Volume pentometer drain wire clog up at Terminal 8L in Stereomour

Sh7eleven · 2487

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Offline Sh7eleven

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Hi - after almost a year after it came, and many many life events that led to an overdue start on construction - I finally started the stereomour and I can't wait to get it running!

Almost there but I have a question - I cannot fit all the drain wires from the volume pentometer to terminal 8L (manual pages 59-61; I have manual version 10.21.11) Earlier in the manual, it instructs that the buss wire be woven through that terminal and, at page 45, that a black insulated wire is to be attached from B9 of thr nine pin socket to terminal 8L.  Later, the pictures in the manual at page 59 show that same wire attached to Terminal 10 L instead of 8L.  So now I am left with no room to get three of the four drain wires in the hole for 8 L.

So I have two questions:

1. is attaching that black insulated wire to terminal 10L a viable alternative to 8 L? That would free up some sorely needed space for me to get a good mechanical connection for the other drain wires.

2. If there is a reason/sonic advantage to have all those connections through 8L, then should I solder together the drain wires that won't fit into 8L terminal to the one that I have managed to get through to piggy back off at drain wire to terminal 8L? (I remember from the Crack construction that the attachment of a drain or black insulated to one terminal and not another resulted in quieter operation) I am concerned that I might have trouble getting a solid mechanical connection for all the drain wires to 8L. Is this an advisable practice for drain wires?

Thanks for your consideration


Sean Hamill

music, ski, music

Stereomour
Crack
FPIII extended


Offline rlyach

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Sh7eleven,

I moved the ground buss that connects B9 to 10L. Then there is room for all the drain wires, but just barely. It helps to have the weaved bus wire that threads through 8L parallel to the chassis and not bent down. If it is left straight, All the drain wires fit. Then after you solder 8L, you can bend the bus wire down out of the way. I have only built two Stereomours, but I believe that terminal 8 is the center of the star connected ground for the circuits. The safety grounds are all at the back of the chassis. You will note that after attaching the C4S board, the ground comes up from 10U to the C4S board and then over to PS board. I don't think running the driver tube ground to 10L hurts anything. There is no current flowing through pin B9 anyway, it only sets the ground reference for the heater wire of the driver tube, acting as a center tap on the heater windings. Here is my build at that point. I used a continuous bus wire starting at B9 to 10L then 8L and finally 6L. I left insulation between B9 and 10L.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2013, 05:07:42 PM by rlyach »

Randy Yach


Offline Mike B

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I couldn't fit the last one thru either.  I just gave it a turn around the bundle and soldered it to the bundle.

Far away from the bleeding edge


Offline Paul Birkeland

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If you run out of room, you can wrap the last one or two around the bundle, just do so right at the terminal strip.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Sh7eleven

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Thanks for the suggestions - if I can do it neatly and near the terminal, I will wrap the last few around the bundle. If not i will move the black wire to terminal 10. Either way I can now keep the build moving.

Sean Hamill

music, ski, music

Stereomour
Crack
FPIII extended