Options for preparing/painting transformer bell and choke frames

denti alligator · 1137

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Offline denti alligator

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My assembled Stereomour looks nice but the metal frames and transformer bell are starting to look shabby. I put some poly on them when I assembled but they clearly need something more or something else. Any advice on what to do, what products to use, and how to go about accomplishing the task without disassembly? Thanks!

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Without disassembly, you'll need to use a lot of tape to mask off the chassis plate. 

I use black lacquer (not acrylic, not poly just lacquer).

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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Thanks. Do I need to prep in any way, or just spray on? Does lacquer come in colors?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Birkeland

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I would wipe down what's there with alcohol.  Where I live lacquer is available in clear, black, and white.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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I think it turned out nicely. Thanks!


- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable