Crack - LED Not Light [resolved]

benzxc · 1495

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Offline benzxc

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on: August 08, 2019, 09:37:51 AM
Hi all,

I just finished my first crack build and the resistance check went all fine.  The voltage (DC) check went like this:

Terminal
1: 81
2: 161
3: 0
4: 161
5: 142
6: 0
7: 99
8: 0
9: 141
10 :0

The issue I have is that the LED closest to the front of the chassis does not light.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ben
« Last Edit: August 08, 2019, 11:02:13 AM by Paul Birkeland »

Ben Chiou


Offline benzxc

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Reply #1 on: August 08, 2019, 09:44:24 AM
I also electrocuted myself... not really sure what I did or touched but there was a shock coming near the IEC/terminal 12U.  I just rechecked the resistance (all good) and voltage (same as posted above).  Is there anything I need to take care of also?  Did I blow a fuse?

Thanks,
Ben

Ben Chiou


Offline oguinn

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Reply #2 on: August 08, 2019, 09:47:56 AM
If you're getting voltage in the circuit you didn't blow a fuse. You'll probably want to post some photos of your build to help people troubleshoot. The problem is, as the manual says, almost definitely not the LED.

Jameson O'Guinn

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Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline benzxc

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Reply #3 on: August 08, 2019, 09:55:39 AM
Thanks Jameson.  Here are a couple of photos of my build.

Ben Chiou


Offline oguinn

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Reply #4 on: August 08, 2019, 10:15:52 AM
You definitely want to trim those excess leads much closer to the terminals.

Jameson O'Guinn

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Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: August 08, 2019, 10:20:55 AM
The LED is unlikely to be the issue.

All those leads sticking out must be trimmed, then take another set of measurements. 

The high voltage at terminal 5 and the LED not illuminating suggest that perhaps the solder joint at A4/A5 is not well formed.  If this is the case, only one half of the 12AU7 will glow.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline benzxc

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Reply #6 on: August 08, 2019, 11:01:41 AM
Thanks Jameson and Paul,

I trimmed the excesses and resoldered A4 and A5.  The voltages are all accurate and both LED works now.  Can't wait to start listening!

Thanks again,
Ben

Ben Chiou


Offline oguinn

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Reply #7 on: August 08, 2019, 11:07:10 AM
No worries. In general I try to play a game of "how much can I make my builds look like the manual?". I'm normally still miles off, but I've improved as I've built more. It really helps to keep problems to the minimum, and to reduce re-work.

Jameson O'Guinn

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Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline benzxc

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Reply #8 on: August 08, 2019, 11:28:36 AM
Jameson,

Thanks for the advice which I will definitely keep in mind when I do the speedball upgrade in a few weeks from now.  I think I rushed a bit on some parts now that I am thinking back.  I think this was a fun first build for me but definitely a lot of things I would do differently.  Hopefully the second time around will be easier!

Ben

Ben Chiou