Output capacitor installation

Laudanum · 2024

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Laudanum

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 916
on: September 16, 2011, 02:38:01 AM
Im finishing up my Seduction build and my question is related to it but I think it's better asked here.

Im going to use Obbligato 1.0uF caps on the Seduction outputs in place of the included .47uF Orange Drops.  The Obbligatos are close to the same physical size but they are heavier (I think they have a shrink wrapped, metal case).
Because they arent too large, I'm sure that I can install them just like the pictures in the manual, one leg soldered directly to the terminal strip tab and the other directly to the solder "cup" of the output RCA jacks.
So, the caps would be supported by the connection/soldering of their two leads.  However, I have seen a couple Seduction build photos now where upgrade output caps (Obbligatos in one case, I think) that, size wise, would fit fine if mounted as per the manual pictures were instead attached (with blue-tack or a tie-strap mount etc.) to the underside of the chassis and then the leads bent accordingly to reach the terminal strip and the RCA jack. 

So my question is ... is there any advantage/disadvantage to just soldering the caps to the terminal strip and RCA jack as in the manual photos and letting them "hang" as opposed to securing/supporting them to the underside of the chassis?   Conversely, is there any advantage/disadvantage to securing them to the chassis?  The only thing that I can think of is that securing them to the chassis, the leads would have to be left a bit longer, but other than that, does anyone see any advantage or disadvantage either way?

Thanks

Desmond G.


Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #1 on: September 16, 2011, 03:07:38 AM
Desmond,

If you attach the caps there is no strain on the solder joints.  I have some honking 2.2uF Film/Oil Obbligato caps on my Seduction attached with the yellow version of blue tack.  

The length of the leads is not a problem, just be certain they are not routed near AC.  That should be all at the back of the chassis.

I get Yellow blue tak at Wal-Mart in the office supplies.  I think colors vary with location and date.  I have, in just the last week, started seeing blue here.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2011, 04:55:45 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline Laudanum

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 916
Reply #2 on: September 16, 2011, 03:37:21 AM
Ok then,  I'll secure them to the chassis.  I dont have any of the yellow blue-tac, Im not even sure ive ever even seen the yellow version.  But we always have the blu on hand, my wife uses it for everything.  Anyway, I'll give the blue-tac a try, or maybe I'll just use a button of silicone (RTV). 

Thanks Grainger.   

Desmond G.


Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9587
    • Bottlehead
Reply #3 on: September 16, 2011, 05:39:04 AM
If they have much mass it's best to secure them. Zipties and sticky back hold downs work well, much better than glue or sticky stuff IME. Ziptie hold downs work even better if they are screwed to the chassis, but that means drilling a couple of holes (we do this on our own Crack kits when we add the huge film output caps). Without some kind of fastening gravity will work on the solder joints where the leads are attached to the terminals and slowly stress either the solder or the wire right next to the solder joint until something fails. I've seen a LOT of kits with big caps dangling from one lead.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2011, 08:34:44 AM by Doc B. »

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Laudanum

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 916
Reply #4 on: September 16, 2011, 08:26:45 AM
Thanks Doc.  I used a couple of zip tie hold downs, screwed down, for each 100uf film cap on Crack.  I have a bunch of them.  I'll try them without the screws, they should stick better than blue-tac. 

Desmond G.


Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #5 on: September 16, 2011, 08:46:02 AM
How about hot glueing the Ty-Wrap to the top plate then tighten?

Over time and with heat, as you see in tubed equipment, the "sticky back" lets loose.  At K-C we required them to be screwed to the metal back-planes in switchgear.



Offline STURMJ

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 279
Reply #6 on: September 16, 2011, 07:36:33 PM
Eventually the sticky stuff on the zip-tiedowns will fail, especially if the caps are heavy.  Try a shot of krazy glue (I'm too lazy right now to look up the real name (cyanoacrolate ?)) That will fail too, I assume, but mine secured that way have lasted for months now,instead of weeks.



Offline Laudanum

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 916
Reply #7 on: September 17, 2011, 04:48:45 AM
Thanks gang.  For now I used Zip-tie hold downs secured with their integral double sided tape.  The ones i have are good quailty, you need to literally pry them off when first applied.  But as pointed out, Im sure eventually the tape bond will fail.  I'll keep an eye on it.  By the time the tape does fail, I probably wont mind putting a screw through each of the hold downs so all my obsessing about ways to secure two caps without drilling will probably end up being moot anyway. 
I did try blu-tack in a test run and I dont think that was going to hold long term. 

Desmond G.


Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #8 on: September 17, 2011, 04:55:18 AM
There are lots of glues that will outlast the double stick tape a number of times over.