Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: i luvmusic 2 on June 21, 2014, 01:04:46 AM
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Hi,
This is my first post in here,I just ordered the Crack and SB so while i'am waiting maybe i should start ordering some important upgrade materials If you guys can let me know what are the parts i need and i would like to know what is the size of those hook up wires used in CRACK?If possible to send a Link please do.THANK YOU!
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I use 22 gauge wire for assembly and upgrades. 20 gauge is fine. Larger is not necessary.
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I use 22 gauge wire for assembly and upgrades. 20 gauge is fine. Larger is not necessary.
THANK YOU!
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If I were you, i would start looking at 100uF film capacitors, and possibly 100K potentiometers. The capacitor upgrade is the most logical upgrade you can make, the performance is most noticeably affected. Beware, 100uF film caps are huge! (don't look at ones rated below 250v). Look at pics in other threads, if you haven't already.
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If I were you, i would start looking at 100uF film capacitors, and possibly 100K potentiometers. The capacitor upgrade is the most logical upgrade you can make, the performance is most noticeably affected. Beware, 100uF film caps are huge! (don't look at ones rated below 250v). Look at pics in other threads, if you haven't already.
Hi, If i will upgrade the CAPS since i don't receive my Crack/SB i don't know how many caps would i need and what are the values of all the upgrade CAPS? Caps size is not a big deal for me i can make a case actually i already have a aluminum plate cut for the amp all i have to do now is wait and when it arrived i can decide if i need to make a new case or just use the stock case.Thank You!
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Personally I would think about upgrading the volume pot as the first mod this will allow you to better appreciate the benefits that any further modifying can bring.
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I'am still shopping around for Attenuator/Pot so many choices out there with deferent price range from $20+ to $50+ for the one it Appear to me it's the same construction and materials but they vary in prices so i need to be careful before i get ripoff specially they are coming from overseas.The ALPS Blue Velvet is the one that i'am considering it's $20 from Parts Conn....n.Is this considered step up from the stock Volume pot or have you guys used this with crack before?THANK YOU!
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I recommend either of these two. Unfortunately the 2nd one with the Dale resistors has almost doubled in price recently.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-100K-Log-Stereo/301205557968?hash=item46214012d0 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-100K-Log-Stereo/301205557968?hash=item46214012d0)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-Dale-23-Step-Attenuator-Volume-Control-100k-/270311271326?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item3eefceab9e (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-Dale-23-Step-Attenuator-Volume-Control-100k-/270311271326?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item3eefceab9e)
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I have the Valab fitted to my Crack and its probably one of the best bang for the buck upgrades I have done to my Crack. The E80cc resistor mod is another inexpensive gem.
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Installing nice wire from the get go is a good idea IMHO.
Installing other upgrades at this point is not.
I think that building a kit stock and living with it that way for a while is the best way to get a handle on what you like and dislike about an amp. It gives you a baseline to decide how you'd like to proceed with your mods (is it too warm or too bright?).
Also, there's the practical matter of troubleshooting a modified kit. If you run into an issue after the kit is done, it complicates matters. On top of that, those big film caps are almost impossible to work around. Many times, problems with these kits are bad solder joints, or components in the wrong place/orientation. Both of those issues are pretty easy to see and fix in stock form but almost impossible to access with film caps in place (unless your really lucky).
So maybe you're an old hand at electronics and have been troubleshooting space shuttles for ever, but if you're like me, build stock and enjoy the tunes for a while.
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I recommend either of these two. Unfortunately the 2nd one with the Dale resistors has almost doubled in price recently.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-100K-Log-Stereo/301205557968?hash=item46214012d0 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valab-23-Step-Ladder-Type-Attenuator-Potentiometer-100K-Log-Stereo/301205557968?hash=item46214012d0)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-Dale-23-Step-Attenuator-Volume-Control-100k-/270311271326?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item3eefceab9e (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Assembled-Dale-23-Step-Attenuator-Volume-Control-100k-/270311271326?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item3eefceab9e)
Thank You for the Links!
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I have the Valab fitted to my Crack and its probably one of the best bang for the buck upgrades I have done to my Crack. The E80cc resistor mod is another inexpensive gem.
Thank You!It's good to know that someone actually used the Part.
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Installing nice wire from the get go is a good idea IMHO.
Installing other upgrades at this point is not.
I think that building a kit stock and living with it that way for a while is the best way to get a handle on what you like and dislike about an amp. It gives you a baseline to decide how you'd like to proceed with your mods (is it too warm or too bright?).
Also, there's the practical matter of troubleshooting a modified kit. If you run into an issue after the kit is done, it complicates matters. On top of that, those big film caps are almost impossible to work around. Many times, problems with these kits are bad solder joints, or components in the wrong place/orientation. Both of those issues are pretty easy to see and fix in stock form but almost impossible to access with film caps in place (unless your really lucky).
So maybe you're an old hand at electronics and have been troubleshooting space shuttles for ever, but if you're like me, build stock and enjoy the tunes for a while.
I asked for the wire because i do have some leftover(20awg solid teflon silver plated )i'm not sure what size is the stock wires.I Agree with you regarding start from the stock.The Crack will stay stock for a little while before it will received some upgrades then i will decide if i need to make another chassis to fit those Big upgrade Parts.I already have the aluminum plate cut waiting for the Amp (Free10" X 12" X 1/8" and 4" X 12" x 1/8" Aluminum Plates)Thanks for your input!
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That should be fine. Go ahead and use it wherever you want. It will fit through the PCB holes with no problem.
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That should be fine. Go ahead and use it wherever you want. It will fit through the PCB holes with no problem.
I sure will Thank You!
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Step one ordered the Dale 100k dual Attenuator.
Step two wait.
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Hello,
I have just completed my Crack with Speedball. I ignored the good advice I read somewhere about completing the standard Crack first and did both in one go. Now I have problems with the resistance tests.
I will post my readings in another post (cry for help) shortly, but this post caught my attention.
I used the left-over red and black wire from my Crack kit for the Speedball because the Speedball wire was too fine for my wire stripper and I kept snapping it. That shouldn't pose a problem should it?
Dan
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Using the Crack kit wire with Speedball is fine.
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Hello,
I have just completed my Crack with Speedball. I ignored the good advice I read somewhere about completing the standard Crack first and did both in one go. Now I have problems with the resistance tests.
When you remove resistors from the Crack to put the Speedball in, the active loads do not measure as the resistors would.
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When you remove resistors from the Crack to put the Speedball in, the active loads do not measure as the resistors would.
Thanks Paul. I think I will remove the Speedball and go back to the base Crack. But out of interest, do you have any idea what sort of resistance tests/values I should do with the Speedball in? One thing that concerns me is that I was getting a value from 22, which doesn't have anything connected to it. I can't remember what it was now.
Also, wouldn't the earth lug near the power input (just above 16) be a good ground point? It's easier to attach to than 12.
Dan
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The earth lug is a decent ground point, just be sure that the resistance between it and terminal 3 is very low.
With the Speedball in, you need to measure the resistance of every terminal where the unstriped lead of a 220uF 250V cap lands. They should all be something high. Then you should measure the path of the black wires that connect all the striped sides of the 220uF 250V caps. You should be able to read about 0 Ohms from terminal 3 all the way back to where the unbanded ends of the UF4007's meet the first 220uF/250V cap.
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Thanks very much Paul.
I will try this before disassembling the speedball and see if I can learn anything.