Speedball upgrades?

jrihs · 2468

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline jrihs

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 183
on: November 14, 2011, 10:46:56 AM
Hi All,
I'm poised to install the speedball. However, I upgraded all the resistors in the Crack and was wondering if I should bother doing the same to the speedball. Does it help much? I'm kinda anxious to get the speedball in during/before the holidays and am too busy to do much investigating/shopping around. This is gonna have to be it. Any recommendations would sure help me get this done in time to relax during the holidays... Mucho thanks!
PS, I used the best that parts connextion had in stock before, kind of a mixed bag of brands, but they were very helpfull.

John Rihs


Offline Jim R.

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 2194
  • Blind Bottlehead
Reply #1 on: November 14, 2011, 11:41:14 AM
The only one that may matter is the 31.6 (though my resistors' color codes are 37.6 ohms and measure closer to 40) are the only ones that make most sense to upgrade.  If you can find a shinko tantalum or a naked vishay for this spot, it might make a difference though my guess is that you'd have to have a pretty amazing source and/or set of cans to tell the difference.

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)


Offline jrihs

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 183
Reply #2 on: November 14, 2011, 02:35:59 PM
Great! I really appreciate the advice. I will give it a shot. Already invested a great deal for the Crack, so why not wait a little while longer...Then the caps will get done, then...gotta love this hobby. Need an excuse to upgrade to the smack though....hmmm

Sources include ipod, Ayre CD player, Michell gyro TT w/shelter 9000 cartridge, Eastern Electric minimax and hd800 cans.

PS, I also have a Yamamoto headphone amp w/ AT-1000 cans...I seem to prefer the crack though!

John Rihs


Offline jrihs

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 183
Reply #3 on: November 14, 2011, 03:07:30 PM
Shinkoh Tantalums in 1/8 watt aint happening unfortunately. not sure if they ever came in this value. Plan B...

John Rihs


Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9585
    • Bottlehead
Reply #4 on: November 14, 2011, 04:53:47 PM
1/8 watt doesn't matter. Honestly I don't think a tantalum would have much effect as the current set resistor on a C4S load, but as plate loads the tantalums work nicely. We use them in the Tube Repro.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline jrihs

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 183
Reply #5 on: November 14, 2011, 05:17:27 PM
Yea! So how is it 1/8 watt don't matter? academically speaking, could I use another value regardless of notable effect? Sorry about the numbskull questions!!

John Rihs


Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #6 on: November 14, 2011, 11:26:36 PM
Power rating on a resistor is like voltage rating on a capacitor.  You can use a higher rating than needed with no ill effect.  It just costs more.



Offline jrihs

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 183
Reply #7 on: November 15, 2011, 03:39:26 AM
Great! Thanks. Man, wish I knew that earlier sooner while building the Crack! Maybe I should go back and upgrade the upgrades?

John Rihs


Offline Jim R.

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 2194
  • Blind Bottlehead
Reply #8 on: November 15, 2011, 04:44:04 AM
Well, I'll tell you, the Crack with the HD-800s I heard at RMAF was all stock parts (except for the experimental high-current modificationn) and it absolutely blew me away.  That's what I mean when I say that I honestly don't think you're going to hear much difference, if any by upgrading the current set resisstor on the C4S board.  Yes, your sources and cans are all right up there but so was the Doc's tape rig and DAC with the HD-800s.

As a result, there is very little other than coupling caps, OCC airlock copper wire, tube sockets, Neutrik pro jack, pot and coupling caps that I plan to change  Hmmm, well, ok, that's a fair bit, but most of those things are for better long term reliability more than anything and I certainly wouldn't hesitate to build a second pretty much stock as well.

I guess I'll see if it was worth it in the end, but it's going to have to be utterly amazing to beat what I heard at the show.

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)