Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Legacy Kit Products => Paramount => Topic started by: BNAL on April 16, 2014, 11:55:46 AM
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Currently I’m running Shuguang 2A3Cs, but have been thinking about getting new tubes for my Paramounts. I have been sifting through the forum on what people think about the different offerings out there and have narrowed it down to a couple of options, but wanted to get some input before I pull the trigger.
Based on what I have read the JJ 2A3-40s and Full Music 2A3 mesh plate globe are at the top at my list. I would consider the EML 2A3-S, but I just don’t think that I want to invest that much into tubes at this time.
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My Bottlehead Customs 2A3 amp used National Union tubes initially, but I rolled the JJ 2A3-40 tube into the amp and the differences were not subtle. Search for my posts (Hank Murrow) in the Gallery section of the Forum to see pics and detailed listening notes. I have had these tubes in the system for a couple of years and love them. Eurotubes in Portland, OR was the supplier, and they offer the best warranty.
Cheers, Hank
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Hank,
Thanks. I'm about to pull the trigger on them. From what I have read they are a good deal for the performance.
Brad
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I have the JJs on my Paramounts for the past several years. They are great! I had Valve Art, Sovtek and Electro-Harmonix Gold in the past. The JJs are in different league in comparison to them. I would buy them again.
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Thanks for the responses. I pulled the trigger and the JJs are on their way.
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Just so we all understand... The 2a3-40 is wired as a 2a3 but you keep the heaters wired as you would for the 300b?
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The 2A3-40 is a 2A3 - wire the heaters for 2.5 volts. Since it can take a lot more power than a NOS 2A3, you can wire the rest of the circuit either direct-coupled 2A3 or cap-coupled 300B.
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got it!
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The 2A3-40 is a 2A3 - wire the heaters for 2.5 volts. Since it can take a lot more power than a NOS 2A3, you can wire the rest of the circuit either direct-coupled 2A3 or cap-coupled 300B.
Digging up an old thread here, but in order to accomplish this. Which steps should omitted from the 300b to 2a3 conversion guide that has been published?
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Digging up an old thread here, but in order to accomplish this. Which steps should omitted from the 300b to 2a3 conversion guide that has been published?
Go back to the Paramount manual and look at the wiring of the FC-1 and how it connects to the power supply PC board. Those are the changes that you should make to convert the heater to 2.5V.
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Ok. I just got done rewiring the FC-1 and chaged the black wire from the 5v to 2.5v solder pad on each amplifier.
Is there anything else i need to address, other than adjusting the hum pots for the new JJ 2A3-40 tubes?
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Marantzfan,
Check these pages in the manual:
pg23 filament supply board
31 filament choke
46 cathode resisters
49 output stage grid
Regards,
Jcris
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Marantzfan,
Check these pages in the manual:
pg23 filament supply board
31 filament choke
46 cathode resisters
49 output stage grid
Regards,
Jcris
Thank you for digging that up for me, but that isn't exactly what I was asking.
I was going by this guide, which is basically the same information just simplified and all in one place:
http://bottlehead.com/paramount-300b-to-paramount-2a3-conversion/
I know that following ALL of the steps will convert the amplifiers to 2A3, my question is in regards to optimizing the Paramounts for the JJ 2A3-40 as described above (changing the filaments voltage to 2.5v and leaving the rest as cap coupled 300b).
From what I have gathered, it seems like following steps 1 and 2 from the guide I linked, will accomplish what PJ and PB have described above. Is that correct, or is there anything else that needs to be done that I am missing?
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Yes, in theory all you need to do is change the filament supply since a 2A3-40 is pretty much a 300B with a 2.5V filament.
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Thank you Dan.
I just wanted to confirm, as after doing that I popped in the JJ's and while trying to adjust the hum pots, I noticed that one amplifier was fluctuations from 0 to 12 mv, constantly without moving the pot.
I decided to give them a listen at low volume and noticed an intermittent crackling sound from the side that was givin me the odd readings, but I could certainly hear music over it.
I powered everything down, swapped the tubes and noticed that the crackling sound (and readings) followed the tube.
So what does this sound like? Bad output tube? Nothing else has changed.
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Yup, if it follows the tube it's probably an issue with the tube itself. You could try just letting it cook in the amp for a while to see if it might go away.
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I'll do that. I'll give it s week and if it doesn't go away, I'll call Eurotubes about getting a replacement. Thanks again Dan.
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Well, that didn't take long. After being on for about ten minutes today, the crackling suddenly changed to a howling and began getting louder so I shut the amp down and called Eurotubes.
Great folks! They are going to send me out a replacement tube today.
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Anthony. I bought JJ's about 1 month after buying your Stereomour. Thinking they were fantastic, loaded with detail, a bit more omph. My opinion has changed after installing RCA's. The JJ's seem glassy in comparison, especially running speakers as sensitive as Cornwalls
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I powered everything down, swapped the tubes and noticed that the crackling sound (and readings) followed the tube.
So what does this sound like? Bad output tube? Nothing else has changed.
This is likely to be the case. If the DC voltages are very stable, you can give the tube some run time to see if it clears up. If these are new JJ 2A3-40's, you might see if you can swap it out from your dealer. If these are not new 2A3-40's, you can always try resoldering the base pins (there's a little hole in the tip of each pin which will accept additional solder if you get the pin super hot).
-PB