Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Legacy Kit Products => Submissive => Topic started by: Jim R. on June 21, 2013, 05:54:10 AM
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I'm considering building the submissive into my stereomour and need to know the dimensions of the switch assembly. That is, how much width and height on the top panel will this take, and how far below the top plate needs to be kept clear? What is the color of the overlay plate, and is it possible to make one's own if needed? I can always relocate the power switch on the stereomour and drill any necessary new holes, as long as the rest will fit in the space currently occupied by the selector switch, pot, and power switch.
Thanks,
Jim
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If you are interested in adding a Submissive to your Stereomour, it will be much, much, much simpler to build it in its own chassis.
To answer your specific questions: the switches mount on a sub-chassis that is 15cm wide. The highest point on the sub-chassis away from the main chassis is just under 4cm (that would be for standoffs, sub-chassis, terminal strips. More space than that would be better). Count on AT LEAST 5cm between the center of the switch holes and any other components, again for terminal strips.
The overlay is white text on black. You will need to fabricate your own to put it in a Stereomour, for a variety of reasons. First, if you are planning on reusing any existing holes, you will need to add two holes, as they are differently spaced (each switch hole is about 7.5cm apart on the Submissive, 9.5cm between the pot and the selector on the Steremour). Additionally, there are slots in the plastic that will most likely show the unused holes in your chassis. Finally, the selector switch is on the right on Submissive, but on the left on a Stereomour. To use the plastic plate would require moving the selector switch to the other side, thus require re-wiring all the inputs.
All in all, it would be a major undertaking to graft this onto a Stereomour. The design intent of the Submissive is to make it simple to add this attenuator to anything. If you buy one, you will get a well thought out chassis designed for the express purpose of serving this attenuator design. Simply plug it into an input on your Stereomour and turn up the pot. Also remember that down the line, you might want to use this attenuator with a different amp. Or sell your Stereomour, or sell your Submissive, or any number of different possible scenarios. The separate chassis will make those decisions not only simpler, but feasible.
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Hi Joshua,
Thanks for the info. As long as there is room to fit (which I will go measure), difficult installations don't bother me. On the other hand, there is no room for another box on the rack, so either I make it fit, or I pass this over. I'll have to do some measuring and think about it. The other system demands active preamplification though, and that is already well covered by the custom pre PB built for me.
-- Jim
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Hi Jim,
You have an interesting idea. I am liking my Submissive a lot. If it can fit, it would be worth the effort. I'm thinking about making a simple buffer to add the Submissive to (as a creative project...it sounds great on it's own...well, it sounds like nothing at all to me, exactly the point).
Best,
John
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The Submissive is 10" wide, it wouldn't be unreasonable to fabricate a wood base that could hold the switches on the front surface of the amplifier (more of a conventional arrangement).
You could have a metal shop snap off the back jack field on the Submissive and buy the kit sans base to get to the required destination.
(Josh, what's with all this metric BS, them panels are designed in inches!)
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PB's suggestion of an extended base makes sense. Just wire them directly. And everybody likes extended bass. ;) (for Jim, that was a winking smiley face after the homonym.)
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I was thinking more about cutting a hole in the front wood piece of the Stereomour base for this duty.
-PB
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PB,
I like how you think. A good idea but I'm afraid that I'm not going to chop up my spalted birch stereomour base for this. However, I have been giving some consideration to building a more traditional cabinet style s.e.x. 2.1 and this just may be the ticket for that.
John, always interested to see what you come up with. I see something about a Teac in your signature -- when you have time, can you send me an email and tell me what you found that led you to the teac? Just curious.
-- Jim
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(Josh, what's with all this metric BS, them panels are designed in inches!)
I was measuring stuff with a ruler, not looking at panel files. If given a choice, I'll pick the measurement system that doesn't require me to do math in my head any day of the week. Inches are a pain in the ass way of measuring short distances because I hate dealing with fractions.
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Uh-oh, get him farther away from the border. He's turning Canadian!
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John, always interested to see what you come up with. I see something about a Teac in your signature -- when you have time, can you send me an email and tell me what you found that led you to the teac? Just curious.
-- Jim
I'll send you a note, Jim. I've got my CAPS V2+ server running very nicely and it plays so beautifully with the Teac (PCM and especially DSD).
More in an e-mail...
Best,
John