Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: adamct on August 22, 2013, 07:03:57 PM
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Here they are, boys..... ;)
Below is a 200uf metalized polypropylene motor START cap that I bought by accident. These are NOT suitable for use in the Crack. They will explode if you try to install them. This one is shown here just for fun.
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956565/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956566/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956573/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
Below is a TEMCo 100uf oil-filled motor RUN capacitor. I plan on using two of these to replace the last 220uf electrolytic in the Crack power supply (i.e., the cap on the far left when looking at the underside of the Crack with the power supply on the far end of the chassis - the same view as in the manual).
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956571/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956572/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956574/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
Below is an Icar 200uf metalized polypropylene capacitor rated for AC and DC. I plan on using two of these, one to replace each of the other two 220uf electrolytic caps in the Crack power supply.
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956575/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956576/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956577/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
Left to right: Icar 200uf metalized polypropylene; Temco 100uf oil-filled motor RUN cap; soda can (sorry, all I had handy); Chinese motor START capacitor (Note that the small blue cap with Chinese characters is a motor START cap and therefore NOT suitable for use in the Crack).
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956578/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956579/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956581/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956580/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
ClarityCap 100uf 630V metalized polypropylene caps (Used in my Quickie)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956563/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/4956564/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
The ClarityCaps are much bigger than they appear in these pictures. In particular, they are extremely wide/fat.
In case you're wondering, I have 100uf Clarity Cap ESA 250V caps as coupling caps in my Crack, and 2.2uf Clarity Cap ESA 630V caps as coupling caps in my Quickie.
Enjoy!
Adam
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FYI, other than the ClarityCaps, all of the caps pictured above were $10-15 each on eBay.
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The large size of the studly caps, bodes well for your intended use...John
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Clarity caps are Manly caps!
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi576.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss207%2Fcorndog642%2FIMG_3097_zpsa942e4fa.jpg&hash=0dc6df724b7c2b0fac3f74ab400d847131a85077)
I forgot I had these. Tried them in a speaker but they weren't a good match with the tweeter. If anyone wants them let me know. It's a pair of 12uF and 15uF Clarity ESA caps in case you have trouble reading the labels.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi576.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss207%2Fcorndog642%2FIMG_3096_zpsbbff6a81.jpg&hash=8a23626b9cd28279301c12e706ac2abc3e778f25)
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I have some clarity ESA's in the foreplay III... They were obnoxiously bright in that application as well for the first 150 hours.
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I 'mona have to post in this thread. I'll take pictures tomorrow.
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Here's mine.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.staticflickr.com%2F5515%2F9374814772_ab408dc379_o.jpg&hash=cdd7e7a1b048dd4826dd7a198c0f34c87198e434)
Just changing the coupling caps. I have no problem with electrolytics in the power supply.
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I 'mona have to post in this thread. I'll take pictures tomorrow.
Can't wait! I look forward to it...
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Now boyzzz, is bigger better? Don't you it's how you use it that counts?
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I still like the Duelund - not to give you guys a complex or anything!
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Ok, maybe mine's not bigger. They have a lot of capacitance.
The Dueland are just obscene!
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FFor%2520Posts%2520Private%2FDSC02695_zpsa6c42c2e.jpg&hash=305761d6c674c0b80928d9d1ffd268947cb6c641)
Left to right: ?uF @900V DC, 1000uF @400V DC, 1400uF @450V DC 2200uF @400V DC and Diet Coke, decaffeinated. Who knows how many V DC it is rated at?
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Now boyzzz, is bigger better? Don't you it's how you use it that counts?
Ummmm....yeah. Sure, Greg. Keep telling yourself that. Whatever helps you get through the day....
;D
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Those Duelunds are crazy. What capacitance are the ones pictured? They don't even make them in high values, do they? So those gigantic things are...what, like 10uf?
Grainger, are those electrolytic caps? I like the looks of that one next to the Coke can...what can I say, I like shiny things!
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I have a thing for the russians..
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I still like the Duelund - not to give you guys a complex or anything!
Those aren't caps. They're coffee cans in disguise.
I have some clarity ESA's in the foreplay III... They were obnoxiously bright in that application as well for the first 150 hours.
That's surprizing. I've never found the ESA caps to be bright. I found them to be a bit dark in the upper treble.
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The duelunds are 300uf - probably the biggest they make. Custom order I'm sure!
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The ESAs have mellowed out nicely.. perhaps something else in the chain was exacerbating the problem. I have been tempted to grab some mundorf SIOs for it but havent managed to pull the trigger.
I am also interested in trying these.
http://www.theaudiofeast.com/UrushiCapacitors.html
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I have not heard of those... Kind of pricey for a no name! I would steer clear....
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I still like the Duelund - not to give you guys a complex or anything!
I need to hang a pair of those under my truck's back bumper. Don't MESS with me!
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***w0lfd0g lurks suspiciously in the shadows, jumps out and opens his trench coat to reveal.....
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:'( I'm too late to the party and have been outgunned.
***w0lfd0g slinks back into the shadows never to show his Crack again***
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Adam,
The two largest caps were in a 230V Variable Speed AC GE Drive that was retired. I don't remember why there are two values and voltage ratings. What it does is take AC convert it to DC then pulse width modulate the positive and negative DC buses to form variable frequency AC that drive AC motors. These are early and unsophisticated drives using SCRs. Not like today's drives that use IGBTs.
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Wolfy, I'm thinking that you wouldn't get far in an airport with those cans! They stopped me once for having an SPL meter.
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I win (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONDENSER-PRODUCTS-CORP-025-mfd-100-kV-CAPACITOR-/350690196294?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a6c3bb46). Game over.
:D
Adam
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Wolfy, I'm thinking that you wouldn't get far in an airport with those cans! They stopped me once for having an SPL meter.
I missed a flight home from Albuquerque due to TSA freaking out over 807 tubes and a potted PT. Used to get good surplus buys there, but long since dried up.
Cheers,
Geary
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Maxxximum CAPacity Crack (http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,4775.msg45699.html#msg45699) - a cautionary tale.
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Yes, Adam, it is a sickness.
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Count me among Capacitor-addicted...
Here is my B1 Buffer, with 10uF 400v PIO coupling caps...
They are NOS National Capacitor...I have also their 37uF big brother...they're almost the size of a brick!
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And these are their bigger brothers (I have 2!)
Ciao!
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Oh yeah, big caps!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-etXu6wLG5ls/TYI4mR8yDuI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/9_2axzCKupc/s320/Finished-Inside-2.jpg)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-QHpRcBXuQxw%2FTb3jzQyH9bI%2FAAAAAAAAAL8%2FBTOeOWv1FVk%2Fs320%2FSolen-Power-Update-2.jpg&hash=531b1d395980978034509b2b01d60e786e7a8212)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-2EFKjN3Ubpc%2FTdFiwMlOZzI%2FAAAAAAAAAMc%2FyvgEEW_zjYU%2Fs320%2F7-Paradisea-Open-Case.jpg&hash=0873fd3a2be43f6700e12d0a3756b8cdd45fe36c)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F--9HVdXvbtAQ%2FUZZgOmW5W3I%2FAAAAAAAABeE%2FPY7KPn6N8P4%2Fs320%2FFinished-Internals.jpg&hash=e811f1a56f20616f6eb276e66fa24b725214ea03)
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I love your work. From memory, the 2nd and 4th pictures are your two Cracks, is that right? What are the first and third pictures of?
Also, based on my recent experience, I HIGHLY recommend that you consider replacing the two electrolytics you left in each of your Cracks...
Finally, can you remind me where you get that cap mounting hardware, or what you use for it?
Thanks!
Adam
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Oh yeah, big caps!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-etXu6wLG5ls/TYI4mR8yDuI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/9_2axzCKupc/s320/Finished-Inside-2.jpg)
Those big puppies look like the AmpOhm paper/oils... I go me some of them. I have to say though, they were just demoted to the subwoofer crossover duty. My new (small) 10uF Queen's are the Mudorf EVO alum/oil. Evo's are more "mature" IMO. In the spirit of disclosure, I do have them bypassed with a silver/oil. If I had the cash I would go with the silver/oil and be done.... Alas... We dream/pine.
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I ordered up 2 Dayton 100 uF, 250 V caps as they were a quarter inch smaller diameter than the Solens. Solens would not fit (or would be too close for my liking) and the Daytons fit nice in the stock base glued to the plate with silicone bathtub caulk.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.staticflickr.com%2F3804%2F9666763480_daff72be30_o.jpg&hash=265c97406f448a1a0820cacb4278e0bbc4ae137b)
Had to remove the 2 end terminals of the middle terminal strip, but that is no problem as they are just there for mounting the stock caps.
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...the Daytons fit nice in the stock base glued to the plate with silicone bathtub caulk.
Well, that answers the question I asked in your post in the Gallery thread. Nice job!
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Moved to Output Capacitor Upgrading Questions (Crack)
http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,1723.195.html
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I saw these Thomson-FSG86-9302-B-Film-Capacitor-100uF-400V on ebay while looking no good for me in the uk but thought that anyone US based might be interested.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Ft%2F2-Thomson-FSG86-9302-B-Film-Capacitor-100uF-400V-70A-%2F00%2Fs%2FNDgwWDY0MA%3D%3D%2Fz%2F6scAAMXQtRxSInov%2F%24T2eC16V%2C%21wsE9suw%29p0yBSInouqfU%21%7E%7E60_3.JPG&hash=a7c83035abe791c889b1d5d99c0544e8cbdb8d03)
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I had considered picking up a pair of those, but wasn't so excited that the +/- terminals are on different sides, and you essentially need to use one of them to ground the thing and mount it.
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Don't know if this was already mentioned but be careful, at 400V and the more Farad you have the more dangerous it gets. Energy of a cap: 1/2 * 0,0001F * 400^2V = 8 Joules. If you have like 5 to 10 times as much F this can be really dangerous if touched while fully charged. Caps are quite efficient to f**k someone up. (>20Joules can be enough).
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Don't know if this was already mentioned but be careful, at 400V and the more Farad you have the more dangerous it gets. Energy of a cap: 1/2
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Thanks, didn't know that.
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Its always feels good when you arrive home from work to find the post man has left you a little brown parcel. A Russian Teflon capacitor For about the same price as a cup of coffee, it has just got to be given a try!
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1035533/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1035536/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
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I'm a big fan of these. They are the "Bang For The Buck" winners. But I have to admit that the V-Cap Teflons are better at about 50 times the price.
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Ahh yes the K72P, i have a few of them squirreled away. After i fitted FT3 teflons into my SEX amp (which made an amazing difference) i collected a lot of Russian caps to experiment with. Never did get around to experimenting with power supply bypass caps as i cant figure out a way to measure/test the difference.
I have also used K75 PIO's in a CMOY build, caps are bigger than the amp ;D
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I got a matched set of Russian PIO caps with my VTA ST120 kit. I'm still building it so I don't know how they sound yet.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi576.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss207%2Fcorndog642%2FVTA%2520ST120%2FIMG_8453_zpse4895657.jpg&hash=610116aa8e32804080e1ef5fb657a6ef0dbdb30c)
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I use Russian otput caps also on my quickie with good results (k75 PIO bypassed with k72 teflon).
I found this pic on the net that shows how to connect russian caps, hope it helps.
Ciao!
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I thought if you used a cap as an interstage cap you had the outer wraps toward the driver stage. I know the outer foil goes to the ground in the power supply and toward the output terminals at the output tube.
looks like the only indication is the direction of the writing.
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There is a small symbol on the left, it looks like a "C", that is the indicator of outher and inner foil.
I also red on the net that the symbol is wrong sometimes ;D
Ciao!
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I soldered the Russian Teflon K72P6 into the Crack this morning, it is 0.056uf in value. The smaller black capacitor which it is cable tied to is a JFX 2.2uf metalized film
The first impression is phew a big relief nothing sounds any worse!
Initial impressions with the Teflon in the chain are encouraging.
I have read it can take a while for the Teflon caps to settle down?
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1036083/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1036082/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1036094/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
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Teflons can take forever to settle down, on Grainers advice i had mine connected to an amp to burn in so they had ~50hours on them. Once installed they still didnt sound right for another week of solid use so the recommend 100-150hours is about right in my experience.
Having said that it may differ when used in power supplys vs the audio chain.
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I use Russian otput caps also on my quickie with good results (k75 PIO bypassed with k72 teflon).
I found this pic on the net that shows how to connect russian caps, hope it helps.
Ciao!
FYI - the inner/outer foils on those caps are not consistent with respect to the lettering. (As the image you posted would suggest)
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Ciao Paul,
I spotted this image on a thread on diyaudio about russian caps and on other russian sites.
The symbol that indicate inner and outher foil is printed near wattage and tolerance info.
I don't know if it's always right, as I also spotted a post where some caps were opened proving that the symbol was uncorrect (but it was only one post against lots of sites).
Thank you for your info, is always difficult to know who's right on the net.
Ciao!
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interesting info on the inner outer foil C symbol. thanks I did not know this. Looking again on the capacitor the symbol does now make some sense.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.head-fi.org%2F3%2F34%2F900x900px-LL-34681b3c_007.jpeg&hash=69e8b0468f41951890760ef254071f3275dfb572)
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Ok, first let's say that having the outer foil in the right orientation can give additional noise rejection. It doesn't affect the sonic characteristics.
Then I have to note that all the KKs (Kommie Kaps) have metal shields outside the cap itself. That rejects noise.
But maybe we can measure the cap and find the outer foil like measuring the outer wraps on a coil. PJ told me to measure capacitance from one lead to the outer plastic wrap of a choke, then the other lead. The lowest capacitance is the outer winding.
I always like the pragmatic answer.
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I found this recently re testing caps to find the inner/outer foil. Haven't tried it myself but it seems plausible..
http://jimmyauw.com/2010/04/24/observing-inner-and-outer-foil-of-some-popular-capacitors/ (http://jimmyauw.com/2010/04/24/observing-inner-and-outer-foil-of-some-popular-capacitors/)
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I found this recently re testing caps to find the inner/outer foil. Haven't tried it myself but it seems plausible..
http://jimmyauw.com/2010/04/24/observing-inner-and-outer-foil-of-some-popular-capacitors/ (http://jimmyauw.com/2010/04/24/observing-inner-and-outer-foil-of-some-popular-capacitors/)
Yep have seen that also seem to recall seeing something similar on youtube.
I wondered what the pros here thought of the pocket or pc (laptop) based scopes?
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Is there a way to find which is the outer wrap on a non metallic cap like the Mundorf M Cap without having to buy an oscilloscope?
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Ciao Paul,
I spotted this image on a thread on diyaudio about russian caps and on other russian sites.
The symbol that indicate inner and outher foil is printed near wattage and tolerance info.
I don't know if it's always right, as I also spotted a post where some caps were opened proving that the symbol was uncorrect (but it was only one post against lots of sites).
Think i found a flaw in that theory.. i chose the top as the in side, cant remember why i came to that conclusion.
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Think i found a flaw in that theory.. i chose the top as the in side, cant remember why i came to that conclusion.
Wow! never seen such a big ft3!
Well, it seems the inner foil is market with a diamond. Can you please check if the diamond-like symbol is printed on one side of the cap?
Ciao!
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Wow! never seen such a big ft3!
Well, it seems the inner foil is market with a diamond. Can you please check if the diamond-like symbol is printed on one side of the cap?
Ciao!
They are the .1uf variety, i believe those and the uber rare .22uf versions are the largest of the FT teflons. Both are dwarfed by the 4.7uf K75 PIO Green giants, those are 4-5" long.
I dont see any markings anywhere else on them other than the section shown.
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I, very recently, saw a 0.47uF for sale. I don't remember the voltage rating.
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On the subject of Teflon and PIO when used for bypassing is it a case of the larger the capacitor value related at all to the amount of sonic influence imparted by the bypassing cap or is the sonic influence generally consistent due to a given ratio used?
eg
100uf-1uf bypass
200uf-2.2uf bypass
Or are results more subjective and inconsistent?
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I, very recently, saw a 0.47uF for sale. I don't remember the voltage rating.
Never seen those before, they are indeed larger but only 200v http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Russian-Teflon-Capacitor-FT-3-0-47uF-470nF-200V-1pc-or-more-/221121984986 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Russian-Teflon-Capacitor-FT-3-0-47uF-470nF-200V-1pc-or-more-/221121984986)
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On the subject of Teflon and PIO when used for bypassing is it a case of the larger the capacitor value related at all to the amount of sonic influence imparted by the bypassing cap or is the sonic influence generally consistent due to a given ratio used?
eg
100uf-1uf bypass
200uf-2.2uf bypass
Or are results more subjective and inconsistent?
The results are more subjective and inconsistent.
If there is an effect, it resides in more subtle details than just the capacitance.
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February 18, 2014
Capacitor Update time.
First off,
Russian Teflon K72P6, used to bypass the 2.2uf film cap which was itself used as a bypass on the last 220uf electrolytic in the Crack power supply.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.head-fi.org%2Fe%2Fe0%2F900x900px-LL-e041cbb5_011.jpeg&hash=8d0aa5df1cb3f55139430932f9ab92a711287169)
K72P6 Impressions with just over 200hrs on the clock.
I have noticed a slight change in sonics specifically to the top end the most, it is very subtle but smoother, with what I can only describe as an easiness in its smoothness. Less grain and better resolution but without any hint of the normally associated brightness that I have experience before with such resolution. Its not a wow instantly noticeable sonic signature instead it just blends in as part of the whole picture bringing a touch of refinement. It kind of needs to be listen for specifically in order to get a handle just what has changed. But does come across in the whole.
I would like to say I have no plans to remove the Teflon as I am really loving the sound coming from my Crack at the moment it is absolutely sublime with my Beyerdynamic T1 headphones. It is with some trepidation and no doubt a good dose of stupidity I am going to continue swapping capacitor types and positions in a vain attempt to get a grasp of some of the character the different capacitors types can impart.
Whether or not the changes might improve, on what I currently think could well be perfection for me is yet to be discovered.
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So my Crack cap rolling odyssey continues.
This time its the turn of a pair of Jantzen z- superior's, experimenting with them used as bypass caps for the JFX 100uf films and later in combinations with some pio film's (polypropylene film in oil, not paper) and some Hybrid mylar, paper and aluminium film in oil variants.
Back to the Jantzen who interestingly state their Z caps require no burn in.
From the Jantzen website
"Superior Cap Even the finest nuances can be heard.The sound never gets over-edged, really superb naturalness with a somewhat bright top-end. Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Caps are absolutely high-end components, delivering a natural, almost holographic sound stage. Even the finest nuances can be heard."
I am pleased to say this is very much inline with my own impressions the difference over the JFX alone is instantly quite noticeable. I am wondering if the "somewhat bright top-end" will settle down at all. And while its not " over-edged" it is walking a fine line with the T1 headphones and the accentuation of sibilance on some tracks I find just a tad to much for my personal taste. So I hope this might calm down with a little time on the clock.
Everything else is just dandy I particularly like the effect the Jantzen has with the bass it seams more expansive and deeper. There is some really nice ambiance coming through on live recordings
Following on it does suit the HD650's rather well also.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.head-fi.org%2Fb%2Fb1%2F900x900px-LL-b1f613cc_0012.jpeg&hash=e18c4d3f4b071bcdcb764c7a43f894db7de460b9)
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Jamie, what value jantzen caps did you use as bypass? I'm interested to try them out myself. I have the Mundorf MKP 100 uF.
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Jamie, what value jantzen caps did you use as bypass? I'm interested to try them out myself. I have the Mundorf MKP 100 uF.
Hi a quick reply The Jantzen Superior Z-Cap was 0.47uF.
I will post some thoughts a little later on. The Jantzen is quiet impressive in its abilities but ultimately I found for my tastes the pairing was not quiet right in that configuration.
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They are the .1uf variety, i believe those and the uber rare .22uf versions are the largest of the FT teflons. Both are dwarfed by the 4.7uf K75 PIO Green giants, those are 4-5" long.
I dont see any markings anywhere else on them other than the section shown.
I have searched in my parts bin and I found two 0.22uf cap I bought some times ago (I forgot I have them). You're right about the diamond mark, me too cannot see it. I think you've found the bug in the theory!
Good point!
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This might interest a few here and could be a bit of a find. It is also hot off the press having been only recently listed.
Top of the line made in the US by RTI Electronics Teflon capacitors measure 10uf +/-10% at 310VDC, matching to 2-3% offered at $80 each!
Some further info that's not in the sales description, apparently they were designed for the output of a reference quality preamplifier using 6H30Pi tubes. RTI Electronics supplies several types of this capacitor to this manufacturer and there was a mix up. These caps cost the company that ordered them well over $100 each and that was at a bulk rate.
The name of the amp manufacturer would not be disclosed to me. However it is very high probability it is Audio Research imo.
From the web
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fusr.audioasylum.com%2Fimages%2F0%2F558%2FIMG_1770.JPG&hash=27b9186892f8d66f557cf316bbd4e2804ee7161f)
Sales pic
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftctubes.com%2Fimages%2Fproducts%2Fthumb%2F5216_TEFLON_CAP_800.JPG&hash=ac188514209301601e18e2d135bc3a76b3286cdc)
The seller TC Tubes and Audio Research are both located in Minnesota a short distance from each other.
http://tctubes.com/teflon-capacitor.aspx
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You are correct, its one of those if you need to ask you cant afford it pre amplifiers.
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Short update on the Jantzen Superior Z
I am glad I gave the Jantzens some time to burn in they have defiantly improved. The very annoying sibilance that was initial prevalent (testing with my most prevalent recordings for it)has noticeably diminish.
The sound continued to improve across the spectrum and with it a shift in the equilibrium appearing with the balance between liquidity and authority. The Jantzen signature is more dominant and overriding. Super Resolution and fast transients spacious stage override.
Resolution, on some uber fast Spanish guitar pieces is astonishing not only able to hear notes as normal but also the attack of the plectrum hitting the strings on each strum behind the notes quiet amazing considering the speed.
With further listening and burn this combination for me has swung to far to the clinical side with its authority and dominance at the expense of musicality.
The softness and naturalness of texture in timbre and tones which beguiled is being drowned out. I removed the Jantzens from this combination so I could re-reference the sound. I will try them again later with some pio caps and see if it�s a more pleasing combination. The Jantzens are certainly very good caps and I think many would like what they bring to the table.
A couple of progress pics.
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1046443/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1046445/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
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I was a little bored over the weekend so i tried an experiment with bypass caps on my AC quickie. The final stage of the supply is a 47uf Panasonic electrolytic which i tried bypassing with a .47uf Mundorf MKP. I was more curious to see if i could detect/measure any difference at all, i was dubious about it as the cap feeds into two plate chokes so i wasn't expecting to find anything.
Surprising thing is i did notice a difference, i was using a pair of crocodile clips so i was able to add the cap in/out instantly while listening to music. First thing i noticed was anytime i connected the bypass something changed ~2-3 seconds after, i assume the delay was due to the cap charging and the supply stabilizing. What the difference was i was hearing i couldn't figure out initially but after about an hour of messing about i had narrowed down the difference to dynamics, for example i found a beat track which starts with quite percussion then a loud drum beat comes in. Using that track on a loop and connecting/disconnecting the bypass i found with the bypass the drum hits were rounder and more fleshed out. I then tried listening to music with large dynamic shifts, some classical, some old school metal like Black Sabbath as they have lots of changes from low volume to a sudden spike when the bass guitar and drums all come in at once. By looping those sections and adding/removing the bypass i found the changes sounded weak and flat without the bypass.
I really didn't know what to make of this so with a little research i found two schools of thought, the first being low capacity caps, especially poly have a lower ESR and present a lower resistance path for high frequencies. Doesn't really explain the differences i was hearing. The other school of thought is low ESR, and especially poly caps have a faster response to current changes. In my limited understanding of plate chokes i thought that was exactly their benefit, the ability to resist current changes and smooth the supply to the valve. So is it possible that the poly cap was filling in a gap whenever there was a large shift, or is there some other more rational explanation?
I would love to hear from the BH guys on this, i'm sure you could write a book on the subject of power supply design so i would be very interested to hear what your experiences, and theory have to say on the subject.
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Interesting I was doing a similar thing with the crossovers capacitors in my speakers today. Swapping in and out a couple of types, I tried the Jantzens and what a difference they made.
The speakers I have been quiet satisfied with for the last 20 years now sounded weak and flat sound just as you described without the Jantzens bypass. For me the Jantzens made for a better pairing with the speakers than with the Crack .
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1053430/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1053557/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
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Crack Cap rolling update
Cascade bypass of JFX 100uf Premium film audio coupling capacitors
Bypassed with
Russian K75-10 Hybrid Paper and Polyethylene Terephthalate in Oil (Mylar)
Bypassed with
Russian Teflon K72P6 Teflon
Beyer T1 and TS 5998 used for listening
I find myself enjoying the pairing of these capacitors they sound much better than the odd look they have shoehorned into the enclosure and held together with cable ties might suggest.
It has taken over 200hrs for the combination to settle down and a more coherent and refined sound to emerge.
With the Crack I find the K75-10 really very musical, fluid and engaging, PRaT is good its has a slightly dark flavour at lower volumes. John L mentions “jest and pop†in the presentation in his capacitor review ( https://www.head-fi.org/t/284863/orgy-of-capacitors-the-cap-thread) this comes through strongly and is very much akin to listening to vinyl on my Rega Planner 3, Just instant tow tapping head nodding enjoyment. Its a very engaging sound.
Here’s the thing with the K75-10 I find it very musical the downside is the roll off. The top end has lost a lot of its crispness, gone is the metallic ting on triangles and cymbals which have now turned to softer schings instead of the crisp detailed ting, the bass is also a little loose and bloomy.
So I tried adding a K72P6 Teflon bypass to the K75-10 things started to improve while still keeping much of the K75-10 character. With over 200hrs burn in the K72P6 Teflon influence on the top end has settled down and it makes for a much more coherent and refined sound, which the K75-10 lacked on its own.
Details and resolution are vastly improved while still keeping some of the zest and pop which I found engaging.
The aspect I have found most pleasing with this combination is the vocal presentation, both male and female voices come across beautifully with nice tone and texture and enough detail in the resolution to pick up the little nuances in word formation and expression. I am wondering if this might be attributed to the Teflon capacitor or some kind of averaging out taking place.
The film and Teflon bypass capacitor combinations are throwing up some surprises and these Russian ex-military capacitors I have been experimenting with cost about the same as a cup of coffee each.
This is a combination that I could happily listen to for a long time.
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1046447/width/350/height/700/flags/LL) (https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1046445/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
I will be marking this combo up just in case it goes back in.
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Here is an interesting one, four 50uf 250v Polypropylene caps for £12.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-F-T-Polypropylene-Film-Capacitors-50uF-10-250Vdc-/161242280250?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item258ac9f13a (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-F-T-Polypropylene-Film-Capacitors-50uF-10-250Vdc-/161242280250?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item258ac9f13a)
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Here is an interesting one, four 50uf 250v Polypropylene caps for £12.
Seamed rude not to pick a quad up for rolling. Think I might try a single 50 with a bypass and then two paralleled. See how they sound with the 600ohm T1
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Well the planets must have been in alignment as a combination of trying and liking the Russian K75-10 Hybrid Paper and Polyethylene Terephthalate (Mylar) In Oil 2.2uf bypass used with the 100uf films in my Crack and then seeing a pic of Geary's own very interesting Crack build with the PIO caps in the choke thread really sparked my interest.
Then it happened I stumbled across some K75-40b 100uf PIO capacitors for $15 each including delivery from Lithuania. Curiosity got the better of me and I just had to give these behemoths a try. Worst case is they get relisted and I am out of pocket for a few dollars but man they going to give me one hell of a lot of entertainment value to try out in the Crack!
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Ft%2FK75-40B-PIO-Paper-In-Oil-TUB-capacitor-100uF-1000V-10-%2F00%2Fs%2FMTI1MFgxMDM2%2Fz%2Fah4AAOxyBvZTT3uu%2F%24_57.JPG&hash=f0b9e8bbada8733bb94ebf144cb2f03aade74e5d)
Geary's build
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FvTQTH1Q.jpg%3F1&hash=fd71624c092c659c987e45be9e15379be52ef8f7)
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Awesome! How do they sound?
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You should put that cap next to a pop can, I bet the pop can is quite a bit smaller.
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I only purchased them yesterday so will need to wait around a week for delivery, the pic is the sellers ebay one. When they arrive will post a pic with a soda can for scale they will require a separate enclosure for sure.
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I'm a big fan of those caps for two reasons, they are good sounding caps and they look so cool!
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Well top marks to the Lithuanian ebay seller the capacitors arrived today and I was really surprised they are a lot smaller than I had envisaged which is excellent news. Pics with a 6080 for scale
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/5966410/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/5966411/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/5966412/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/5966414/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
Hopefully I will have time to get them connected up for trial listen over the week end.
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Lazy Sunday morning here, Coffee, Croissants & honey + K75 Caps ;D
The K75 100uf's capacitors were hooked up yesterday and I am very please they have turned out to be a epic combination in the Crack. Its really surprised me because temporarily they are connected with some alligator clips and fly leads! I'm pondering on a more permanent solution while waiting on some more hook up wire.
At the moment my 100uf JFX films with the Teflon bypass are still all soldered in with the K75 100uf's just clipped into the circuit giving 210uf total twice the norm! So it will be interesting to see what changes when I take the 100uf JFX's out the Teflon will be staying.
Detail, tone, musicality, timbre, bass PRat all feel improved but what has surprised me the most is the increase in resolution new instruments backing singers and related venue noises on live recordings room/hall/ Cathedral ambiance, audience noise a whole bunch of new detail is coming through for the first time, its a engaging listen with the T1's and made for a late night yesterday as the one more track kept going into the small hours,
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/5973001/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/5973003/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/5973004/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
edit added for scale
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/5973078/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
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how does it sound ..?
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how does it sound ..?
Easily the best to date.
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how does it sound ..?
Easily the best to date.
Jamie,
They will need a good bit of burn in. One they have settled down, you might try a bypass cap of about .1uf, (PIO, film/foil), for the high frequencies. My experience with K75's is that they are marvelous in the mid range. This is not exactly a neutral cap. That wonderful mid range is euphoric coloring. (That is really enjoyable if you don't want purist neutrality!) But they need some help at the high frequencies. I have no experience with these high capacitance Hulks, (most I have used is 10uF). But I have found the higher the capacitance of the K75, the more the need to add a little high frequency kick.
Cheers,
Geary
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Jeary thanks and noted, the capacitors had been removed from some radio equipment so am hoping any burn in required will be brief I'm intending to keep the 10uf teflons in place the resolution of the k75 + Teflon is very good better than the jfx 100uf films+Teflon. It will be interesting to see how the k75's are to live with longer term, if that engaging musicality they deliver grows tiring or not.
Cheers
Jamie
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I got my hands on three of these Solen 630v 33uf poly caps on eBay for £6. I thought they would be perfect to replace the two final 22uf lytics, or bypass the 100uf caps in the main power supply. Only issue is they are 45x65mm so i cant physically fit them in anywhere :'(
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Mark I couldn't resist trying out some 1uf Hovland Supercaps courtesy of ebay also.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Ft%2FHovland-Supercap-1uf-400vdc-audio-capacitors-%2F00%2Fs%2FMTYwMFgxMjAw%2Fz%2FYP4AAOxyi-ZTbT-2%2F%24_1.JPG&hash=a13d7c1073ba65f981d7ff1c20d3f96ea3f9c71d)
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Certainly a name i have heard of, are you going to use them in the audio path or power supply?
Found these today which are interesting, 100uf metalized polypropylene tubs.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291127472802 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291127472802)
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I will give them a try out as a bypass in the audio. I've also been pondering over these Icar 200uf caps for the power supply price is really good for experimenting but the shipping hurts!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230968898220?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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They are cheap. Did you ever try out the 50uf F&T's? I've seen rumors they manufacture caps for Mundorf.
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Not yet Mark my RTI teflons arrived at about the same time and I rushed to put them in, then they took ages to burn in and now the Cracks sounding so epic with those big K75 100ufs in the circuit as well I cant bring myself to take them out at the moment I'm enjoying the sound so much! I found a few references to F&T oem manufacturing for Mundorf as well by the way. I will just have to bite the bullet and swap them over for a while sometime soon.
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Jamie,
Check the size of them first. I have a pair of ICAR caps that are half the size of my Paramours, or half the size of one Paramour.
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Thanks Grainger I did see your pic of them! I think postage to the UK is going to make them a bit to expensive and I have a couple of other options to think about also but it would have been fun to try them out even if only connected with some fly leads! If I can get the parts for a good price I don't mind experimenting its been a lot of fun and hopefully I can get back my money back or at least close to it by reselling on ebay or other forums once done. I've been able to roll some nice tubes this way and am happy enough if I just cover my costs and occasionally make a little extra to put towards the next purchase.
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I decided to pass on those big ICARs in the end.
Latest caps rolled in the Crack.
A pair of pre-loved EPCOS (Siemens) 750v100uf polypropylene in oil films (non audio caps). With a bit of shoe horning I think these will fit in the Cracks enclosure. I have just connected them externally at the moment.
These Epcos are very nice sounding caps imho and seem to be the equal to any of the audio branded mkp films I have tried to date while also providing that liquid effortlessness in presentation that only the pio's can yet still combined with plenty of details and rich smooth vocals.
I later tried bypassing them with a pair of Hovland Supercaps 1uf/400vdc with good effect. Increased detail and clarity a sense of intimacy vocal presentation with some familiar tracks. With the Hovland's added the presentation also felt slightly faster than that of Epcos PIO's on their own.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.head-fi.org%2Fe%2Fe0%2F900x900px-LL-e0edc355_0012.jpeg&hash=b08df521c1735b9a5660411451e8fb70f1fa5a88)
Edit also later tried bypassing them with some K71-7 Polystyrenes
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/6074065/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
Edit tried the Jantzens superior z cap also
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1112574/width/350/height/700/flags/LL)
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I found some well specced Epcos MKP film motor run capacitors +/- 2.5 % to try as coupling caps. At 45mm x 110mm including the mounting stud which could be cut off they fit comfortably inside the Cracks enclosure.
It actually didn't come as a surprise that I found them similar to the Solen and JFX audio films but at only £4 each delivered are a fraction of the price! I think they may even have a touch less glare to them as well although I have only have about 10hrs of listening time on them and have yet to try any bypassing.
They actually will fit in quiet easily but my speedball switches and choke mount height it made the fit a little more awkward in my crack and I had to position them a little closer to other components than would be ideal to squeeze them in. The angle makes the studs and end connections look closer to the attenuator and head jack than they are in reality.
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/6109101/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
Epcos for the last cap in the power supply also!
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/6109323/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
Size comparison with a Solen 100uf 400v
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/6109099/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/image/id/6109098/width/900/height/900/flags/LL)
Data sheet http://www.epcos.com/inf/20/25/ds/B32321_B32323.pdf
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Just for the fun, before pulling the trigger on MKP capacitors, I offered the candidates a form factor test drive to see if they could fit in the crack case.
Here is the converged plan :
- a SCR PA22000 250 V 220μF to replace the last 220μF capacitor on the power supply
- bypassed by a russian K72P6 Teflon 56nF
- a C7-X shoke to replace the last 270ohm resistor
- two JB JFX 100μF 250V to replace the output electrolytic capacitors
- bypassed by two russian K75-10 Paper In Oil 4.7μF 250V
- bypassed by two russian K72P6 Teflon 56nF 500V
- bypassed by two russian SGM Mica 1nf 350V
I started by making a CAD model of the Crack. It's well spend time, I'm sure I'll will reuse it later...
Already having the very low cost PIO, Teflon and Mica on the advice of the forum, I explored the MKP candidates among the low cost ones. I compared the different form factors and tried placements…
Here in pictures is the result of my tests.
Next-steps, receive more wire to update the cabling, order the MKPs and fit everything for real !
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Snarri,
That is quite beyond brilliant. Would you be willing to share out a copy of your CAD models? I've never actually used CAD myself, but your models are making me think.
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Just for the fun, before pulling the trigger on MKP capacitors, I offered the candidates a form factor test drive to see if they could fit in the crack case.
Here is the converged plan :
- a SCR PA22000 250 V 220μF to replace the last 220μF capacitor on the power supply
- bypassed by a russian K72P6 Teflon 56nF
- a C7-X shoke to replace the last 270ohm resistor
- two JB JFX 100μF 250V to replace the output electrolytic capacitors
- bypassed by two russian K75-10 Paper In Oil 4.7μF 250V
- bypassed by two russian K72P6 Teflon 56nF 500V
- bypassed by two russian SGM Mica 1nf 350V
I started by making a CAD model of the Crack. It's well spend time, I'm sure I'll will reuse it later...
Already having the very low cost PIO, Teflon and Mica on the advice of the forum, I explored the MKP candidates among the low cost ones. I compared the different form factors and tried placements…
Here in pictures is the result of my tests.
Next-steps, receive more wire to update the cabling, order the MKPs and fit everything for real !
If i will have those nice big CAPS and some other goodies i will make a case so that i can install all those goodies on top instead of hidden inside the case that no one would see but then again that just me.I like your ideas as will.Thanks!
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I have two Hammond 159M chokes. Specs, 15H, 100 ma, 256 Ohm.
I may have access to three 300uF caps for the power supply.
Can I use these cap values of 300uF instead of the 220uF with two 159M chokes?
Also I have a Mac and cannot use the PSUD2. Is there a Mac equivalent?
Thanks.
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Seems like the 159M chokes should be fine, I'm just concerned if the extra 80uF per cap will cause Circuit problems.
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300uf caps will work well, provided they have at least a 250V rating.
I think WINE should run PSUD on your Mac.
-PB
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I think WINE should run PSUD on your Mac.
HA! I've infected your brain, Peebs!
And yes, it will run under WINE.
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When it does run the PC software it's called WINE.
When it doesn't it's called WHINE.
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Thanks for the replies.
I have some big 300uf coming. Perhaps...
Guess I'll be trying the 12" x 12" chassis route. ;D
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Still waiting for the power supply SCR PA22000 MKP cap, but as expected with the simulation, the 1st part was fitted without any surprise. I just had to drill one of the SP card to make the appropriate room for the Valab 23 100k log. stepped attenuator
(One of the) next steps :
- try to reuse some unused SB tracks and holes to hold the leds for my 7119 PQ modification
- implement the SB resistor hack to optimize my different input tubes
- machine a delrin part to hold the C7X shoke and the PS cap
and the case will be full 8)
The new output cap are a significant upgrade over the electrolytics. Need to listen more music and find the appropriate english words ;D to qualify the change, but a lot more presence, transparency and sweetness are a good start of approximation.
And my 7802WB, my SN6WGTA, my VT231 doesn't make their huge hum. Probably no need for the grid stopper mod output tube anymore.
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That is an impressive fit!
I see You have drilled the small SB B PCB. Did You drill with increasingly big bits or just go ahead with the right size for the # 4 screw?
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I've drilled directly to the required size (as I did for the Valab 23 in the soft aluminium), just putting hard foam under the board to prevent flexion and clamping it by hand while descending. I know that's probably overkill 8) for such a task, but I have the chance to possess a mill with precision moves on all 3 axis, thats very very helpfull to center the bit. Very low force is needed to drill the pcb.
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That's what I want for Christmas...John
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Put me up for one too!... :)
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After solidworks theory to validate the choice and placement of components (post #96), now place to the construction.
Here are the power supply modifications :
- a SCR PA22000 250 V 220μF to replace the last 220μF capacitor on the power supply
- a C7-X shoke to replace the last 270ohm resistor
input stage modifications :
- Valab 23 stepped attenuator 100k log. The right small speedball board need to be redrilled 5mm away. The top plate needs a larger hole too.
- switchable resistor R1 mod to optimize plate operation voltage for my 12BH7A's
- replacement of the LMJE350 by MJE5731 on the 2 small speedball boards.
- switchable rewiring to accept 7119/5687 input tube (see Modifications to run e80cc/12bh7a/5687 for Crack+Speedball thread http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,5989.135.html (http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,5989.135.html))
output stage modifications :
- 2 x 220R grid stopper resistor needed by 7802WB before capacitor upgrade
- two JB JFX 100μF 250V to replace the output electrolytic capacitors
- bypassed by two russian K75-10 Paper In Oil 4.7μF 250V
- bypassed by two russian K72P6 Teflon 56nF 500V
- bypassed by two russian SGM Mica 1nf 350V
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.4shared.com%2Fdownload%2F3SMRnnbkce%2FCrack-1.jpg%3Flgfp%3D3000&hash=21f667fe585dd04f217440ebdbdad0ebd6cc775e)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.4shared.com%2Fdownload%2FZFd3zee9ba%2FCrack-2.jpg%3Flgfp%3D3000&hash=b991b5cd9053c04147fd9dfb8f91c5c4dcfdf9a2)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.4shared.com%2Fdownload%2FIyANhkGyba%2FCrack-3.jpg%3Flgfp%3D3000&hash=d29a0614a8f93416d682a797e91fd1eec99d1de6)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.4shared.com%2Fdownload%2FMpoWexYNce%2FCrack-4.jpg%3Flgfp%3D3000&hash=37e55df35b02106c855f88f31830eafeb082c0ae)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.4shared.com%2Fdownload%2F-TO1RTJrba%2FCrack-5.jpg%3Flgfp%3D3000&hash=ce1284e8027bb2d4740acd6a93c95e687303cac0)
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Congratulations time to sit back and enjoy the music. How are you liking the results of your modification so far?
Looking at all the wiring on the small speedball boards must have tested your patience it would be quiet tricky to get at it all.
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Enjoy, it's definitely the word !
Of the two major modifications, replacing the electrolytic output caps made a improvement on the audio message. More transparency, room on the live recordings, more air and reverberation sensation, micro details emerge like spectator voices. This transparency enhances the voices and instrument message, especially on drums. A veil has clearly been removed making the tube differentiate and letting me appreciate jazz even more.
Difficult to say which components achieve most of the work as I installed them almost at the same time, but considering the low upgrade cost, it's definitely been a good move.
The second major modification is about the plate voltage of my favorite tube so far, a GE 12BH7A wide black plate. Now running at the appropriate voltage, the tube is able to offer an absolutely greatly improved soundstage. Everything seems more focused. I've been surprised on a record by a beat making me think someone was on my left !
I'm now anxiously waiting for my 7119 as it seems to go even beyond the 12BH7A.
So far, my hot combinations are VT231/6SN7GT-6H13C/6AS7G for vocals and jazz, and 12BH7A-7802WB for more dynamic music.
Most of the difficulties putting this together were rather on the 9 pins socket than on the speedball boards.
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I'm using Claritycap TC 300uF's in the power supply. Claritycap says they have an ESR of 1.1 mΩ which seems to be quite low.
I'm wondering now if using a bypass cap of any sort on the last cap will increase the low ESR of the Claritycap TC 300.
Don't want to hinder the speed of the last cap particularly when it was designed for speed.
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Thats not all that great really, a good Panasonic electrolytic of equivalent capacity is down ~500 mOhms. If you bypass it use a poly cap as the ESR is almost unmeasurable for those.
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Good to know. I was having the toughest time finding ESR values for most of the caps I see folks implementing in their Crack and the Claritycap TC was the only chart I could find.
http://www.claritycap.co.uk/products/tc.php
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Ooooh right. Looking at that page the 300uf cap is 1.1 mΩ, not 1.1 Ω as i assumed. vs ~500 mΩ for the Panasonic Lytics so those figures make a lot more sense for a poly cap with very low ESR.
P.S. Solen list ESR specs too https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?pageNum_cms_catalogue=3&catalog=show&s1=2&s2=3&s3=&niveau1=1&niveau2=3&niveau3=26&origniveau=%2Fpub%2Findex.php%3Fcatalog%3D3%26niveau1%3D1%26niveau2%3D3%26s1%3D2%26s2%3D3&totalRows_cms_catalogue=65&niveau1=1&niveau2=3&niveau3=26&niveau4=&totalRows_cms_catalogue=65&niveau1=1&niveau2=3&niveau3=26&niveau4=&totalRows_cms_catalogue=65&niveau1=1&niveau2=3&niveau3=26&niveau4= 300uf cap rated at 1 mΩ
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I'm up for any suggestions for a bypass cap for the third Claritycap TC. Parts Connexion has a few day left on its 20% off sale. :)
And of course I'm wondering should I go 1/10 pr 1/100 for the bypass.
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Personally i wouldn't bother, i treat bypass caps as a band aid for those situations where you cant just fit a big poly cap. I really dont think there is anything to be gained by doing so, it may even be detrimental to parallel another cap with it.
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Claritycap TC 600V. 300uF.
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A Clarity tall boy.
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A poly Oly!
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It's the water!
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I just ordered my 2 Mundorf 100uf 400V Film Caps just waiting for the supplier's reply. :)
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I received the 2 Mundorf 100uf 400V film caps,I would like to know if these film caps are polarize i look at them and they don't have any polarity sign?Thanks!
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I think ERSE’s film cap was mentioned before. I am quite interested in their 250V 100uf but they are out of stock. Will it be ok to go with 91uf or 110uf?
http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PulseX250v/MPX25-03-110-00
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I received the 2 Mundorf 100uf 400V film caps,I would like to know if these film caps are polarize i look at them and they don't have any polarity sign?Thanks!
Doesn't really matter, but generally treat the right hand side as the input side (as your reading the cap). Just make sure to orientate them both the same way.
I think ERSE’s film cap was mentioned before. I am quite interested in their 250V 100uf but they are out of stock. Will it be ok to go with 91uf or 110uf?
Either will work fine, but i would go for the 110uf personally.
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THANK YOU!
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What do bypass caps do for the Crack?
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Depending on who you ask, bypass caps will improve the treble, damage the treble, or have no effect. There is no known way to consistently predict which answer you will get. But if you try it and see, you will know the only answer that you care about!
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Hehe thanks Paul!
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In the first post of this thread, adamct says:
"Below is a 200uf metalized polypropylene motor START cap that I bought by accident. These are NOT suitable for use in the Crack. They will explode if you try to install them. This one is shown here just for fun."
My question is: why?
I believe they will work just fine as output coupling caps. No explosions.
As filter caps, I see no reason why they would "explode." They are rated at 450 VAC and the DC rating for a cap with a 450 VAC rating is usually about 1.4141 times VAC or about 636 in this case, so you are not going to over-volt the thing. As far as current goes, motor run caps are built to continuously carry much higher currents, but a motor start cap ought to be able to carry the ripple current of this power supply, no? Motor run caps have to handle a fairly high peak current and are likely able to carry reasonable currents for extended periods, I should think.
Personally I haven't heard any difference using all film caps in the power supply vs. good low-ESR electrolytics in the audio circuits I have experimented with (which does not include any SET amps.) I HAVE been able to clearly tell the difference in A/B comparisons between electrolytics and film caps when used as output coupling in the Crack / Speedball.
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Motor starts are generally electrolytics and and are only intended to be in a circuit for a short time during startup, motor runs are usually poly and always in the circuit. I dont see why a motor start would fail with miniscule currents in a tube amp, but i also dont see why you would want to use one.
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Many AC rated caps are PIO caps and are bare metal. I have a pair of them in a PDMPS power supply for my FP 2 and in the last 12 years these haven't exploded. They are called Motor Run caps.
I looked back at the first post and those are distinctly different from what I am used to seeing on a motor. Most stay in the circuit. A start cap is taken out of the circuit by a switch on the motor that opens at a set RPM. It is just for the starting torque.
I'll add a picture today.
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Motor starts are generally electrolytics and and are only intended to be in a circuit for a short time during startup, motor runs are usually poly and always in the circuit. I dont see why a motor start would fail with miniscule currents in a tube amp, but i also dont see why you would want to use one.
One of the very first Crack type amps I built, a long time ago (maybe 10 years now) ended up coming together with a bunch of surplus parts I had sitting around. I ended up accidentally using motor start caps in the power supply (by accident), and several of them exploded at about the same time rather immediately after I started using the amp.
Motor start caps aren't intended for continuous duty. They are very cheaply made as well, so they are likely to not sound that great. If you use them, they will fail, and they will explode their oily goop all over your Crack and whatever is under it. It's also quite likely that they will damage whatever headphones you have plugged into them at the time, and if they do survive, they will smell like exploded capacitor for a few years.
Motor run caps are great though.
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Here are a few of my stash. As you can see 3 of the 5 have been in amps already. These are motor run caps and they are not small.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FBottlehead%2520Equipment%2FDSC03224_zpsewq1egxj.jpg&hash=7e03c3f5515f8e7e5355bc60ad61d387cd7e8307)