After installing Speedball, only one half of the tube heats up [resolved]

FruityPlasmid · 3527

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Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #30 on: April 20, 2018, 11:25:27 AM
Also, the temperature should be cranked as high as that iron will go.  A 3-5 second heating on all the solder joints except the LEDs should get the solder to flow through those board holes.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #31 on: April 20, 2018, 11:27:23 AM
Yes, I do, its ok to ask. I'll be honest, I'm really REALLY bad at this, with the Crack being my first project ever.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #32 on: April 20, 2018, 11:30:38 AM
Try a 3-5 second count while you're heating up those joints. You'll see the solder appear to sink a little bit when it wicks into the board through holes.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #33 on: April 20, 2018, 12:36:48 PM
I did what you said but i got nothing, maybe i broke the LEDs, I have already broken around 3 of them previously



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #34 on: April 20, 2018, 12:38:18 PM
LEDs can be tested by some meters by using the diode setting. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #35 on: April 20, 2018, 12:50:22 PM
I wish i found that out earlier, 2 of the 4 LEDs don't work



Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #36 on: April 26, 2018, 05:47:47 PM
After replacing the LEDs, i also moved 2N2222A from the A side of the board a little higher, and now the voltages seem to normalize a bit

OA - 110
OB - 198.1
B+ - 181.1
G - 0

i think the issue is that in the manual i doesn't give an example of how high off the transistor should be off of the PCB, so i left it pretty close, but now that i learn how to desolder the leads, i hop tomorrow afternoon i can be done, will update. :)



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #37 on: April 27, 2018, 03:48:36 AM
It might also help to see how the soldering on the bottom of your board looks.

Having a high voltage at OB means very little current is passing through that half of the big Speedball board, which still points to solder joints or a broken wire (or potentially a flaky solder joint at B2/B5).

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #38 on: April 28, 2018, 01:05:46 PM
I made some progress, all the LEDs light up now but OB still has 181V and the LEDs, D1 and D2 on B side, light up almost exactly when i turn the crack on. This was the problem previously but i don't know how i fixed it
« Last Edit: April 28, 2018, 02:13:14 PM by FruityPlasmid »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #39 on: April 29, 2018, 04:07:44 AM
It still looks like there are some soldering issues that are preventing this board from working.  It might be worth considering a flat rate repair to get this project up and running. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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I DID IT. What i did exactly was applied more heat to the TIP-50 Transistor to the point where you can see the solder on the top side of the board. Can't wait to have a more extensive listen tomorrow morning