Can somebody help me figure out the wiring on the Goldpoint 3p4t rotary switch?

[Jim R.]

Today I was sorting through parts and pieces prepping to build the innards of the stereomour (once the painting is complete) and I've decided to go back to my original plan and build it as an integrated with 3 inputs and a volume control.  I pulled out the goldpoint selector switch I got some time aggo and saw that it is not anything like what I was expecting in terms of connections -- just a pcb with a swiss-cheese matrix of tiny little holes, and of course I have no idea how to orient  this thing and what the pattern to the holes is, and it's a bit tight in there to really make sense of with a continuity checker.

Can somebody out there who has wired this switch give me some idea of how things are arranged so that I have a chance of wiring this correctly?

I have some time yet before I start wiring, but a switch like this may be a lot easier to wire before it is installed, so I could start on that... possibly.

The goldpoint attenuator, I have figured out no problem.

And if somebody wants extra kharma points, I also need the description of the orientation and connections on the OPTs and the PT :-).

Thanks in advance for any help,

Jim

[howardnair]

jim-i used a 2 pole but looking at the goldpoint website--it goes like this--holding the unit in your hand -looking at the back you have one wafer --so counter clockwise from 12 oclock--at 12 oclock is a screw-first position  left at lets say 11:30  is c then traveling counter clockwise 1 2 3 4 the 4 being at 9 oclock-then about 8 oclock   c  1  2 -a screw at 6 oclock --3   4  the 4 being about 5 oclockish --then  c  1  2  3  4  the c being about 4 0clock and the 1 at 3 oclock and  the 4 being about 1 oclock- -the c in each position goes to the volume control --in my stereomour i put 4 inputs you might want to consider that since they are available on the selector switch--howie

[Paul Birkeland]

Hello Jim,

For the Stereomour, did you get the four pole three throw or the three pole four throw?  (Either would work, but the four throw will have an extra position, maybe you could drill and mount a 1/8" mini jack on the front of the chassis?)

Assuming it is the four pole three throw, you will want to start by orienting the switch so that one of the two flat edges is facing you.  Starting at the top, you can feel one of the mounting screws that holds the PCB to the switch itself, working clockwise from there, you have input 3, input 2, input 1, and common.

This pattern of four repeats itself around the switch, with two complete sets on each half of the PCB.

The three pole four throw switch is a bit more difficult to describe due to symmetry issues.  I will be mulling over how to describe this switch just in case.  

-PB

[Jim R.]

Hi Howie,

Thanks, but I'm an idiot -- this is 3 positions, 4 poles, and 1 deck, should be the same as yours -- no place to wire a 4th input, which is fine as I'll only need 3 at most.

I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can make sense of your instructions -- but I think I can, just have to havee the part in hand again.

Thanks again,

Jim

[howardnair]

jim--if it is 3 poles 4 positions 1 deck thats a little different-

at 12 oclock and traveling counter clockwise-at 12 oclock a screw then first hole to the left is c 1  2  3
nothing at 9 oclock then c 1  2  3 -the 3 at about 7 oclock then a screw at 6 oclock--at 5 oclock c  1  2  3 
 nothing at 3 oclock then c  1  2  3  the last 3 at 1 oclock--
howie

[Jim R.]

Hmmm, PB, not sure why, but I'm only seeing your reply just now.

Sorry for the confusion, but it is 3 positions, 4 poles and 1 deck so I think I should be ok from here.

I didn't get a chance tostudythe switch any more today but still may be able to do that after dinner... or tomorrow.

-- Jim

[Paul Joppa]

Sorry I'm late to this thread, but I finally got out my 4p3t version (which I keep meaning to install...) All the solder pads are on the periphery of the PC board. Each common is connected to a tiny through-hole, at about half the radius of the solder pads. You can actually feel the trace, which is a straight line but not quite radial. There are silkscreened labels as well, but my finger tips seem able to distinguish the straight lines.

The switch contacts and their connection to the outer pads are all on the invisible and untouchable side of the PC board. As has been said, they are numbered anticlockwise from the common (i.e. clockwise when approached from the front of the switch).

Incidentally, on the front side there are two incredibly tiny "cheese head" screws in a ring of 24 threaded  holes, which set the stops if you want to use only 3 positions. Screw head is 0.087 inch diameter. That would be a whole other can of worms!

[debk]

I used one in my Foreplay.

each section has a number 1-3 and C.  1-3 is the input to each section C is the output.  You switch both the signal and the ground for each channel.


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[Jim R.]

Great!  Thanks PJ and Deb as well -- now I have all the information I need to tackle this monster.

Something tells me that this is just going to be the most tedious part of the entire build :-).  I plan to take it slow and easy and check things as I go -- I already know I'm definitely not going to want to do this over.

You all have been a great help!

Thanks,

Jim

[Paul Joppa]

You are right - you don't need eyes to see that the input wiring is tedious, and I don't think sight makes it much less so. When we did the prototype Stereomour, I made sure Shawn had done that part before I went over to help with the rest of the build. Any my personal Foreplay was another prototype which somebody else wired up - I think Doc B must have done that one, before Shawn was part of the team.