Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Legacy Kit Products => Smash => Topic started by: mobelos on December 03, 2014, 04:55:21 PM
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I competed the first set of checks and was onto the voltage checks and started getting odd - numbers on the voltmeter. LED's were on for like ten minutes. I had a amp around close so I hooked it up which was probably a bad idea and got nothing but hum no audio. Any thoughts. I am off to bed and made sure my connections were good but can't tell for now I will sleep and recheck in the morning. Bummed I had beautiful tube glow on the outer tubes then all of a sudden nothing no glow no led's anymore. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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What odd numbers did you get on the voltmeter?
Please post any voltages that aren't correct, then we can make more helpful suggestions. You are correct that it's not a great idea to hook it up until those voltages are correct.
-PB
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I got -280mV when it was set to auto when I was checking the VDC on 1 and 2 and on 4 where is should have been 150 It was slowly going up but never got to 150
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Are you able to measure a battery with your meter? (Try a 9V battery if you have one)
This will settle whether or not you may have meter issues.
How were the resistance checks?
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Last night all resistance checks were good. Had a long day yesterday so I think sleep was best. Just rechecked and am having some issues on 25-30 to I will resolder and check the wiring and get back to you. I checked the multimeter and got accurate results from a 9v so I will hopefully fix resistance errors and then the leds will come back. I will let you know either way Im sure. Thank you so much for the quick responses.
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You can also post a photo or two of the underside of the chassis, which may allow us to spot any issues more easily.
-PB
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So rechecked the resistance and now 25 is fine, 26 to out of range then reads between.1-.4 ohms, 27 jumps to out of range then to 7.2mohms, 28 jumps to out of range then to .1-.3 ohms, 29 jumps to out of range then reads 4.3 mohms and counts down slowly. Posted some images too.
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What DC voltage do you have at 35? How about 29? How about B7?
How about the DC voltage between A1 and A7 (one probe on each terminal)?
-PB
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29 sometimes is out of bounds then 4-3 m ohms and counts down, 35 is out of bounds then 5-6 m ohms, b7 goes out of bounds then usually drop to 4-5 m ohms then starts counting down then ends up around 40 k ohms it jumps a lot. negitve on 7 positive on 1 = 9mv approximately.
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These look like resistance ratings, since you have turned on the amp and not blown the fuse (presumably), you can take some voltage readings to see if the power supplies are functioning.
-PB
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Sorry should have read it better.
35- 225-230 mv very jumpy
29- 250-levels off around 270mv jumpy as well
b7- 110-280 mv very jumpy between these numbers tends to stay in 240-280 range
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Here goes full set of values for all the voltages my ground wire on my multimeter aligator clip was loose. Thank you so much for the help. This has been fun. This is my first Bottlehead kit and am having a blast leaning a lot with only past kit experience being pcb board stuff. Just went ahead a did all the values as the fuse hadn't blown after 5 minutes so I was close to done anyway. Getting late here in Vermont will probably give in for the night. Hope all is well.
1 - 0
2 - 0
3 - 040.0mv to -060.0mv
4 - 152.4
6 - .1mv
7 - 0
9 - 154.8
10 - -050.0mv to 0.907mv
11 - 0
12 - 0
13 - .1mv
15 - 155v
16 - 155.1v
17 - 209.7v
18 - .1mv
19 - 0
20 - 155v
21 - 155.1v
22 - 155v
24 - 0
25 - 0
28 - 0
29 - 208.9v
30 - 0
31 - 0
34 - 0
35 - 223.4v
36 - .1mv
A2, C2 - 155v
A3, C3 - 155v
A4, C4 - 6.25v
A5, C5 - 0
A6, C6 - 0
A8, C8 - 6.26v
B2 - 0
B3 - 209.8
B5 - 155v
B7 - 209.8
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Also got all the resistance levels set to what they should 26 and 27 both go out of bounds now after a re-solder of the capacitor. They sometimes flick back to really high m ohm but then go out of bounds again. I feel like I am getting close. Just don't understand enough about the circuit to know why A2 A3 A4 and A8 are getting too much VDC. At least Im learning how to do the checks and follow there lead to a solution. I ordered the smash upgrade and am excited. Thanks again for the help.
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OK, the high voltage portion of the amplifier is working. (The 0D3 is no doubt lighting)
I'm very interested in the DC voltage between pins A1 and A7. You can clip your black lead to A1, then probe A7 with the red lead.
-PB
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Its reading 0
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How about the DC voltage between 26 and 27?
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Im getting -08.36V black lead on 27, red lead to test 26
And yes the 0D3 glows beautifully.
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OK, you have the voltage available for the little green PC board to make your filament voltage, which is good, but that voltage isn't getting to the tubes.
Now, very carefully measure the DC voltage between the black and red wires that leave the green PC board and head up to the tube sockets. My guess is that you have 0V on those wires.
If that's the case, then I would inspect the construction of that PC board, looking for funky joints or missing joints. Also, double check the mounting instructions for the L200 regulator. If the hardware isn't installed perfectly, you'll short the transistor case to the amplifier chassis.
-PB
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Success! ;D
Thank You so much. I shrink wrapped the drain wire on that connection and it looked identical to the other black wire and I reversed them. I cannot thank you enough. This process was so much fun and helped me learn a good deal. Can't wait for the smash up! upgrade. But now onto some listening this evening. Its a little noisy hooked up to a t-amp but I am going to set it up with my Magnavox EL84 here in a bit and some Tekton full range bookshelf speakers which is why I purchased it. Im grinning from ear to ear just thinking about it. Thanks!
Joey