Wood finishing tips

deltaunit · 4160

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Offline deltaunit

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on: December 01, 2011, 11:58:10 AM
Hello all,

It's been a while since I last posted; I see Doc has released a new headphone amp and there is talk of another upgrade to the crack which I look forward to hearing about!

I've recently been thinking about stripping back my Crack's base and making a proper go of it.

I have a walnut stain ready to go and I'd basically like to emulate the finish of my speaker. They have a slight polished coated look about them - not the thick plasticy finish of modern speakers but traditional shiny coating...

It's not a great photo but this is the kind of finish I'd like to achieve - http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/charliemoseley/DSC_0286-1.jpg

Statin, gloss, varnish, lacquer, spray, rub, brush - I don't know where to start. What should I be looking for to get a professional finish - and one that I can do at home.

Thanks.



Offline bainjs

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Reply #1 on: December 01, 2011, 12:31:40 PM
I really like Formby's Tung Oil Finish.  It's a liquid finish you wipe on after staining the piece.  It comes in gloss and satin finish. Satin is my preference.   It takes many coats, but it dries quickly. I usually put on 4-6 coats.  After it drys thoroughly (1-2 days), I steel wool it with 0000 and put on a coat of wood wax.  It always comes out great.


Joel

Joel Bain


Offline Jim R.

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Reply #2 on: December 01, 2011, 01:13:32 PM
The Formby's Joel mentions is very nice, but another alternative for an oil/poly finish isare the products made by General Finishes -- Seal-a-cell (which you would not use over stain, and Arm-r-seal, which comes in both gloss and satin.  If you don't want a gloss finish, do most of the coats with gloss anyway and then the last coat or two of satin which seems to show off the grain more than many coats of satin.  I've used this a lot and with great results -- just follow the instructions on the can for best results and it's mostly goof-proof.  That said, I am slowly transitioning to oil and oil/wax finishes now as they're a lot easyier to do indoors and also give really nice results when you take your time with them.

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)


Offline deltaunit

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Reply #3 on: December 03, 2011, 12:15:05 PM
Update time; As I have some Danish Oil here already I tried giving the stained base a coat of it. Sadly it didn't really work out well, it just looked wet and oily and not the hard and shiny effect I'm after. The oil also has a bit of a deep orange lustre to it and so just didn't look right. I've sanded it right back again and given it another stain this evening.

As I'm in the UK brand names and even I think some terms are different (impossible to find lacquer here for instance), anyway I now have some clear statin varnish and will try that tomorrow.

If all turns out well I'll update the gallery thread.

Thanks all, got me experimenting.




Offline Jim R.

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Reply #4 on: December 03, 2011, 03:44:59 PM
Oh, oil finishes will do that (most of them), and you really need to take your time, start with a somewhat diluted oil (with mineral spirits), slop on a thick coat, wait a few minutes, wipe it off, and for the next day or so, continue to wipe off any that weeps out of the wood, then go to a somewhat less dilute oil, repeat, and so on until the last coat is undiluted oil, and should only need a few drops and should be rubbed in evenly.  Buffing between coats (after weeping has stopped) also helps a lot.  The appearancwe will also look blotchy for the first few coats and gradually even out, but when it's all done, you're left with a buttery soft finish that looks great, shows off the woodgrain fairly well, and just looks very classy.

It is a process, and it doesn't look very good until you have several coats on, so it does take time and patience -- at least with this method, which is how I learned it and practice, though I'm sure there are other methods and products too.

The wipe-on plys are the easiest and fastest, but nothing beats a great oil finish in my book.

Sorry for not explaining this earlier.  Just google oil wood finishing and you should find lots of how-to, maybe even some closer to home that give local names for products and materials.

Also, no matter how well you sanded, I'd be very wary of trying a poly finish on woood that was previously oiled and I'd almost think it better to go back and do the oil again, or start with all new wood and a new base f you want to use poly.

I even have a spare base already made that needs a bit of touching up and a bit more poly if you want it.

Thanks,

Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #5 on: December 04, 2011, 02:08:15 AM
I have some advice nobody I know of has ever taken, buy a copy of "The Furniture Doctor" by George Grotz.  He will tell you everything you need to know about finishing and refinishing wood.



Offline deltaunit

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Reply #6 on: December 04, 2011, 04:10:12 AM
No problem, I actually asked this question to two forums and both recommend the oil finish - I think I'll just put it down as something I'm not going to be good at. I've used the danish oil previously for finishing a Teak A&R A60 Amplifier but that didn't come out to well either (a bit wet & oily and orange again but not too bad).

Luckily I'm having a practise run on an old tabletop Roberts RM50 Radio so I haven't actually attempted to work on the base of the Crack yet. The problem I had with the Crack base was that the colour just leached from the wood - you can see in the gallery it looking quite a solid dark brown and now its almost completely back to the original maple(?) colour and has broken out in rather ill looking tiny greeny black spots!

Do most oils have a slight colour to them (or alter the visible colour of the wood) or do they set clear? Looking at the drips on the side of the can the one I have looks quite coloured...



Offline Jim R.

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Reply #7 on: December 04, 2011, 04:41:25 AM
I suppose an oil based stain would have problems, but since I don't usually use stains, I don't know for sure, and don't remember if I've had that problem in the past, so yes, the stain itself could be part of the problems you are having.

As for colors, I think it would depend a lot on the oil used, but I'm blind so can't really tell anymore, though oils do tend to darken the wood.

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)


Offline Lee Hankins

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Reply #8 on: December 04, 2011, 06:01:38 AM
I now only use Tried and True wood finishes, no petroleum distillates, or other solvents, or their derivatives are added, and all Tried & True Wood Finishes are completely plant derived from sustainable agricultural resources.  These are the best finishes I have ever used.  Will never go back to commercial tung oil, or other finishing products that are petroleum or solvent based.

Cordially,
Lee Hankins



Lee Hankins
"End of the Road"
Homer, Alaska


Offline Jim R.

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Reply #9 on: December 04, 2011, 02:49:31 PM
Lee,

Thanks very much for bringing these to our attention.  I am going to give these a try on my very next project that I haven't already finished the base on.  I think I learned something very useful here today!

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)


Offline 2wo

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Reply #10 on: December 04, 2011, 06:38:57 PM
I think you should try to find some real tung oil. Very easy to use, just rub in light coats with a piece of rag, till you get the glow you want...John

John S.