Attaching HLMP LEDs

[MilderER]

Hi there. When attaching the LEDs to the 9-pin socket, do you double or triple wrap the leads around the socket pins and then give them a firm crimp? The leads seem so long and so fragile that I'm uncertain how to handle them and am worried they'll either snap off or poke out and wind up causing problems.

-Jonathan

[Thermioniclife]

Your going to want to just push thru the holes and give it one wrap. Leave the extra length as the tube socket pins move when inserting and removing. You are correct in thinking they are fragile.

[MilderER]

Thanks so much. I took your advice and, after a lot of clumsy pawing around, I think I've managed to get the LEDs in place. I just hope I managed it without doing too much damage to the leads--I kept readjusting them to allow some flex and to look more like the manual. Next time around, I'll have to go at this with some serious, purpose-built tweezers.

[Thermioniclife]

No worries, the main thing to consider ihat the extra lead lead length is a strain relief to compensate for the fact that those tube socket connectors will move. Best of luck and do not stress.

[Drew1d]

the only reason to wrap components is to make a good mechanical connection.  Kinda like the helping hands can't reach.  It's not a bad thing.  But it's hard to un-solder if you replace the part.  Not a concern for me.  Good luck!!! 

[MilderER]

Thanks, Drew and Lee. Your advice is hugely helpful. I'll go a little easier on the crimping from here on out and won't worry about the LEDs so much.

-Jonathan

[kgoss]

For reliability you want a good crimp on components.  Solder is not glue or a weld between metals.  The crimp ensures the wire does not move while soldering or when moving wires around in the future.  The solder covers the wire and terminal to ensure a good electrical connection and to prevent oxidation of the joint.  The LED leads can be crimped, just be sure to leave enough slack in the leads to allow for pin movement when inserting or removing tubes.  They are delicate.

The exception to this rule is for any component you plan to replace/upgrade in the future.  A looser crimp can make desoldering and removal easier, but I still don't like sticking a wire straight through a terminal and using solder to "glue" it in place.

[MilderER]

Thanks so much, Ken. I have to admit I've found it difficult to crimp wires to the lower terminals (some of the pins too) in a way that completely prevents them from moving during soldering. Without a way to wrap the lead, and with the other end of the wire unattached, I find there's no amount of crimping that will fully stabilize the lead. Any tips would be most welcome!

-Jonathan

[kgoss]

Yes the lower holes on the terminal strips are harder.  What I do is make a 90 degree bend in the wire and pull/position it so it is in as much contact with the eyelet as possible, then solder.  If anyone has a better solution I'd like to hear it.  There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum.

[MilderER]

Glad to hear I'm not alone in finding the lower terminals a challenge. I'll definitely give your technique a try; thanks so much for sharing.
(Yes, this forum really is remarkable. Time and again, I've been amazed not just at the wealth of knowledge here but at the generosity of this community.)

[Natural Sound]

I'm a bit surprised that the following sticky thread has not been mentioned before.
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=8977.0

[MilderER]

Thanks, Natural Sound! That sticky thread was a huge help.