Removing and refinishing bell ends

[mcandmar]

I couldn't get any thread to turn the nut on with the lock washer in place because the screw just was a tad too short, so I left it out. I assumed it was just for friction/secure connection.

I had the same issue on mine. The solution i found is to assemble without it and nip the nut/bolt up tight to settle everything. Then remove the nut/bolt again and add the locking washer back in.

[hardisondan]

I would like to say at this point that I think the manuals and this forum are amazingly good. The fact that I am getting real time responses from Doc B himself, and the esteemed community is great. As a first time builder this is very encouraging. Even though my Crack is still not working and I am tearing my hair out, I am already planning what kit to build next.

[crackaddict]

Going back to the original topic, I decided to try gun bluing, and my Birchwood Casey Super Blue arrived today. I watched a few videos online, and I'm looking forward to trying it out this weekend. Doc keeps reminding us that this will still need some clearcoat, and somewhere I've seen Doc say that he uses as Satin finish clearcoat. So that's my plan.

The only open question now is whether it makes sense to do the 100-120 degree (Farenheit?) baking once I have the clearcoat on. My problem before was that I think I had too many coats, and I did not let it cure for days before bearing down on the screws. (I did use flat washers on the outer surface of the bell end, which I thought would keep the screw head from doing any damage to the clearcoat.)

So a couple of applications of gun blue, satin clearcoat, and then into the oven at 120 degrees Farenheit for 30 minuntes?

Derek

[Doc B.]

The baking certainly won't hurt, but I find that some coatings still seem a little soft after baking until they also have several days to polymerize.

[crackaddict]

OK. Will try to give them a workweek to harden, with the satin Rusteoleum Painter's Touch clear coat.

One very last question on this: can I blue the screws as well? I presume they are stainless steel, so will that work?

Today my Reduction with Integration arrived, so I have three bell ends to treat, and three upgraded kits to build!

Thanks everyone for the inputs.

Derek

[crackaddict]

Quick update. I got the super blue and am surprised by the result. I'm not a gun owner, so the various finishes were unknown to me.

Birchwood Casey Super Blue claims to be "the most black" of their various products. On the other hand, they also say it is for a "mirror finish". When you apply it a few times, rinsing between, it sure does look black, but it looks messy and has to be polished with 4/0 steel wool, and the final result is a shiny, somewhat darker, finish.

A video tutorial I watched last night showed someone using Birchwood Casey Perma Blue, and the end result was truly black, and there was no buffing involved.

If one wants a black finish, which product is actually to be recommended?

Derek

[Doc B.]

The nickel content of the steel alloy dictates how dark the blue will get. Our bells really won't go past dark gray with the cold blues. Try building up a few coats, "carding" (polishing) in between with 0000 steel wool. Nitre blue (hot salts) might get a little darker but it's rather involved to set up.

To get a really black black will take paint, powder coat, or this -

http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/186229-its-like-staring-into-a-black-hole-worlds-darkest-material-will-be-used-to-make-very-stealthy-aircraft-better-telescopes

[crackaddict]

Ok, I'm going to have to try all over again. With 3-4 coats of Super Blue, polishing in between, I thought I had a good result last night but in the daylight the result was quite blotchy.

Today I got a full re-bluing kit, and will remove the blue, polish it all up, and try again with Perma Blue. I knew I should have just done one of the three bell ends first, but I'm too impatient to get back to soldering.

Maybe I'll look into that Vantablack if I can afford it :-)

Thanks,
Derek