responsible for many a "cold" joint.
Having said that, I would certainly use standard 60/40 from Radio Shack, and often have. You just have to be aware of its cooling characteristics, as with all 60/40s.
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Bausch and Lomb Magna Visors are great. I got mine from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Visor-Bausch-Lomb-Lenses/dp/B003E6OJ9U (http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Visor-Bausch-Lomb-Lenses/dp/B003E6OJ9U) If you sign up for their credit card they give you a $40 credit, and so I got mine for about $5 after shipping was added. Even for the full price they are a great buy.
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This is a great thread...I wish I had read it before my Stereomour build! Especially on the 63/37 solder...that would have been an easy call.
I built the amp with the following tools: medium small screwdriver, wire cutters, wire striper, swiss army knife (blade and scissors), hemostats (best tool for wiring EVER!!!), x2 glasses, solder, soldering station, tape measure, and a digital multimeter from Radio Shack. That is almost nothing! And none of it fancy. I do keep a shrink wrap multipack handy.
For the case, wood glue, painters tape, strap style box clamp, sander. I will hand rub some stain with a shop rag (and then sand and reapply) and then do the same with some miniwax polyseal satin eventually!
The one other thing I did which I highly recommend if you don't have a dedicated work bench: I used a 2'x2' 1/2 plywood sheet as a work surface and I kept my parts in a CoolWhip container and my tools in a clear plastic box where I could grab them handy but not have them wander. This let me set up on the kitchen table and then put everything away quickly. It makes a nice, organized area to work.
Did I mention that you have to get the hemostats (I got mine from Radio Shack)?
John
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I've only built one kit so far, but one thing that I did when building my S.E.X kit made things go smoothly so it might help others. My wife likes to scrapbook so she has these plastic boxes with lots of small compartments in them. Its the kind of thing that I'd use for flies (fishing) but it makes a great thing to organize the kit parts.
I went through the bag of parts that made up my kit, sorting the resistors and everything into separate piles according to the color bands. Then I went through each pile with my meter making sure they were all the same value. I put each pile into one of the compartments in the clear plastic box along with a little piece of paper identifying the parts. It makes the pre-build parts inventory easier, and then when building the kit I didn't have to sort through parts to get what I needed. When it was time to quit for the day all I had to do was close the box and put it away until the next time I got to work.
Ken
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Here is a hand full of tools I took a picture of. The pen of the soldering station is being held by the $3 Harbor Freight Third Hand.
Across the top are solder, diagonal cutting pliers, needle nose pliers & nippers (for clipping leads).
The bottom row is my Fluke meter, Weller soldering station and the third hand.
The second picture is a close up of the third hand.
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Grainger,
Thanks for putting the time in to keep this post updated, and to everyone that added information.
This is my first post, I just joined since I ordered a Crack and Speedball. I have seen and heard about the Bottlehead products from the speaker world but never purachsed any. Now getting into the headphone world I decided to give the DIY a try. It will be my first DIY project and reading thru this site and the Head-Fi site is really helping.
I went to the site that Doc mentions in your first post and I'm going with the items he mentions. I don't know if I'll be doing to many DIY projects so I'm just getting the basic things. I did find a good looking third hand with magnifier so I'll pick that up also.
Thanks again everyone,
James
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Maybe I missed it, but I use a tool that is non conventional, and I wouldn't trade it for any wire cutter when it comes to trimming wire leads on a pc board. Nail clippers yup, they are perfect! Just don't tell my wife.
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Maybe I missed it, but I use a tool that is non conventional, and I wouldn't trade it for any wire cutter when it comes to trimming wire leads on a pc board. Nail clippers yup, they are perfect! Just don't tell my wife.
I do the same thing. They get dull quicker but I just buy a couple of the 98 cent clippers at wallyworld so I have them. Toss when too dull. I've also used them for as long back as I can remember for cutting the extra line when tying fishing knots or making up monofilament leaders. Never did like using my teeth for that. They work great for trimming you nails too :-P
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Cutting nails too? Then it's a no-brainer!
I know that it has been mentioned here before about the quality of tools and how they might affect your job. But it bears repeating, because I just used a Rat Shack soldering pencil last night on a project and the heat was not steady. After ruining a couple of circuit traces, I switched to a Weller. The difference is the difference between a good job, or instead, a few tears. In this case, tears won. Yah, a certain quality of tool matters.
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I would like to add that one of the best recent purchases is a solder station that I bought from Parts express for $40. It is made by Stahl, has replaceable tips, variable heat(300-650 I think), and the stand is separate from the station. So far, I am kicking myself for not buying something like this years ago! I have drawer full of irons that are so-so, and might just have a yard sale this summer...Also, I got the headset/lens that was recommended here, and again, what was I thinking all those years? Tools, proper ones, make all the difference. That is what I have enjoyed about this site. Lots of experience, and great advice. I'll keep reading. Thanks
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The rest is what you'd expect any joiner to have like saws, mortise gauge etc. As for wood work experience, I have hand cut mortise and tenons with great success, finger joints, half flaps and even dovetails although not perfect are almost there!
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Hello all,
I don't have a soldering "pen" I was wondering what ones people use and what ones they feel seem to do the best job and why that is. I would like to do this as close to once as possible. ;D
Thanks
Mark
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See Greg's post above. This or a similar station would be a good step up from a simple pencil iron.
I just took a quick look at what is available. Half decent looking ones for as little as $15. Very good ones for $40 or $50 or so.
It is much easier to solder, with an iron that has even rudimentary temp control. Especially if you're learning...John
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Kristel
There are a number of threads on suggested soldering irons/stations in this folder. Jump to the Tech Tools folder and search for "soldering iron." It will search in only the Tech Tools folder.
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I have a soldering station already, but was trying to put together a list of everything.
Any suggestions, or does this list cover the items I need? http://www.amazon.com/lm/RR8MBV04TA0G/ (hopefully this is helpful for others as well who just want to one-stop shop)
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akatsuki,
I would include magnifying glasses or table light with a magnifier.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Head-magnifying-glass-LED-light-magnifier-hands-free-/390546554700?pt=UK_Health_Beauty_VisionGlasses_Lenses_SM&hash=item5aee637f4c (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Head-magnifying-glass-LED-light-magnifier-hands-free-/390546554700?pt=UK_Health_Beauty_VisionGlasses_Lenses_SM&hash=item5aee637f4c)
http://www.hayneedle.com/sale/daylightnaturalight5inchmagnifier.cfm?srccode=cii_23393768&cpncode=30-126404316-2&source=channel_intelligence_amazon_hayneedle (http://www.hayneedle.com/sale/daylightnaturalight5inchmagnifier.cfm?srccode=cii_23393768&cpncode=30-126404316-2&source=channel_intelligence_amazon_hayneedle)
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Yeah, but be careful with the magnifying visor around women. Makes them wild.
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I have a soldering station already, but was trying to put together a list of everything.
Any suggestions, or does this list cover the items I need? http://www.amazon.com/lm/RR8MBV04TA0G/ (hopefully this is helpful for others as well who just want to one-stop shop)
+1 to BNAL's recommendation for that daylight magnifier, even when I'm not using the magnification I use it as a spotlight on my worktable.
For pliers and cutters, I prefer the smaller xcelite ones to those you listed. I get by with these:
175D (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FCHEC8) - cutters
378D (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UNFZPI) - pliers
NN7776V (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UN9THI) - needle nose pliers
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My favorites (may be expensive)
Fluke 87 V multimeter (with extra probes)
PanaVise 350 + 308 base
Hakko 936 soldering iron
Cardas quad eutectic solder
The meter is reliable and repeatable. I assume accurate as well.
The vise is great for circuit board holding while soldering.
The soldering station just works well.
I know the solder is controversial, and expensive, but I like it.
-dw
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936 is out of production.
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It seems that the hakko FX-888D is the replacement.
http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888d.html
I saw it on Amazon for about $90.
-dw
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I have a soldering station already, but was trying to put together a list of everything.
Any suggestions, or does this list cover the items I need? http://www.amazon.com/lm/RR8MBV04TA0G/ (hopefully this is helpful for others as well who just want to one-stop shop)
OK list modified per suggestions...
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Brad,
I recently linked a very similar magnifying light in Tech Tools that was on sale for ~$30. It is the one I am now using.
DW,
The Fluke is pretty accurate. The manual gives the specs. I haven't used anything else since 1984. I've always wanted a PanaVise, I just haven't treated myself to one.
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Digital Multimeter - I suggest a used Fluke for under $80, often under $50, nice, autoranging, some have capacitance measuring - you need a meter that will measure 200V AC and 500V DC (455V in Paramount) safely. Those are rounded to the next 100V increment above what is seen in Bottlehead kits.Edit: Check "reply #30" for a picture of a few suggested tools.
Can you recommend a place to buy them used at those prices? I'm looking for one, but can't seem to find any at that price point.
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I have always used a Fluke search on ebay and sorted by lowest price + shipping first. You have to get past the meter leads first.
I admit I haven't done this for a few months but I always find a few at a right price.
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I'll check it out, i had hoped to avoid ebay for an item like this.
Here's what I've gathered from various sources for someone looking for quality but will be using it sparingly:
Fluke 77 version iii or later
Fluke 115 or 117
Fluke 87v (way out of price range)
Fluke 179 (way out of price range)
Fluke 8060a (older)
Make sure lcd is ok, they often go flakey
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Yeah, but be careful with the magnifying visor around women. Makes them wild.
Nothing like the scent of solder to set a romantic mood eh Doc?
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Yeah, you guys may laugh, but the trick is to get your lover to wear the visor. Then you tell them to check out your junk. Wow! Johnny Wadd!
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They might not know who John Holmes was.
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The same people may not get the "hey Holmes" greeting.
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Just because there are so many new builders I'm bumping this. Too many have problems that would be solved if they read this.
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I working up the courage and gathering the tools to build a crack w/sb. One question: what about an anti-static mat and/or wrist strap? needed?
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The only parts that come in anti-static bags are the diodes. At least, when I buy them myself they come in one.
But that makes no sense. Processors and ICs need anti-static handling.
So, no, you don't need them unless you assemble a Bottlehead DAC, and they do that for you.
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Great list that covers everything except my patented tool holder. It keeps the bench neat and the pair of dykes :o that was on your lap from falling on the floor.
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I working up the courage and gathering the tools to build a crack w/sb. One question: what about an anti-static mat and/or wrist strap? needed?
Nope.
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I recently found an actual really good solder sucker while looking for some JIS screwdrivers! I've always wondered why they more or less follow the same (poor) design wherever I've looked. Of course no solder sucker is going to outperform a desoldering gun or other specialty tool, but like solder wick they're comparatively really easy and quick when they do work.
Especially this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432194018&sr=8-1-spell
I wish I'd had it when I was learning and screwed up a lot more often. Sure it's a little more expensive than your typical practically expendable solder sucker but absolutely worth it so far. Not only does it come with a far more heat resistant tip, but it's replaceable and enough for 5 or is included with it.
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Thanks for pointing out that solder sucker, looks really good & I need a decent one.
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I know I'm late to the party but I just found this to be really handy ...
A small tablet or smart phone with front and rear cameras.
I just shove it into places I can't readily see and take a picture. Even used some editing software to enhance detail...
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That is a good idea. I have neither but see the logic. I added it to advanced suggestions in the OP.
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Hi there. I'd like to get an opinion on the below soldering station and whether it would of high enough quality for a first-timer. I wanted to get the Hakko FX888D but in New Zealand it's well over $300NZ... pretty hard to justify.
Thanks heaps.
/www. jaycar .co.nz/48w-temperature-controlled-soldering-station/p/TS1564
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That looks like a good choice. They list a few replacement tips, I'd grab one of each when you buy the station.
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Thanks PB, appreciate the quick response!
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Hi there. I'd like to get an opinion on the below soldering station and whether it would of high enough quality for a first-timer. I wanted to get the Hakko FX888D but in New Zealand it's well over $300NZ... pretty hard to justify.
Cheapest price for the FX-888D I've found $238+GST @Synergy Electronics. I bought one a few years ago & not regretted the investment (but I do a lot of projects :D).
Had a generic station for a while, but the Hakko is so much better.
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I haven't seen any mention of nippers with a lead catcher, but after a few years of using the conventional kind, and then getting a pair of these, I find them indispensable.
https://www.amazon.com/Tsunoda-TH-125NC-Cutting-Pliers-Catcher/dp/B073V2X71S/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=tsunoda+nipper&qid=1556936763&s=gateway&sr=8-14
They hold onto the cut part of the lead, cable tie, or solder, even down to 0.1 mm wire. I'd recommend them to any first time builder - I wish I'd had them when I built my first kit. I don't know what the pros think of them. If there's a downside, it's inseparable from the purpose of the tool itself: you have to shake or push the cut part loose from the nippers before cutting the next piece. Simply opening the jaws isn't enough. But that's a more than acceptable tradeoff for not having to hold a hand over the piece you're cutting to prevent it flying off. You can even ditch the safety glasses while using them.