S.E.X. 3.0 C4S - No Sound Left Channel After Spark Show [resolved]

TurbOSquiD77 · 1665

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline TurbOSquiD77

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 103
Hello, it's been a while!

6DN7 Conversion - success
C4S Installation - success

Sounds great! Functioned as it should for quite some time. Then sparks and smoke came from underneath the chassis plate. The resistor from terminal 35 looks like it was touching, or very close to, terminal 12 of the PT-10. I'm unsure if this is what caused the issue, but the lead looked pretty long, so I snipped it.

Here are the symptoms after snipping the lead:
Left Channel has no sound.
Swapping left and right RCA's from the DAC source results in the same issue with the left channel.
Swapping tubes results in the same issue with the left channel.
 
Here are the measurements after snipping the lead:
Terminal Voltage (DC)
2      64.9V
3      17.18V
4      9.6mv
5      0mv
6      369V
7      394V
10      372V
11      17.27V
12      .1mV
13      394V
16      -1.064V
17      1.6mV
18      -.559V
19      0mv
20      -.255V
21      -.240V
24      -.3V
25      1.5mV
26      0mV
27      -.336V

H2/H5      3.06V/3.06V
H4/H7      -2.9V/-2.9V

OA  65.5
IA    364V
IB    .75V
OB  -1.1V

Thank you,

-T

« Last Edit: November 11, 2018, 11:33:35 AM by Paul Birkeland »



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19745
You have no high voltage at IB.

What voltages do you get at 21 and 20?


Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline TurbOSquiD77

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 103
You have no high voltage at IB.

What voltages do you get at 21 and 20?

Hey PB how's it going?

I read approximately .44V at terminals 21/20.

I apologize, those measurements I originally posted must be from before the incident. I could have sworn I took them after.



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19745
The 680 ohm resistor feeding those terminals is likely open or not properly soldered.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline TurbOSquiD77

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 103
Thanks, Paul.

I've updated the measurements in my original post. Will try resoldering first, and see what happens.



Offline TurbOSquiD77

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 103
Clean/resolder/clean = similar voltages.

Noticed that the upper 680 ohm resistor blue stripe is, well, not blue anymore. The leads are also looking a bit fried. ;D Will replace.

Based on the measurements, what is the likelihood other parts were damaged by the incident?



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19745
You can turn the SEX off and wait till the high DC voltage is bled off, then measure the resistance of the 680 ohm resistor.  You must have normal DC voltage on the voltage doubler side, and we know you have no voltage on the other.  This can only happen if the resistor is open (what I think is going on) or if there is a short after the resistor (then it will burn itself up until it's open).

Your meter will confirm the condition of the resistor.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline TurbOSquiD77

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 103
Finally got around to fixing this. A new 680-ohm resistor did the trick. Thank you!