Solder Iron tip

[andyh]

Which solder iron tip would you recommend for a novice like me for a Crack build?? Pointed, chisel, size etc?

[Chris H]

Hi Andy,

I built my first kit (Crack) earlier this year so know exactly where you're coming from.
Watched quite a few YouTube videos before starting and I think a lot must be down to what people are used to or find suits them best.

My advice can only be based on what I did and which worked for me.  I bought an iron with a selection of tips and did a few practice connections where it doesn't matter.
You soon get a good feel for how quickly the solder melts and for it to flow.  And flow is not just an expression, the solder really does flow.
The join needs to be well heated so a good iron contact required which may be easier with a larger surface area (larger tip) when starting out.
However, I was concerned about having to leave the iron in place too long for fear of damaging components. I still don't know enough to be sure of how hot some components can get.
I started with a medium sized pointed tip but have now ended up using the smallest pointed tip I have for most things.  At same time, temperature I set on the iron has increased.
Having some solder already on the iron helps, now takes a few seconds (3-5) to get a good connection.
Practice and find what works for you, though I did find things easier with a smaller tip.

Hope this helps - I am sure there may be other more experience builders that can give tips (pun intended) if you need.

Regards
Chris

[Deluk]

I have an old basic Weller station with no temp adjustment I use #7 tips which means 700º. I have a couple of chunky #8/800º ones for multiple heavy wires on a bus bar. Favourite #7's are a long 1.6mm flattened end. Rounded but not pointy. Also 2 rounded chisels 1.6mm and 2.4mm. On the Crack I used the 2.4mm for everything. With Cardas solder flow at 700º is quick and easy, good heat transfer with that tip. I will probably use the 1.6mm long when doing the long overdue Speedball 1.0. I would use long and short pointed tips on close packed boards if needed. As I used to work building avionics boards and test equipment I have a collection of tips but the ones mentioned get the most use now I'm retired. As a novice, a bigger tip will give you better heat control which is good unless you are clumsy. Practice makes perfect so try a range of sizes on similar joints to see what suits you. Keep the tip clean and well tinned. Distilled water on your sponge reduces the black burnt deposits on the tip. That will give you a good start to any joint. Patience and timing is needed. Always watch the solder flow into the joint for a second or so before removing the tip. Don't give it a poke hoping to improve the joint. Let it cool a bit and then reheat if needed.

[Chris H]

I realize I should have described the shape and size better (medium? small? relative to what?).
I would describe the one I used most as rounded rather than pointy too, even the smallest one.
Not much more pointy than a ball point pen.
I found I can use the tip for fine stuff and along the point (length ways) if more contact required so worked for me in most situations so far.


I did not know that about distilled water.

[ALL212]

I’m just seeing what other opinions might be on the tip cleaning.

I’ve been using the brass dry cleaner.  Looks like gold steel wool.

I prefer that over the sponge.

Anyone else prefer the dry over wet?

[mcandmar]

Chisel tip for me, think its 1.6mm.  Has had a ton of use over the years and its still like new.  A few tips to keep them in mint condition.

-Use a wet sponge with distilled water (buy 5 litres of battery top up water at a car parts store, will last you a life time)
-Always cover the tip in solder before switching the iron off, keeps the air away from it.

[andyh]

Thank you all for the advice.

[2wo]

1.6m chisel tip for me, I turn it 90 for fine PC work...John