Painting

[butchbass]

When painting the metal transformer cover or the chokes is it necessary to  prime the metal first? I usually prime metal before I paint it but thought I would see what other Bottleheads do.

[Paul Birkeland]

It's really important to clean the metal as best as you can.  For the power transformer covers, I spray them off with brake cleaner and wipe them off with a clean cloth.  For better adhesion, I will also scuff them up with rough sand paper.

For the chokes, just use some 220 grid sand paper on the silver colored steel parts of the transformer to scuff up the finish, then they will be ready for paint. 

You never want to sand on the dark colored transformer laminations or the windings/bobbins themselves.

-PB

[butchbass]

Thanks for the advice. So no primer?

[Paul Birkeland]

A lot of the spray paints that you'd find for the job are intended to go directly over bare steel.  As always, if the directions indicate benefits from using a primer, I'd use a primer!

[butchbass]

Very good. Thanks

[JeffYoung]

Acetone and MEK will also work for degreasing.


I prefer a metal etchant (phosphoric acid) to sandpaper because it gets into all the concave corners, but if I didn't have any I don't think I'd be bothered to buy some just for this job.  Sandpaper (or ScotchBrite pads) will certainly do.


Cheers,
Jeff.

[Natural Sound]

I use Dawn dishwashing detergent, Scotch-bright pads and a little elbow grease.

[Doc B.]

Acetone has worked very consistently for me for the past 20 years to degrease the metal. Another tip is to bake the bell end for a while to bring any oil in the pores of the metal to the surface before wiping it down. I mostly use paints that don't require primer, like the hammer finish acrylic lacquers. On the steel bell ends you might want to use etching primer before laying down any paint that does require a primer.

[butchbass]

Tons of good advice. Thanks.
I had acetone so I used it and 180 grit sandpaper to clean and roughen up the end bell and chokes. I used Rustoleum Universal oil rubbed bronze hammertone  paint that has the primer in it. It looks good and I am just waiting for the paint to dry. I am leaving the top plate natural. I just sprayed some poly on it after cleaning with acetone. 
I chamfered the top of my base at 45 degrees and then put a 3/8" band of wenge around the middle. It is kind of simply elegant looking. I am leaving the alder natural. I put a coat of sealer on it and will spray it with high gloss poly and if it seems to shiny I will put a coat of satin poly on it.  When it is done I will post some pictures. It is humid here in Virginia so it is taking longer for coatings to dry. Once the paint/poly is dry enough to handle I will bring the components into the house where it is less humid and let them sit a few days.
BTW I am building a Stereomour II. I already have the FP III and Paramours so I can be patient with my new build and still enjoy the music.