amplifier switch

aragorn723 · 4953

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Offline aragorn723

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Reply #15 on: February 21, 2015, 05:18:13 PM
very nice, I like the beefy binding posts, gonna look for those when i build :)  Just got distracted with rebuilding a bike though, so the money may go there first  8)  Was it hard to figure out how to orient the switch?  (Does up/down matter??)  The thing that bugs me a little is the posts-there are so many..  If you pay $3 each, that's $36 just in posts!  (almost the cost of a chassis!)  Not that big of a deal i guess, but man!  (still cheaper than buying a niles switch).

Dave
« Last Edit: February 21, 2015, 05:26:47 PM by aragorn723 »



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #16 on: February 22, 2015, 01:42:36 AM
Very nice and tidy work.  That is quite a beefy switch. 

Did you make the box as well?



Offline borism

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Reply #17 on: February 22, 2015, 03:31:26 AM
Thanks!

Dave I don't think up/down matters regarding the switch. What really helped me was the Audiokarma picture of the connections regarding amplifier A/B and speaker connections.

Grainger, I don't have the skills to build a box like this. I got it inexpensively on eBay.

Boris

Boris


Offline Loggie

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Reply #18 on: February 22, 2015, 03:58:24 AM
I have the same problem as the TS, two amps and one set of speakers.
Untill now I have been switching speaker cables when I wanted to listen to the other amp.
Having read about these 4PDT switches it seems like a great solution.....so thank you for starting a topic like this  :)
These switches come in on/on and on/off/on (or on/none/on) variations.....might be opting for the ones with an off position to avoid possible contact problems during switching.
On to Ebay now for some switch shopping :-)

Arno

Bottlehead Crack--Lenco L76-Thorens TD147--Cyrus IIIi+PSX-R--KEF Q7--Klipsch R-26F--Marantz CD72 SE--Philips CD202--Musical Fidelity XLPS V3--CNC Phono Stage


Offline aragorn723

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Reply #19 on: February 22, 2015, 04:56:18 AM
Thanks!

Dave I don't think up/down matters regarding the switch. What really helped me was the Audiokarma picture of the connections regarding amplifier A/B and speaker connections.

Grainger, I don't have the skills to build a box like this. I got it inexpensively on eBay.

Boris

So the contacts on the top of the switch correspond to the upper switch position?  I want the upper position to be the "music" position, and lower would be HT.  Thanks,

Dave



Offline borism

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Reply #20 on: February 22, 2015, 05:02:00 AM
Dave, that's what I thought, that the up position of the switch I got corresponds to the upper contacts. However, it is the exact opposite. When the switch is up the lowest contacts are ON.

Boris

Boris


Offline jake111

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Reply #21 on: February 22, 2015, 11:20:22 AM
I had to rewire mine because I just assumed the signal would go the direction the switch pointed. I like the switch moving horizontally so so it points to the amp I want to use.
Another nice thing about using this switch is you can avoid any amp power up noise by selecting the amp last.
Jess   



Offline Loggie

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Reply #22 on: March 06, 2015, 06:01:48 AM
Inspired by this thread (because I was also having the problem of having one pair of speakers and two amps) I decided to make an amp-switch-box.

The switch is a sturdy looking switch from ALCO with an off position:
http://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/A4TP15W04/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugHEG%2f%252b4xonx%2fAKU5HZw%252bS5JJ5sbaWD1yU%3d

Used 12 long binding posts and a generic aluminum casing.
The back looks a bit crowded and its a tight fit for the binding posts.

Its working really well.
It did take up a lot of solder though  :)

The final thing left to be done is to make some sort of identification on the switch.

Here are some pics:







« Last Edit: March 06, 2015, 06:12:32 AM by Loggie »

Arno

Bottlehead Crack--Lenco L76-Thorens TD147--Cyrus IIIi+PSX-R--KEF Q7--Klipsch R-26F--Marantz CD72 SE--Philips CD202--Musical Fidelity XLPS V3--CNC Phono Stage


Offline borism

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Reply #23 on: March 06, 2015, 02:51:52 PM
Nice work! I like the aluminum case.

Boris


Offline Loggie

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Reply #24 on: March 07, 2015, 02:13:58 AM
Thanks Boris,

I used a casing from Conrad:
https://www.conrad.nl/nl/proma-130044-universele-behuizing-165-x-110-x-80-aluminium-aluminium-522953.html

It wasn't too expensive and the size was perfect.
At first I wanted to make a nice wooden casing but decided to go for this one.

After looking at the pics I should have used shrink sleeves (not sure abaut the technical term) on the switch and binding posts to hide the solder :-)




« Last Edit: March 08, 2015, 03:45:09 AM by Loggie »

Arno

Bottlehead Crack--Lenco L76-Thorens TD147--Cyrus IIIi+PSX-R--KEF Q7--Klipsch R-26F--Marantz CD72 SE--Philips CD202--Musical Fidelity XLPS V3--CNC Phono Stage