crack manual instructions

Hornet900 · 5036

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Offline Hornet900

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on: March 03, 2014, 02:49:30 AM
Hi  :D I wonder If you guys could help me

I started to build my amp and have a question about the instuctions on page 18

it says on page 18 "quote"

""5. At the other end of the
twisted pair attach but do not
solder the red wire to B8L and
attach but do not solder the
black wire to B7L. ""

And On the next page 19 it says to connect the other wires to the upper B8U B7U terminals and solder them  but it doesn't say about soldering the lowers just the uppers,

Quote page 19
( ) At the first end attach and solder the red wire
to B8U, attach and solder the black wire to B7U

So my question is .......Do I  solder the lower B8L B7L at the same time I solder the upper B8U B7U connections? 
Reason is ..it looks like they are soldered in the pictures

Hope I made sense :)

I'm  enjoying building the amp

New Website looks nice ... good you kept the colours
« Last Edit: March 03, 2014, 02:54:34 AM by Hornet900 »

Austin


Offline ffivaz

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Reply #1 on: March 03, 2014, 03:13:42 AM
I would solder B7L and B8L before  8) But with the risk of filling the upper hole and having problems with the next step.

Fabien Fivaz

Thorens TD 160, Denon DL-110, Hagerman Piccolo 2, Reduction (w/ Integration), 2A3 Stereomour, Fostex FE126En in Bk12m enclosures
Halide DAC HD, Crack (w/ Speedball), Sennheiser HD 650


Offline Hornet900

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Reply #2 on: March 03, 2014, 03:29:52 AM
 :D I've already soldered the upper B8U and B7U connections :)  as it says to do on page 19. 
But no mention about soldering the lower B8L B7L when instructions say solder the upper B8U B7U 's

just  says don't solder the B8L B7L in step 5. on page 18. ..........and when it says solder the uppers no mention of the lowers

 :o

forgive me if im stupid  :P Its  just it doesn't quote the B8L and B7L when soldering the uppers  :o

 :'( 

Austin


Offline Hornet900

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Reply #3 on: March 03, 2014, 06:10:22 AM
Hello Thanks for helping
Yes but  in the instructions it says to connect the wires from the transformer to B7L and B8L connections but dont solder them,   but  when it says to solder the B7U B8U it only says them ..not the lower B7L B8L   :P ( no reference to the lowers in soldering
Just I thought there maybe other wires going into the lowers later on the build... I had a quick look at the finnish builds and also the pictures on page 19  it looks like no other wires go there ..... and on page 19  it looks like the lowers  are soldeded.

So I take it I solder the lowers now :) 

"page 18"

) Cut a 5” (125mm) piece of
the twisted pair, strip all ends
back 1/4” (6mm). Attach but
do not solder one red wire
end to power transformer
terminal 4. Attach and solder
the matching black wire end
to power transformer terminal
5. At the other end of the
twisted pair attach but do not
solder the red wire to B8L and
attach but do not solder the
black wire to B7L.

"page 19"

( ) Cut a 6” (150mm) piece of twisted pair. Strip
both wires back 1/4” (6mm) at one end.
At the other end unwind 2” (50mm) of the twist.
Trim off 1-1/2” (37mm ) of the black wire. Strip
the black wire back 1/4” (6mm). Strip the red wire
back 3/4” (19mm).
( ) At the first end attach and solder the red wire
to B8U, attach and solder the black wire to B7U.
At the uneven end route the wires under the
terminal strip behind the nine pin socket. Attach
and solder the black wire to A9. Insert the red
wire end through A5 and then A4, and solder
both A4 and A5.

no mention of the lowers to be soldered !   :o

Austin


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #4 on: March 03, 2014, 06:12:31 AM
That's so odd, I don't remember calling those out when writing the manual, but it looks like we did.

You are correct, the soldering instruction should just leave off the "U".

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Hornet900

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Reply #5 on: March 03, 2014, 06:28:33 AM
Thanks mate ..yeah it had me a little confused so I thought Id ask ...thanks!

also can anyone recommend me some shielded cable for the Rca sockets to potentiometer,
I think I burnt out one of the RCA sockets soldering them as now one of em is quite loose and spins round now....so I ordered some new Rca sockets and now looking for some cable.
I just a bit confused looking at all the different types of wires.  :o
I'm in the UK ,  anything  from ebay or www.maplins.co.uk  is good for me (the RCA I ordered are Cardas CTFA RCA socket)

I tried soldering them like the innerfidelity youtube  video.... one went ok but the other took to much heat,  I've now seen another video which adds the solder in the cup then heats it to melt then ad the wire....I'll try this method next time :)

My other soldering joints look ok tho :)  good fun I've never soldered a thing in my life!

Austin


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #6 on: March 03, 2014, 06:31:53 AM
While you're at it, you will want a 0.44" drill bit for those Cardas jacks (they are kinda large).

I would use this to wire your inputs.

You will want to connect the shield to the chassis up by the volume pot, which you can do by gently prying up one of the crimp lugs on the pot, then wrap the drain wire around it twice, then press it back down.


Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Hornet900

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Reply #7 on: March 03, 2014, 06:40:59 AM
thanks again!

I have some cat 6 wire at home called   "Brand - Rex C6U/UTP - HF1 4x2xAWG23

Would that be ok?

Thanks for the tips  ;)

Austin


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #8 on: March 03, 2014, 07:22:36 AM
The key to using CAT5 (or 6) for this application is that it is solid core and shielded.

The stranded stuff is a pain to work with, and the unshielded cable, well, isn't shielded.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Hornet900

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Reply #9 on: March 03, 2014, 03:51:19 PM
Whoohoo!!  hello again ;D

I think I'm just gonna use the normal cables now PB , That cat6 I have at home is not the shielded type

I'm having fun building this amp, My new rca sockets should arrive tomorrow so I can carry on,  I've been reading further up the manual tonight cant wait , the instruction with the red arrows help me a lot and I read the instructions 10 times before I do anything!

I've done my wiring just like the pictures taking my time ... I've seen some other ppls builds when they go to town on the wiring THAT MUST OF TOOK THE AgES!
I'm a bit OCD when I do things too lo  :o  some of them look real nice,
I'm going to  have mine looking just like the stock crack  as I like that, I degreased the bell and sanded it and came up nice and shinny, I like the brushed top plate.
Even my dad likes the look  ;)

Cheers all and its 2:51 in the morning !

Austin


Offline Hornet900

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Reply #10 on: March 05, 2014, 09:53:03 AM
I finished  building her ;D  ..... I have to wait for my multimeter to come though I Ordered one today.

Was quiet easy building the amp except those little LEDs,  I used my dads nose tweezers for them  :o and took my time, All went well I think.

Also I was missing the little Safety ground tab from the order so Eileen is sending me one...(  could I use one of the spare  RCA socket ground tabs instead? Or should I just wait?

The soldering Iron tip mcandmar recommended me was very good ...just right ...thanks mate.  And also I brought a Mullard ecc82 from ebay (this one see link)


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tube-Mullard-ecc82-Made-in-Great-Britain-/261399643731?nma=true&si=EqJ866ye341JQ4QuiWBTjO8Ghmc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Would this be ok??  It looks like in very good condition < I'll be using pair of very old HD600's

Whoopee!!  Thanks guys

Austin