Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Mainline => Topic started by: Doc B. on May 17, 2013, 01:25:05 PM
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We got all the final details worked out and we are now taking orders for an initial run of 25 Mainline kits at a special price. I'm really happy with this one, it's the first headphone amp that can pull me away from my reference system.
http://www.bottlehead.com/store.php/products/mainline-headphone-amplifier-kit (http://www.bottlehead.com/store.php/products/mainline-headphone-amplifier-kit)
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Woo Hoo! Thank you for the orders!
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Just placed my mainline order. So excited to be a part of the initial run!
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Thank you! Orders are starting to pick up a little speed today. So if you are considering getting in on this pre-release price, ordering sooner will probably be safer than ordering later.
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Hey Doc, I ordered the mainline a couple days ago.
I built a smack before. Since it was the first amp i've ever built, i didn't care much about the "details", and this time..i wanted to pay a bit more attention to this amp...starting with the solder, was wondering if there's a specific type you would recommend. Silver?lead?
Thank you!
Kai
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starting with the solder, was wondering if there's a specific type you would recommend. Silver?lead?
Thank you!
I'm curious about Docs favorite solder too. Many people like the Kester 63/37, it's easy to work with and not too expensive. I personally like the Cardas solder, it's also easy to work with, has a low melting temperature, and contains a small amount of copper and silver. It's about 3x as expensive as the Kester though ;)
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Kester is fine, and Cardas is really nice. Truth is I inherited a lifetime supply of various spools from Buddha when he passed away. So we kinda pick thru it when a spool runs low and grab anything that looks interesting. Most of it is 63/37, some is 2% Ag. One thing to be careful of is old solder. It gets kinda oxidized and funky, and can be difficult to work with.
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Just in case Kai is from somewhere in Europe: WBT-0805 and/or Mundorf MSOLS are two types of solder that work well. Melting point is right around 220C for both. I'm pretty sure you can find those with a search engine. I would expect something like 25 Euros for 50g or so.
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Thanks all for the information.
I have been considering the Cardas solder for the past couple of days. Would it be better to use solder with lead or lead-free. Would someone explain the differences please?
Thank you!
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Would it be better to use solder with lead or lead-free. Would someone explain the differences please?
Solder with lead in it works, solder without lead doesn't.
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I agree, lead free solder sucks...John
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I agree, lead free solder sucks...John
Is it because lead free solder is more difficult to work with? or would it have an actual impact on the sound/performance?
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Difficult to work with.
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You win, preordered. :D
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Kai,
I used up a 60/40 pound roll of solder a few years back. I've had it since the 70s.
I bought a pound roll of Cardas Eutectic solder which will be my lifetime supply. I'm 63. Will be bequeathed to poster Paully.
The key to solder joints is getting the solder to "freeze" solid. The Eutectic solder is a mixture that freezes at the same temperature. So both, or all, components go from liquid to solid at the same temperature.
This makes it harder to make a bad solder joint.
'nuff said?
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You win, preordered. :D
Thank you! Mainline sales have been brisk this weekend.
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Kai,
I used up a 60/40 pound roll of solder a few years back. I've had it since the 70s.
I bought a pound roll of Cardas Eutectic solder which will be my lifetime supply. I'm 63. Will be bequeathed to poster Paully.
The key to solder joints is getting the solder to "freeze" solid. The Eutectic solder is a mixture that freezes at the same temperature. So both, or all, components go from liquid to solid at the same temperature.
This makes it harder to make a bad solder joint.
'nuff said?
Thank you for the info. Personally I have never used leaded solder in my life (I'm 22 btw), however somehow I have also never missed a single solder point. SMACK was the first amp I have ever built (I also didn't have almost any soldering experience before the SMACK), and it worked on the first time i turned it on. From the replies I think leaded solder is simply easier to work with, lower failure rates, but doesn't have an actual impact on the sound.
Thus, would it be fair to say that if I am conformable and confident using lead-free solder already, switching to leaded solder wouldn't be as meaningful?
Again thanks guys!
Kai
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FWIW, 63.37 is eutectic as well - just two components. Or so I've always understood.
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Kai,
Paul is saying that you don't have to spend the high dollars for eutectic solder. I'm just nuts!!
Thanks for posting your success. Too many first timers want to know if they can do it.
Your answer is, YES!
More newbies need to hear this.
I don't know why anyone wants to go to lead free solder. It won't harm you. The lead can't get into your system. It works better/easier than lead free. But if you feel safer, do it.
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It's the downstream problem that drives lead-free solder. If neither you nor your heirs ever send your creation to the landfill, it's no problem. :^)
Obviously by far the largest problem is throw-away consumer electronics; that's why there are lead-free solder regulations.
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So here's something interesting....
I was going through my toolbox, and I saw the label on the solder says...Sn60/Pb40....
Pretty sure it indicates that those are not lead-free solder.....
Alright....problem solved....I have always been using leaded solder and never used lead-free solder.....-.-
Somehow I thought the opposite, kool deal....cardas leaded it is
>.<
Kai